Tug Forum

Specialist Types Of Tug Boat => Barges & Other Non-Tug Vessels => : Tiny69 March 23, 2013, 01:17:20

: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 March 23, 2013, 01:17:20
After spending a few days aboard the vessel sailing around the Western Isles of Scotland during my summer break in August I have decided to build a model of this little ship. Now in preservation and based at Crinan in Scotland this little ship now works giving pleasure trips to paying passengers.

Brief History

The vessel is 66' 4" long. 18' beam. 8' 6" draft at the stern and 4' at the bow. She weighs approximately 160 tons displacement dead-weight. The engine was built in 1943 by Crabtrees of Great Yarmouth. It is a compound steam engine developing 120 horse power. The 'VIC 32' was built by Dunston's of Thorne, Yorkshire in November 1943. This was a busy time for the Clyde Ship building yards and the Admiralty needed 50, victualling boats in a hurry. So they were built in groups of 3 by various different yards in England. 'VIC 32' worked out of Corpach at some time during the war, taking ammunition from barges moored at the head of Loch Eil and supplying the Atlantic fleet with victuals at the Saint Christopher's Base at Corpach. Also worked as a day boat in Rosyth Naval Dockyard after the war until she was sent over to White's of Inverkeithing to be scrapped in the 60's. VIC 32 spent many years in Whitby until it was bought by Nick Walker in 1975. The hold was converted to give a 6ft headroom for the cabins and a floor fitted for the saloon and galley area above by raising the height of the cargo hatch by 2ft. Since 1979 the vessel has been taking fare paying passengers on various trips around the Scottish coastline ranging from Glasgow to Inverness.

The model I am planning to build will be 1/24 scale, 33" (850mm) long, 9" (229mm) beam with electric power. The hull will be of traditional plank on frame construction with a modern twist. More on that later. I was able to purchase a General Arrangement drawing of the ship from the Nick Walker whilst on board but these drawings had no frame sections information. After a bit of research I found a set of drawings for VIC 32 with the hull sections available from Traplet, who produce Marine Modelling International magazine. The plans where featured in the August 1993 edition of the magazine and I obtained a copy from my Dad, ARH, after searching through his extensive collection of boating magazines.

For those that are interested I have written about the journey and produced some videos of the trip at the link shown below which gives a good idea of the mini adventure I had on board.

https://sites.google.com/site/tinytravelstheworld/Home/trip-11-vic-32 (https://sites.google.com/site/tinytravelstheworld/Home/trip-11-vic-32)

I mentioned that I purchased a copy of the GA drawing that was on display aboard the puffer and a couple of weeks after arriving back from our holiday a large tube arrived in the post containing a copy of the GA with a note with kind regards from the Puffer Preservation Trust.  The drawing shows a side view with interior details and plan view with the deck equipment, but no hull frame sections.

: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 March 23, 2013, 01:24:31
After a bit of research I obtained a set of model plans of a typical VIC design produced by P.N. Thomas in 1990 for Marine Modelling International, which featured in the August 1993 edition. I was able find a copy of the magazine amongst the Admirals extensive collection of model boat magazines stored in his workshop. The plans consist of two sheets, the first detailing the side view and deck plan.  The second sheet shows the hull lines and sections required to construct the hull so I now had enough information to make a start.  I now spent some time studying the drawings and magazine thinking of how I was going to build the hull. Eventually I decided to use the plank on frame technique but wanted to try something different to produce the keel and frame sections.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 March 23, 2013, 01:32:51
Whilst thinking of how to construct the plank on frame hull I began reading an article in the Model Boats Special on materials and techniques about the kit produced by SLEC UK with its CNC cut out frames and keel. This gave me the idea of producing the keel and frames section on a CAD program and having them cut out by a CNC machine also. First I had to find a CAD program that I could use with ease but didn't cost the earth like AutoCAD does. I have been using AutoCAD for may years in my job. Eventually after some research on the internet I found a program called ProgeCAD which was on offer for free that claimed to work and have the same commands as AutoCAD. It was worth a try and after installing it I found it worked just like AutoCAD as claimed.

Stage 1
I had the plans scanned to produce a PDF format file that I could easily copy and paste into the CAD program. The scanned image was then placed on a layer created in ProgeCAD, scaled to the required dimensions of 850mm long and locked. Next a second layer named 'keel' was created, like placing a piece of tracing paper over the top, so that I could trace the hull and frames sections to produce an electronic file a CNC machine can follow.

Stage 2
Once the lines had been traced out I seperated out each section and drew up each frame and the keel including the cut outs and half butt joints. Each frame was numbered and the corresponding reference applied to the keel.  After a bit of playing around and adjustments I was happy with the drawn out shapes and that they would interlock together at 90 degrees when assembled.

: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 March 23, 2013, 01:35:31
Stage 3
Now I had to lay out all the pieces to give me the most economical use of material and eventually produced a drawing with all the pieces laid out. Now I had to find someone to cut out the pieces for me. After some more looking on the net and some very expensive quotes I eventually went back to the Model Boats Special to see if SLEC UK had an advert. In the back I found their email address and forwarded on the drawing file in DXF format and asked for a quote for the parts to be cut from 3mm thick plywood.   A few days later I received a reply at a reasonable price and gave them permission to get on with the work. Now I just had to wait a couple of weeks to see if my designs worked.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 March 23, 2013, 01:43:01
The moment of expectation soon arrived in a large parcel containing the various parts. I carefully opened it up to reveal the keel and hull sections all laid out on a piece of thin plywood held in place with elastic bands.  Taking care I removed the elastic bands and separated out the sections from the keel.  I examined each item and was pleased with the accuracy of the cutting.  Next I wanted to see if the sections fitted into the keel so I quickly slotted each on in place giving the basic hull shape in a matter of minutes. All the CAD design had paid off.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: 2tugboats March 23, 2013, 03:10:31
Hello Tiny69. . .thank you very much for sharing your successful adventure of creating
a handsome "VIC32 - Steam Lighter". You explained the steps from start to finish so
others can create their tugboat design. Thank you for the "ProgeCAD" program tip.

The account of your ship's history brought back many memories of the War's North Seas accounts.
I can see the well designed VIC32 plowing through the night time sea packing tons of cargo
to somewhere.

I'm having a bit of a time designing my own design. I have taken a sort of "dive in head
first and swim or fail". Fortunately I have a lot of friends that share ideas. And, you
make it sound so easy. . .well done indeed.

Again, thank you Tiny69 for the gourmet food for though that I was quite hungry for.

