Tug Forum

Specialist Types Of Tug Boat => Ocean Going Tugs => : Mark Yurkovic January 22, 2013, 18:38:41

: OMG what have I done
: Mark Yurkovic January 22, 2013, 18:38:41
Just started my Billing's Smit Rotterdam........First question....do you seal the decks so that it causes strength for the planking, or leave them open for easier access when installing the RC gear?   Here's a dumb one......what stops the water from coming up the propellor shaft?  Bought 600 motors 7.2V......Don't even know if that's right for the electronics......AAAAAAAAAAARRRRGGGGGG     HELP!!!
: Re: OMG what have I done
: 2tugboats January 22, 2013, 19:23:53
So, you begin the build, Mark. You will be a master when you have
completed your tugboat adventure. I'm going to watch the answers
you receive so I can learn some ideas too.

The Forum is going to be down for a few days for a huge update so
your answers will be fourth coming.

I hope the very best for you,
Michael in Anacortes, Washington
: Re: OMG what have I done
: west coast tug January 23, 2013, 20:26:07
For the stuffing box I use a grease from Mercury marine motors called
2-4-C with Teflon comes in a standard tube 50 mm X 250 mm for about $12.00 Canadian
It's water resistant .Use a syringe to put it in the shaft .
As for the deck a bit of though would have been better .
I usually set up every thing first then put the deck in , You can do openings up over the critical parts- servos at the rudder.
You would not be the first to do this .
Creating the seal to hide or cover is a bit tricky , Put a hatch way or a deck cover over the hole so you can get back in later .
The trick is to put the sealant on one part only vasline grease the other a small amount . this will make it come off when required later.
Do this after the deck is finished or painted.
Did you get the plastic hull or the glass hull?
: Re: OMG what have I done
: 2tugboats January 27, 2013, 17:44:21
Well Mark,

I did some surfing on the Internet and checked out the "Billing's Smit
Rotterdam". You chose a beauty indeed. I hope to build a rig supplier/
anchor handler/tug, next year.

Thank you West Coast Tug for the information. Got me to thinking.

I had the same though to put something like grease on the shaft.
But I feared contaminating the water. Down the street, near here,
the model sailboaters, sail on the week ends. I don't know how my
tugboat will be accpted around the docks there, but I'm pretty sure
that the first time I leave an oil slick, I'll get the ol'one-two.

Thank you West Coast Tug for the "Mercury 2-4-C" tip. Water resistant
sounds like the best bet for using around the lake or pond "oil sheen" wise.

For installing my decks and all, I also try to install everything I can
first and then seal the decks. I build in a large scale so I use wood
screws through out which allows me to take it apart several times
to fit my running grear and all accessories. My last step is to "button'
it all up when everything is in.

And, like West Coast Tug suggest, I made hatch ways. I hadn't thought
about the "Sealant on one part and Vaseline on the other" trick. I can
see it working out perfectly. The only time I have used Vaseline in my
life was to put in on the door knob a few times to keep the kids out. . .

You asked about a plastic or glass hull, West Coast Tug. Is one
perferable to the other. Now that you mention this, I really want to
know. I'm always looking for the perfect hull material for one of my

So, there you are Mark and thank you for the super input West Coast

Michael in Anaortes, Washington
: Re: OMG what have I done
: sea monkey January 29, 2013, 14:22:34
Mark, I've done this before too. You don't usually need to have the whole deck removable. Once the motor, shaft, etc are installed I use the area outlined by the superstructure as access. I put a coaming/lip around the access hole in the deck so that the superstructure sits snuggly. The coaming will stop any water. The hole only needs to be big enough to get your hand in to adjust anything or put the batteries in.
If you have already installed the deck, don't worry about cutting a hole in it –that's what  filler is for. My boats are 50% filler. I usually have to do most things twice – second time being the right way.
This photo I found on the internet shows how someone has done it on their Rotterdam.
I use grease in shafts and I've never had any slicks on the water. Grease is pretty viscous so it won't flow or leak.
Good luck and if you have any questions, just ask, that's what the forum is for. And don't forget to post some photos of your progress.
: Re: OMG what have I done
: west coast tug January 29, 2013, 21:01:05
Fiberglass hulls will last longer over the years of running , Plastic is sunlight hardening and will give up after 10 or 15 years , Some fellow like the ABS or styrene hulls because of cost they tend to be cheaper , A vacuum former can make about 25 hull's an hour . Glass takes about a day to cure in the mold at 60 degrees .
Glass has different problems regarding glue what type to use. But any thing that will stick to a car body will work on glass.
Epoxies should not be stuck to glass or polystyrene some people call it .
they will after some time onion skin away from the glass hull.
: Re: OMG what have I done
: russellward January 29, 2013, 22:12:21
I've always bought tail shafts in but always made up a little admiralty type stuffing box and used CA to stick it on. Used to use proper gland material in miniature but relented and use a couple of O rings.
With regards to the OMG WTFHID feeling. That is common. I usually get it at about 2 am and wake up in a cold sweat.
I think that, with all the good advice you are getting, you won't go far wrong.
And anyway, there is nothing like a right royal stuffup as a learning path! You're in good company: We've all had a phew.
Y'see life comes to you as a series of lessons. You learn and then move on to the next one. If you don't learn, you gonna repeat the lesson until you do get it! (Crusty's view of life)