Michael in Anacortes, Washington
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 March 24, 2013, 00:22:55
Now I had the keel and frame sections I needed to construct a solid work board to start the build up of the hull. I purchased a piece of 12mm (1/2") thick chipboard measuring 1220mm (4ft) x 605mm (2ft) and cut it down the centre and glued and screwed the two pieces together, giving me a 24mm (1") thick base board to work on.

I marked the centre line of the keel on the base board and constructed two upright supports to position the keel perfectly vertical. The keel was clamped in place at the bow and stern.

Next I placed a straight piece of wood along one side of the keel and pinned it in place to hold the keel straight. Then I glued small blocks of wood along the other side of the keel between the frame locations. Then I removed the first piece of wood and glued more small blocks of wood on the otherside to hold the keel straight along the centreline.

Starting from the stern I now glued the hull frames in place ensuring each one was square to the keel.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 March 24, 2013, 00:28:00
The next phase of construction was to stiffen up the whole structure so I proceeded by cutting blocks of wood and gluing them to the stern and bow frames. Next I started to glue blocks between the frames along the base of the frames slowly working forward towards the bow.

Each block was carefully measured and cut on a circular bench saw and then glued in place and clamped to let the PVA glue set.

Eventually all the blocks required to give a strong basis for planking the hull was completed.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 March 24, 2013, 00:33:30
I could now start to skin the hull frames with 1mm thick lime wood, but first I clamped the hull in an upturned position on the building jig so I could begin from the keel and work towards the deck. The first piece was cut to length to fit between frames 2 and 8 and positioned in place along the keel.

The 100mm wide strip was glued and pinned in place along the flat sections of the keel and left to allow the glue to set. Then I glued the piece around the curves of frames 2 to 8.

This was then repeated on the opposite side of the keel in the same manner.

Thats it for now, but I will be starting to plank the bow section next.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Model Tug Man March 25, 2013, 06:01:17

Thoroughly enjoyed your TID build and am looking forward to more on the VIC build now. Looks like you are off to a great start and quite informative as well. Good luck with the project.

 cool cool
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 March 26, 2013, 08:15:47
Using my table disc saw I cut the 1mm thick lime sheet into 10mm wide planks and starting at the keel proceeded to glue and pin the planks in place.  Methodically working on each side and tapering some planks at one end to ease positioning and curvature around the bow.  This was a time consuming task because I was only able to attach two or three planks at a time to allow the glue to set before moving on.  Once they had all set I removed the pins and trimmed the excess back to the first bow frame.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 March 26, 2013, 08:20:27
Using the same technique I used for the bow the lower half of the stern section was planked.  Again a time consuming job.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: tugs53 March 26, 2013, 18:52:53
Very nice work there Tiny :)
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 March 27, 2013, 23:21:32
I have done a little more work on the hull by working on the sides. With its flat sides it was only a matter of measuring and cutting the sheet of lime to length. First I started by attaching the sheet amidships along the flat section and leaving it for the glue to set.  Now I could start to glue the sheet around the curved bow to meet up the the already planked section, one frame at a time before trimming back to the first bow frame.  The hull was then turned around in the jig and repeated on the other side in the same manner working from amidships towards the bow.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 March 28, 2013, 04:54:44
Here are some videos of the time I spent on board VIC 32 last summer.

From Crinan to Ardmaddy

From Arduaine to Crinan

From Crinan to Tayvallich

From Tayvallich to Jura

Bon Voyage

I hope you enjoy watching them as much as
I did making them.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Norry M March 28, 2013, 15:19:05
...Hi Tiny 69...
I am currently building a model of Vic 27 or AULD REEKIE as she was when used to film the series of The Tales Of Para Handy...
I bought my puffer part built from an old club member...

Here is a picture of VITAL SPARK as she currently is...

...Best Regards...Norry...
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 March 29, 2013, 04:20:56
The next step was to skin the upper stern using a sheet of 0.5mm thick lime, starting at the keel end and working forward towards frame 3 which is the last one of the raised deck. The thin sheet was easily bent in to position forming the curve of the stern.

Now I could start to work on the section between the planks and stern section I had just completed. This time using a piece of 1mm thick lime I placed the sheet on the outside of the hull and using a pencil marked the required shape from inside of the hull. Then I cut out the marked up wood with a sharp craft knife leaving about 2mm all round to allow for trimming and slight adjustments.

After some fiddling around and trimming the piece of wood was finally ready to glue into place. This was repeated for the other side and also glued in place.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 March 29, 2013, 23:54:37
After completing the planking of the bilges on both sides of the hull I have moved onto the upper sections working on the deck support beams for both decks to allow the planking to be trimmed back to the deck level. I first cut a piece of 25mm x 6mm wood into 6mm wide strips on the circular saw. The strip was then cut into individual lengths that fit between the frame sections and glued and clamped in place with white PVA wood glue.

Around the curved sections the 6mm thick strips where cut on the backside to a depth of 3 mm at 5mm intervals to allow them to be bent more easily.

Around the stern I glued a 6mm x 1mm strip cut from some of the limewood sheet and will laminate more strips on top when the first has set in place, to build up the thickness to 3mm to give a good edge to glue the deck in pace at a later stage.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 March 29, 2013, 23:58:16
I have put together a short video showing the construction of the hull which contains more photographs of the build.

: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Model Tug Man April 02, 2013, 03:58:10
Nice video, Tiny. I sure am learning a lot about hull construction. I may give it a try in the future sometime. Thanks for posting.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 April 04, 2013, 09:46:21
I had the opportunity to get outside to fibre glass the inside of the hull to give it some added strength. Cutting the fibre glass matt to size each compartment was lined ready for the resin mix to be poured in and worked into the matt.

Mixing 50ml of resin with a small amount of hardner I worked along one side of the hull, starting at the bow and continuing towards the stern filling each compartment.

Once the first side was complete I continued on the other until all the compartments had been filled with resin.  I left the hull overnight in the garage to totally harden, because of the fumes the resin gives off.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: 2tugboats April 04, 2013, 17:04:01
Excellent Tiny69,

Thank you for sharing your build. The video is, for myself and thousands of other tugboat
builders, a God sent. I know that even though I have planked a few hulls, I always dive
into the beginning hoping that I had made my plan of attack workable to success. Your video
shows a smooth progression to a fine hull.

Now I have to learn how to make a video. You have inspired me to do so. Sharing is where
it's at in our Tugboat Forum site here.

: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 April 07, 2013, 01:30:55
I use a program called Power Director 8 to make all my videos.  It handles both video and still photos very well.  I have been using it for about five years, mainly for my holiday trips, but know I have been using it to make my modelling videos.


: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 April 07, 2013, 01:42:47
After leaving the hull in the garage overnight I noticed that some of the resin had dripped through the small gaps in the planking.  Now I could start sanding back the wooden planking on the outside of the hull smoothing out all the joints and ridges, even sometimes sanded through to the resin.  I will continue to work on the outside untill I have a totally smooth finish ready for the next stage in the build.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 April 08, 2013, 08:58:43
To finish off the basic hull I now had to work on the bow and stern sections. Using some scraps of 6mm thick balsa sheet I cut some basic shapes and stacked them on top of each other. Next I mixed some fibre glass paste and applied it over the balsawood. When it had hardened off I was able to sand the stern section to shape as required.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 April 09, 2013, 11:14:26
The bow section was tackled in a similiar way using balsawood and filler paste.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 April 11, 2013, 10:50:08
With the basic hull shape complete it is time to make the rudder and skeg. First of all I drew out the required shapes on my computer and printed them out. I decided to make a cardboard template to ensure the skeg would fit onto the hull before I started to construct the actual item from brass.

Once I was happy the skeg template was correct I started to cut it out from 1.6mm thick brass sheet. Firstly the paper print was spray mounted onto the brass and I then started to cut and file the outside edge of the skeg, checking it against the hull at regular intervals.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 April 11, 2013, 10:54:41
I then started to work on the internal section by drilling holes and then cutting out most of the excess material and finally filing it to the shape required for the prop to fit.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 April 11, 2013, 11:00:01
With the basic skeg shape complete next I started work on the rudder section by making the hinge plates and soldering them in place using a simple wooden jig to hold all the parts in place.

Then I made the hinge plate for the skeg and set these up in another wooden jig to allow me to solder those parts togther using a 40W electric iron.

Lastly I made the rudder blade from a piece of 1.6mm thick brass sheet and soldered that to the rudder post previously constructed.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 April 12, 2013, 23:44:38
The next step was to form the keel around the bow of the vessel. Using a print of the bow as a template I constructed a simple jig out of plywood to form the curve of the bow, which I would use to bend the flat 5mm x 2mm brass strip around. I marked the section on the brass and cut twelve 2.5mm deep slots to aid with the bending process.

To help me bend it I needed to warm up the brass so I popped it into the oven on gas mark 8 for 15 minutes. I put on some thick work gloves and lifted the heated brass out of the oven and placed it in the former and gently started to bend it around the plywood former. By sawing the slots into the brass first this relieved the stress and it worked very well and I ended up with a perfect curved keel.

The bow keel was glued in place with two part exopy and held vertically in place with masking tape. I then glued the straight length of 5mm x 2mm brass along the entire length of the hull finishing off with the rudder skeg in the same manner.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 April 15, 2013, 11:25:51
I have complied another short video showing the second stage of building the hull

: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 April 18, 2013, 11:03:18
The next stage of the hull construction will involve plating the outside. Using the information on the shell plating drawing I obtained from the University of Glasgow I started to draw out the plating lines onto the hull. First I marked the frame locations along the keel and numbered them from 0 through to 38. These can be seen in the photo below.

Starting with the Garboard Strake (A) nearest the keel I marked the widths and lengths of each plate and numbered them 1 to 8. The row of plates (A) and (C) are indicated as 'IN' on the drawing meaning that row (B) indicated as 'OUT' will overlap them both along each edge.

With rows (A) (B) & (C) marked out I decided to start cutting the plates for row (A) from white 240gsm cardboard. These plates are joggled either side of the keel and are butt jointed rather than overlapped. Using a mix of 50/50 white PVA glue and water giving creamy consistancy I glued the first two plates (A5) and (A6) in place.

I continued along both sides of the keel until all of row (A) was completed.  These were let to dry for a number of hours. The white PVA mix gives a smooth finish to each plate and protects the cardboard.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Model Tug Man April 19, 2013, 11:04:15
Looking good, Tiny.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 April 20, 2013, 07:45:05
Now I am going to work on row (C) of the hull plating. Using some tracing paper the outline of each of the plates was drawn out and transfered to the white cardboard.

With all the plates cut out for both sides I mixed some white PVA glue with water and started to apply plate number 1 at the stern. The glue was applied to the hull and then some to the back of the plate and placed in position. Then I applied some glue to the outside surface to soften up the cardboard to mould the plate to shape of the hull.

Working from the stern I glued each plate in place, one at a time, port side first followed by the starboard before moving onto the next.  Each of these plate are overlapped with the previous one as indicated on the shell expansion drawing. This can be clearly seen in the second photo.  All eight plates for row (C) are now in place so I can start to work on row (B) which over laps both (A) and (C).
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 April 24, 2013, 07:40:02
I started working on row (B) by cutting the eight plates for each side from the white cardboard I have been using and then starting at the stern, glued them in place.

These plates over lap rows (A) and (C) by about 2mm.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 May 05, 2013, 10:15:31
I have been working on the next row of plates, (G) around the stern. These plates extend above the raised deck so I have choosen to use 0.4mm thick brass sheet. The reason for this is strength and the handrails attach to the extended section above the deck. The first task was to make some card templates to the correct shapes that could be used to mark out the brass sheet.

The first plate (G1) was marked out on the brass using the template and cut out with some sharp scissors and sanded to take away the sharp edges. This plate needed bending to curve around the stern so I placed it on the back of a foam mouse mat and with a piece of 45mm diameter copper tubing, gently rolled it over the plate applying downward pressure to bend it. Once I was happy the plate was the correct shape I roughed up the back face with sand paper and glued it in place using two part epoxy resin and held in place with clamps and masking tape whilst the glue set.

The proceedure was repeated for plates (G2) to (G4) for both sides of the hull.  Plate (G4) is the first plate of the bulwarks so I had to cut out the wash port before gluing them in place.  Each of the plates was over lapped by 4mm as indicated on the shell plate drawing.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 May 13, 2013, 08:01:14
Update No. 29 13/05/2013

The plating of the hull has been continuing with row (F) which over lap the bottom edge of row (G).  Starting at the stern each plate has been cut from the 0.4mm thick brass sheet and glued in place.  I used some lead blocks to weigh down the plates whilst the two part epoxy glue set.  Any excess epoxy glue can be quickly sanded off the brass.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 May 18, 2013, 11:51:07
Update No. 30 18/05/2013

More work continuing on the next row of plates, (E). A change of material and back to the cardboard which is a little quicker to produce but using the same method of tracing each plate from the hull and transferring it to the cardboard. Also there is an added complication of the stern knuckle which the top edge of the plate bends around. The plates where cut with additional material to allow them to bend around the knuckle and then trimmed back later.  That just leaves row (D) to complete the plating of the hull.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 May 27, 2013, 05:40:50
Update No. 31 27/05/2013

This week I have been working on Row (D) of the plating. These plates are the last made from cardboard and over lap both rows (C) and (E.)  As usual I started at the stern tracing out each plate, cutting it out and gluing them in place one at a time.  Plate D7 has an unusual shape which allows for the protective belting below the waterline to be fixed in position. Another good reason to obtain the shell expansion drawing, because without it I would not have known about this detail.  The final plate D9 was positioned with a small overhang which can be trimmed back when the glue is totally dry. Now I can complete the final row (G) the bulwarks.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 May 31, 2013, 08:54:31
Update No. 32 31/05/2013

I have been working on the final row of plating, row (G) or more commonly known as the bulwarks. Starting with plate (G5) I marked and cut out the shape from cardboard to ensure the correct shape was obtained before starting to cut it out of the brass sheet. Next I covered the surface of the brass sheet with a strip of masking tape and using the card template I drew around it.  The plate was cut out, sanded to shape to remove the sharp edges and then I removed the masking tape and sanded the outside face smooth. It was then glued in place with two part epoxy.  Plate (G6) and (G7) have a washport in each so once I had cut the plate to shape I cut out the wash port hole using a small drill and then filling each to shape.  The last photo shows plates (G8) and (G9) glued and clamped while everything sets.

Thats all for now. Off on holiday for a week. Hopefully I will be able to rendezvous with the VIC 32 while I'm away.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 June 15, 2013, 10:33:28
Update No. 32  15/06/2013

I have put together another video showing all the hull plating on the hull now it is complete.

: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 June 23, 2013, 07:56:39
Update No. 33 23/06/13

With the plating now complete the next stage is to add all the exterior detail to the hull. I decided to start with the three rows of protective belting that runs down the side of the ship. From the shell plate drawing I marked the positions with a pencil. I then cut 150 long x 8mm wide strips of 40 thou thick plasticard and glued them in place with thick cyano.

The bottom row runs at an angle from the bow to half way up row E of the plating through the top of plate D7.

With the belting attached I moved onto the top of the bulwarks and added the edging using a 2mm half round section of styrene strip, again glued in place with cyano.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 June 23, 2013, 08:02:24
Update No. 33 continued 23/06/13

The washport support bars are cut from 1.5mm diameter brass rod and glued in place along the centreline of the vertical side of the opening. Along each side of the hull are three scupper tubes below the open washports. Firstly I marked out the locations and the drilled out the holes in the hull and deck.

Next I inserted a 3/16 diameter brass tube which was glued in place with two part epoxy. When the glued had totally set I filed each one flush to the hull and deck.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 June 25, 2013, 11:58:15
Update No. 34 25/06/13

Continuing on with the hull detailing I started to work on the stern deck by covering it with 20 thou thick plasticard. First I cut a template from cardboard to get the curved shape of the edge of the deck before transferring to the plastic sheet. The deck is in two halves cut down the centre line due to the sheets not being quite wide enough to cover the whole deck. The two pieces were glued to the plywood with a thin layer of cyano. With the deck in place I then glued a 2.5mm plastic angle between the deck and raised edge.

I repeated the process for the bow deck, first cutting a template and cutting out each half and gluing with Cyano.

With the plastic deck in place I then cut out the scupper tube holes with a 3.5mm diameter drill and filed to shape with a round file. The next stage I fitted the angle plate between the deck and bulwark using a 4mm angle styrene strip cut into 100mm lengths.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 June 25, 2013, 12:01:48
Update No. 34 continued 25/06/13

To finish of the bulwarks I added the capping rail using a 3mm styrene angle positioned 1mm from the top edge and finished of with a 6mm wide strip of plastic glued on top.

The final photo shows the capping rail complete on one side and half complete on the other, due to the fact I ran out of 3mm angle and needed to get some more.

To allow the 6mm wide strip to bend around the shape of the bow I cut 3mm deep slots every 10mm along its length to aid with the bending. Once in place I filled the slots and sanded it flat.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Model Tug Man June 27, 2013, 10:17:49
Brilliant work Tiny. Very impressive.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 June 30, 2013, 10:01:16
Cheers Model Tug Man

Update 35 30/6/13

A little more work on the hull detailing, with the making of engine room exit tubes at the stern. Firstly I cut a piece of 10 thou thick plasticard to form the plate. Two of the tubes are made from 3/16 OD brass and the larger one from a 9mm diameter porthole with a 7mm OD brass tube inserted to form the second rim. The hull was marked out and drilled and the tubes inserted in place.

Next I decided to complete the top of the bows bulwalks. Using the same techniques I described for cutting out the brass plating by first making a card template and placing it on the brass sheet covered in masking tape, I drew around each template, cut them out and sanded to the final shape, each of the six sections.

Each section was glued in place and a 2.5mm styrene angle strip glued on the back edge to add strength to the joint. Each of the sections line up with the row of plates below.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 July 29, 2013, 11:11:48
Update No. 36 29/7/2013

The next stage of construction I started to work on the cargo hatch by measuring out the hatch coaming and cutting four lengths of 6 x 10mm pine wood strip, gluing them in place to the marked out lines. With the glue set I trimmed back the deck to the inside of the coaming to give the maximum size hole for internal access.

The hatch sides were marked out onto 2mm thick plywood sheet and cut out with a sharp craft knife. The four sides were glued together with 3mm square sections in each corner to strengthen the joint.

To ensure that each joint was square I used a engineer's set square clamped in place while the joint set.

The plywood hatch sub structure was then skinned with 1mm thick plastic sheet on all four sides with a slight over hang which was sanded back to the edges of the plywood.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 August 04, 2013, 10:09:56
Update No. 37 4/8/2013

Following on from last time I have continued to work on the main hatch and its conversion to the boats saloon deck. Using Evergreen styrene strips I have added the surface details on the hatch sides and then moved onto the deck boards. First the centre support rail was fitted before proceeding to make each of the planks. These where cut from 2mm thick plywood to form the base as they will not be seen on the completed model. They will be covered with a taupaulin.

With the basic planking completed I started to make the door and small sliding hatch that allows access to the inside of the full size vessel. The basis of the door was cut from 1mm thick styrene sheet and strip of styrene added around the edges. The hatch cover was also made from styrene with two curved ends with a curved top added.

The hatch was then positioned on the hull and 2mm styrene angle glued to the bottom edge flowing the curve of the deck. To ensure the plastic cement didn't get on the deck I placed a thin piece of paper between the hatch and deck to act as a barrier.

I have also began work on the first section of the stern superstructure which is all made from 1mm thick styrene sheet with 3mm square bracing along all the inside edges. It's a very simple box with the top deck slightly peaked along the centre line.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Model Tug Man August 05, 2013, 11:35:31
Nice work, Tiny. Really like the detail you put into your boats.

: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 August 18, 2013, 06:22:07
Update No. 38 18/08/2013

Since starting this project I have been trying new modelling techniques to improve my overall standard of modelling. From the onset I had decided to have a go at designing my own parts to have photo etched. I attend the regular meetings of the Model Ship Society and was given some tips on setting up the artwork and were to have the etch produced. Over the past months I have been drawing up in the CAD program the various parts I wanted to try and have etched. Using the information found on the website (http://www.ppdltd.com/DG_How_2_draw.html (http://www.ppdltd.com/DG_How_2_draw.html)) following the layer convention I set up a sheet of A4 sized artwork.

I sent the artwork away to PPD Ltd and the finished etch was sent to me within a week. Upon inspection I was quite pleased with the results. The sheet is 0.9mm thick with half etch detail of 0.45mm thick.

The sheet contains etching for the coal scuttle, handrails, window frames, decklights, bollards, ladders, brackets and various sizes of flanges.

I will no doubt be designing more items to have etched to include on this project.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 August 24, 2013, 22:46:35
Update 39 25/8/2013

Coal Scuttles

The coal scuttles on the stern deck I had etched in five parts, three make up the cover and two the outer rim. I glued together the three cover parts and then placed the outer rim on the deck to mark out its position and size of hole required in the deck.

The two parts that form the rim where glued together and the hole drilled and enlarged with a circular sanding bit in a hand drill to position it on the deck.

Once in position I cut off the heads of six small pins and placed them on the hole around the circumference of the rim. The cover is just placed into the rim plate.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 August 24, 2013, 22:50:12
Update 39 Continued


I also had four sets of bollard plates and tops etched with 7mm diameter rings to locate the bollard tubes I cut from 8mm diameter brass tubes.

First I placed the tubes on the top pieces and dropped a smal piece of solder into the tube and heated it with a 40W soldering iron until the solder melted. I repeated the process for the second tube. Then I placed another piece of solder into the two tubes and positioned them on top of the base plate and heated that up until the solder melted around the base of each tube.

Finally I added two stubbs of brass for strength when positioning on the deck.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 September 25, 2013, 05:34:39
Its been a while since I last posted any build log due to my holiday to the USA and sadly the recent passing of my Dad known as ARH on this site, but I want to keep you all up to date.

Here is a link to one of my Dad's models http://modeltugforum.com/index.php?topic=4405.0 (http://modeltugforum.com/index.php?topic=4405.0)

Update 40 25/9/2013

I have done some work on the rear superstructure, installing portholes and steering gear.

The rudder is chain operated via four pulleys with the servo mounted under the superstructure.

The servo pushes a shuttle block mounted inside a 6mm square brass tube which in turn pulls the chain attached to the tiller arm.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Model Tug Man September 25, 2013, 09:59:03

I am deeply sorry to learn of the passing of your father, Ron. Please accept my condolances. Ron had helped me many years ago while I was researching the Franklin and provided me with a great deal of helpful information. He was always ready to lend a helping hand and share any information he had. He also possessed great skill in model building and his boats speak of that skill in their accuracy and level of detail. We will certainly be poorer without him.


: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 September 25, 2013, 11:23:14
Thank you Tug Man,

Your words are like those of the many modellers I have received from around the world of a man who was willing to help in any way he could.  He will be missed by his family, friends and the model ship world, but I do know that his skills and techniques have also been passed onto many other modellers with his build logs on this site and others so in one way his legacy lives on.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: 2tugboats September 26, 2013, 11:56:50
I took in your Dad's battleship and the accompanying pictures. Beautiful and
very strong in real ship spirit. You have lost a model minded Dad extraordinaire.

You certainly are carrying out your Dad's creed of sharing the experience and
knowledge wealth. I for one have found your posts and pictures overwhelming
in value for creating my tugboat.

To illustrate your Dad's contribution to the Forum here and its power, here is
a picture on the USS Nebraska, build in Seattle in 1906 - 1908. This large
model in on display at the builders "home" on Orcas Island here.


I first stood by its glass case in 1972, I was so impressed with the model that
I took a personal oath. . ."I have got to have one of these". Like your Father's
handsome effort, this model maker had gotten me by the sea legs.

Thank you Tiny for your sharing. You have made light bulbs go off in my tugboat
mind for months now. A pleasure to know you,
Michael in Anacortes, Washington
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 September 29, 2013, 10:35:32
Update 41 29/9/2013

Mounted to the front of the engine room casing is a platform with steps either side lead to the main deck level. This is an addition to the original design and used for boarding the ship when along side the quay. I started by cutting the platform from 1mm thick brass sheet to a size of 156mm x 29mm. Using solder paste I next attached the raised edge to three sides of the platform. From the etched sheet I had produced I removed the stair sides and treads and made up a wooden jig to hold the parts together whilst I soldered them together.  Moving back to the platform I soldered the two support brackets in place and the small brackets for the stairs to lock into later.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 October 06, 2013, 11:25:45
Update 42 6/10/2013

Having made the platform I could now attach it to the front of the superstructure. First I drilled four holes that lined up with those in the two support brackets. Next I attached the platform with Cyano and glued pins into the holes to strengthen the joint.

With the platform in place I decided to make the small valve assembly located on the side of the superstructure. First I bent a piece of 3mm diameter brass rod through 90 degrees to form the basic pipe section. Then I made the three flanges from 1mm thick styrene sheet using a hot brass tube to cut out the circular shapes. I drilled four holes in each to insert the small bolt heads. The rest of the assembly was made using pieces of tube and other bits from my scrap box.

The final photo shows the superstructure in place clearly showing the platform, stairs and valve assembly.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 October 13, 2013, 07:42:36
Update 43 13/10/2013

With the upper platform completed next I decided to build the lower platform that supports a large tank. Using plastic sheet instead of brass this time I cut out the basic shape and then glued the raise edges all round. I then made the two support stanchions and glued them to the underside of the platform.

The tank was also made from plastic sheet with two sides 70 x 40mm and two sides 20 x 40mm all glued together with 3mm square sections placed in the corners to strengthen the joints. To finish off the basic tank I glued on the plastic sheet top section. The platform was then glued in place on the front of the superstructure with the tank placed in position.

The next item to make was the small tank that sits behind the funnel. This was also constructed using plastic sheet. With the basic shape complete I then bent some 1mm OD brass rod to form the three pipes and added the small flanges to form the small fittings.

Now I wanted to start making the funnel and using the 31mm OD brass tube I purchased a while ago I made a start by cutting it to length. Next using a compass cutter set to 21.5mm I cut a 43mm OD circle out of plastic sheet to form the base. I then glued the base to the tube and attached a 3mm wide strip of plastic to the base of the tube form the flange.

Next I applied the three bands that run around the top of the funnel, again using 3mm plastic. I then cut out the top flange using the compass cutter set to 21mm to give a 42mm OD section which has a 25mm OD hole cut out to form the top section of the funnel.

I marked the positions of the four stay brackets and cut them out of 1mm thick plastic, drilled a 1mm hole in each and glued them in place. There is still a lot more work to do on the funnel.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 October 20, 2013, 08:32:19
Update 44 20/10/2013

I have been doing some more work on the funnel this week and concentrating on the steam whistle assembly at the front of the funnel. It consists of a main steam pipe with a T section with two whistles mounted on two valves. I started with the six flanges cut from 1mm thick plasticard using a heated brass tube. Each flange has four sets of nuts and bolts to clamp them together so using Verlingden Products Resin cast Nut and Bolt set I glued four bolt heads (top row) on three flanges and four nuts (bottom row) on the other three flanges.

With the flanges made I started on the T section by soldering two pieces of 3mm OD brass tube together and glued one flange to each of the three ends. I then started to make the top of the assembly with the ball valve using a small round plastic pin as a basis. On one side | glued a small bolt head and on the other made the valve arm from a piece of brass rod bent to shape and filed flat on two sides.

Next I made the top flange from a small piece of round plasticard and the whistle tube from brass with a square section filed into it. With the top whistle complete I moved onto making the smaller one that is positioned on the left.

First I soldered two small sections of tube together at right angles and then fitted a larger diameter tube to the top section. The top dome section was cut from a piece of brass tube which is supported on a piece of brass rod. This small assembly was glued to the last flange and attached to the main asembly.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 October 27, 2013, 10:21:18
Update 45 27/10/2013

I have been continuing the work on the funnel by making the collection of small steam whistles at the rear of the funnel. There are eight in total and the soul function is to play tunes. Each one is a note from C D F F G A E B on a musical scale.

To start with I cut eight sections of brass tube each a slightly different length, the first being 12mm long, the last 7.5mm. Next I cut a notch in each to represent the steam aperture.

To make the base fitting I soldered togther two Billings single eyebolts with a section of brass rod passed through them. I repeated this eight times.

Now I could solder each of the whistle tubes on top of the bases by placing the tip of the soldering iron on the top of the tube and applying a small amount of solder to the joint.

Each on was done in turn until I had completed all eight.  Taking a piece of brass tube I bent it to the required shape and marked out the eight positions. Then I drilled a 1mm OD hole at each position. I then drilled two holes in the back of the tube for the supporting brackets. Lastly I bent a piece of copper pipe to shape and attached it to the curve pipe before installing each whistle in place.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 November 03, 2013, 12:20:40
Update 46 3/11/2013

To start with I have been making the two hawser ports positioned on the bow bulwarks. First I glued together two pieces of 2mm thick plastcard and then marked out the oval shape. I then filed and sanded them to shape. The port side one is mounted on a plate so I cut a piece of 0.5mm thick plasticard and marked out the position of the sixteen rivets that hold it in place. With a 0.8mm OD drill bit I cut out the holes and glued a pin head into each hole. The hawser port was then glued into position.

I now decided to make a set of four turnbuckles for the funnel stays. First I cut eight sections of rectangle brass tube into 3mm lengths. Then I cut a piece of 1mm OD brass rod into four 18mm long sections. Lastly I cut four pieces of 1.8mm OD copper tube into 10mm lengths. In each of the rectangular pieces I drilled three 1mm OD holes and then placed the pieces into a simple jig of balsa wood so I could solder them together. With the parts soldered together the ends where filled round and the end section removed to form the U section.

To go with the turnbuckles I needed four shackles so I started by bending a piece of 1mm OD brass rod into a U shape and soldered a piece of copper tube to the top of each. Then I cut out the middle section of the copper tube with a razor saw and inserted a cut down pin to represent the bolt.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 November 10, 2013, 08:32:32
Update 47 10/11/2013

Continuing on with the funnel stays the next item was to make eight tear drop shaped eyelets for the wire rope to pass through and be secured. Starting with a 1.8mm OD copper tube I bent it around a piece of 3mm diameter brass rod to form the basic tear drop shape. Next I soldered the joint at the point of the tear drop. With a flat file I started to file half way through the tube section to leave a U section all round.

The first photo shows two eyelets with the ropes and shackles fitted to the funnel showing how the rope fits into the U section of the eyelets.

The second photo shows the funnel in place with the funnel stays temporary in place. The ropes are black 1mm OD cord wrapped around the eyelet, twisted together and secured with a drop cyano.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: 2tugboats November 10, 2013, 12:55:28
Thank you Tiny69 for the first class sharing of your building. It is a God sent
that you carry on the tradition of your Dad for helping others and myself to
create a tugboat spirit for those that see our tugboats.

For example, for a guy like me that knows it all. . .your pictures of how you
created your turnbuckles actually thrilled me as I made, in my mind, the turnbuckles
I need for my build. Indeed, your sharing gives an opening for ways to work
that install confidence in our sometimes loss of Hope for what to do next.

I consider you a leader in the field of tugboat building on this planet.
Thank you Tiny69 and keep on tugging,

Michael in Anacortes, Washington
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 November 11, 2013, 09:08:15

I'm glad that you find my posts helpful and can use my techniques in your own building.  I have always been one for sharing my knowlwdge and help to improve others building techniques.  I often spend quite some time thinking about how to make various parts, visualising them in my imagination before I attempt to make the actual items.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 November 17, 2013, 10:35:52
Update 48 17/11/13

This week I have started to build the wheelhouse using strips of wood laid out to form the base. First I marked out the shape on a piece of hard wood so I didn't have to work on the main superstructure.

With the main base completed I started to construct the two sides with the corner pieces first then gluing the top section on.

Now I could attach the top rail on the front and back sections to complete the basic box shape of the lower section of the wheelhouse.

More vertical supports were required so I cut and glued two in the front section and three in the rear. This allows for the rear door to be fitted later.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 November 17, 2013, 10:39:16
Update 48 continued

To finish off the wooden frame I added two more uprights on each side and horizontal beams between each upright all round.

In the second photo the wheelhouse frame is in position on the superstructure to ensure it fits aound the steering gear pulleys on either side.

Using my circular bench saw I cut 4mm wide strips of limewood for the outside planking and one by one started to plank the ouside of the frame starting at the rear before doing each side. Each plank was cut slightly oversize and the two long edges sanded to emphasise the joints. When each side was complete the top and bottom edges were trimmed back to the wooden frame.

The rear door position can clearly be seen.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Model Tug Man November 19, 2013, 04:40:27
Nice job, Tiny. Your joinery skills are excellent.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 November 20, 2013, 08:49:17
It has been a time consuming job cutting all the pieces, especially the planks around the outside but the wheelhouse is starting to look quite good.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 November 24, 2013, 11:23:25
Update 49 24/11/2013

I have been continuing work on the wooden wheelhouse by completing the planking along the front.

With all the vertical planking complete next was to start on the coaming around the base which overhangs the main engine room casing by about 2mm. Firstly I marked the height of the coaming all round the wheel house and then glued a 3mm wide by 1mm thick wooden strip to each side to make up the difference between the wooden wheel house and the engine room casing. Next I cut some 7mm wide by 0.5mm thick planks to form the outer over lapping coaming. Each section was carefully measured and then cut to length. At the corners I filed a 45 degree angle to form a neat joint when the two sections were glued in position.

With the lower coaming complete next I started to make the top sill by cutting a length of 2mm thick wood to 6mm wide on the circular bench saw. Then I half round one edge with a file and fine sand paper. I needed to cut five sections allowing for the door, each with a 45 degree cut at each end to make a neat joint. With the joints cut the pieces were glued in place and left to set overnight.

To finish off all the joints were sanded ready for painting later.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 December 08, 2013, 10:45:21
Update 50 8/12/2013

With the lower half of the wheelhouse constructed I started to work on the slatted wooden floor. First I cut and glued two support beams in the six square sections. For the planks I decided to use some 3mm wide lime which I cut into 30mm lengths using my mini bench disc saw. Each plank was sanded smooth to remove any rough edges and glued in place with a 1mm wide gap between each. I used a piece of 1mm wide wood placed against the previous plank to glue the next one in position.

With the rear planks in place I started to cut the next section of 35mm long planks on the disc saw. I then started to glue the twenty four planks in place matching the gaps as I went. The last section has a gap in it for the reversing gear which I will be making later.  The gap down the middle is for the steering gear channel to pass through to the steering mechanism.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: stephen December 08, 2013, 12:27:07
How wonderful, kept me enthralled. A trip I would so much like to do, such an experience. Many thanks to you for showing it to us... Steve K
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 December 09, 2013, 12:08:21
How wonderful, kept me enthralled. A trip I would so much like to do, such an experience. Many thanks to you for showing it to us... Steve K

I take it that you have been watching my trip videos on YouTube
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 December 15, 2013, 11:03:31
Update 51 15/12/2013

I have now started to make the internal fittings in the wheelhouse and started with the binnacle.

I searched through my brass tubes and selected some that would suit the basic structure. The top section is a small section with a 2mm ring around the base. The top section was placed on top of another section of brass tube and I cut some 3mm wide planks and glued them around the circumference of the tube.

Next I selected another piece of small diameter tube and cut a small section off. Then I placed it in a vice and squeezed it slightly to form the oval shape. I drilled a hole and filed it out to fit the oval brass tube in. The circular disk was cut from the end of a brass rod and glued in place below the oval tube. I next cut a rectangle section from a piece of brass sheet and positioned it on the front of the column.

The two sphere brackets are made from brass strip soldered together at right angles with two holes drilled in them. The two spheres are just coloured map pins mounted on brass rings and placed through the hole in the top of the bracket. I haven't cut the ends of the pins off yet.

The compass bowl is a smaller diameter tube with a piece of circular plasticard placed in the top.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 January 11, 2014, 00:06:36
Update 52 11/01/2014

Continuing on with the internal wheelhouse fittings the hand wheel assembly was made from a piece of brass tube with a rod passed down the centre. On top of the rod a small hand wheel was positioned. The lever and plate are made from brass filed to shape. The plate was soldered in place onto the main tube.

The next item is the reversing lever. The outer casing is made from 0.8mm thick plasticard cut to shape with a spacer at either end. The two guides are cut from brass sheet with a curve filed on the top edge and slotted in place on top of the main casing. The lever was filed from a piece of brass strip with the handle turned in my electric hand drill and soldered in place.

On the left of the wheelhouse is a chart desk and the top and outer casing was made from 1mm thick plywood. The four drawers are 5mm wide obechi strip assembled into 28mm square boxes and stacked on top of each other. The legs a 3mm square obechi glued in each corner.

On the right is the voice pipe to the engine room made from a piece of copper tube bent to shape with a brass flange soldered to the top. The cap in the top was turned in the electric hand drill with a file and placed into the flange.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 January 11, 2014, 00:10:35
Update 52 Continued

With most of the internal fittings done the last main item is the steering gear where the rudder chain is controlled via the ships wheel. First I had to find some gears in my scrap box and work out the centres for each of the three cogs I was going to use. I used the CAD programme to draw up the frames with the correct centres for the cog shafts. This was printed then the frames cut out and glued to a piece of plasticard.

The holes for the shafts were drilled out first then I filed out the three sections before filing the outside shape of the frames. The two frames were glued to the base with the cogs and shafts placed in position.

Next I turned two guide pulleys from 3mm OD brass rod using the mini drill and a triangular shaped file to cut the groove. Then a 1mm OD hole was drilled down the centre and the pulleys mounted on a 1mm OD brass shaft. The two pulley assemblies were positioned at the base of the frame in line with the chain channel.

The rudder position indicator was made next from some brass rod soldered together mounted on a piece of plasticard cut to the shape of a quadrant. This was then glued to the frame next to the ships wheel shaft.

I would just like to wish everyone a Happy New Year for 2014 and remember absent family and friends.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 January 12, 2014, 08:47:57
Update 53: 12/01/2014

To finish off the steering gear assembly I needed a ship wheel. I decided that I would buy one online that suited my needs and modify it. After a search I found a 40mm diameter Artesania Latina ships wheel fitting that I could use. First I had to drill the hub out to fit the 3mm OD shaft. Next I cut a 1mm wide ring from a piece of 25mm OD brass tube to form the brass ring that fits to the front of the main wheel.

In the centre of the wheel is a brass hub cap which I made by turning a piece of brass with a file in the small electric hand drill. The wheel was then stained with mahogany wood stain before the brass fittings were glued in place. I have also stained the binnacle and chest of drawers frame with just a clear varnish finish on the front of each drawer.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Model Tug Man January 14, 2014, 07:34:40
Very nice, Tiny. Impressive work.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 February 02, 2014, 02:13:55
Update 54: 02/04/2014

Mounted on the outside of the wheel house are the two navigation light boxes which have both oil and electric lights fitted. To make the boxes I cut out the three sides from some scraps of 1mm plywood.

The three pieces where glued together and two brackets made from rectangular section brass tube and glued to the back. The support brackets the boxes mount on are from a 1.5mm OD brass tube bent to a simple 's' shape and one end flattened in a vice.

The mounting brackets position the light boxes clear of the wheel house so that they can be easily removed.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 February 02, 2014, 02:17:45
Update 54: continued

Next I started to make the lifebelt marker buoy support brackets from 1mm thick plywood. The top section has a 2mm OD hole drilled in it for the buoy to sit in. The three pieces where glued together and positioned on the side of the wheel house.

With my lathe now set up in my work area I turned the centre section of the marker buoy from 5mm OD brass with a chamfered top edge and rounded bottom edge. Then a 2mm OD hole was drilled through the centre. The middle section was then soldered to a 2mm OD brass rod.

The marker buoy was then cleaned up and placed in its support bracket.

: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 February 02, 2014, 02:20:55
Update 54: Continued

The next item I made was the power socket mounted in the rear of the superstructure. I started with a brass tube soldered to an angled section of channel. I then filed the main body to shape and mounted it on a small section of plasticard. To finish it off I placed four small nut heads in the corners and positioned it on the superstructure.

Now I had to make some lifebelts and I had a resin mould from my previous project, TID164 so one at a time I cast five. The photo shows the original master, the resin mould with a casting setting and the final lifebelt. The lifebelts are place on small brackets made from brass sections glued to the outside of the wheel house.

: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: tugs53 February 02, 2014, 11:29:54
Very nice detail.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: mike_victoriabc February 02, 2014, 11:35:56
Interesting build - lots of detail. Thanks for the construction information.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Model Tug Man February 05, 2014, 08:42:36
Very nice work, Tiny. She is going to be a museum piece.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 February 08, 2014, 00:43:57
Thanks for the comments.  I'm glad you appreciate my modelling skills.  The more detail I can build into my model the more enjoyment I get out of building it.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: west coast tug February 08, 2014, 08:33:27
Did the real tug have steam assisted steering , Or was it just mechanical .
My 60" Master I dummy d the steering mechanism as you have but the real tug is steam assisted in the house.
I have the chain on the outside of the bulwark ,But above the rubbing strip. As you see it connects to the steering quadrant that in turn attaches to the rudder post. There is 2 springs half way on each side as a shock absorbent.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 February 09, 2014, 08:07:58

The original vessel had purely mechanical steering gear via chains and pulleys from the wheelhouse to the steering quadrant.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 February 09, 2014, 08:19:46
Update 55: 09/02/2014

Cowl vents are quite complicated shapes to make with several curves in various directions. Traditionally they are carved from solid blocks of wood but my wood working skills are not up to the standard I wish to achieve on this model. With the advent of 3D printers I decided to have a go at designing my own and have them 'printed'. The program I am familiar with is Autodesk Inventor so I was able to quickly model up a design that suited my requirements. The first photo below shows a 13mm OD cowl with a 8mm OD column. The wall thickness is only 0.81mm thick which is much thinner than I would ever be able to achieve if I was to carve them from solid blocks of wood.

With the model design complete I now had to convert the Inventor file into a file a 3D printer can understand. Those files are known as STL (STereoLithography) and is used to describe the surface geometry to the 3D printer. With the file converted the next step is to check that the model surfaces are fully closed so I loaded it to a program called Netfabb to do this. The second photo below shows the model loaded into http://www.Netfabb.com (http://www.Netfabb.com) for checking. With the model passing the tests it is now ready for upload to a printing bureau for manufacture. I was given the website address http://www.Shapeways.com (http://www.Shapeways.com) who specialise in 3D printing in various materials and there are no minimum order quantities to worry about.

First I created an account and uploaded my design and the website instantly started to check the design for printability and the cost of production in all materials available. To order it is then just a simple case of selecting the required material and how many of each are required. I chose the white strong flexible plastic option and placed the order.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 February 09, 2014, 08:25:41
Update 55: Continued

Now I just had to wait for my delivery of two 20mm OD, two 13mm OD and one 10mm OD cowl vents. After about two weeks the parcel arrived from Holland containing the items.

To complete each cowl vent they where mounted on brass tubes with an outer band added to cover the joint between the two pieces

The engine room vents are 20mm OD mounted on a 10mm OD brass tube cut to length. The base has a flange with sixteen etched bolt heads from the brass etching set I had made earlier on in this project.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 February 23, 2014, 08:54:03
Update 55: 23/02/2014

Since the last update I have been busy working on the bow fittings on the ship. Firstly I made the companionway down to the forward crews quarters using 1mm thick plasticard.

Next to the companionway is the stove exhaust pipe which I used two sizes of brass tube cut to size and soldered together to form the 'H' section at the top.

In the picture you can also see a cowl vent, the top is one of those that I had 3D printed attached to a length of 6mm OD brass tube.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 February 23, 2014, 08:57:32
Update 55 Continued

The main item on the bow is the winch/windlass. Originally used to lift cargo from the hold it is now used for lifting the ships boat off the cargo hatch into the sea as well as raising/lowering the main anchor. Over the past weeks I have been CADding up the winch from the photo's I have working out gear sizes and how all the piston linkages fit together. I want this to be a working winch so the main structure and linkages will be made from brass. More like a small model engineers project.

With my new micro milling machine I set up the sheet of brass and milled out the basic base shape and then the base detail along the two edges and then two slots for the side sections to slot into. Having marked out the two side sections I milled out the shapes to ensure straight edges and correct angles were achieved. The photo below shows the basic shape of the winch with the main cylinders and inner valve chest pistons each turned on the lathe. Also shown are the main bearings and shaft for the main winch drum.

The main pistons are mounted in milled brackets with chamfered edges. Next I made the two piston rods soldering the square block to the 2mm OD brass rod. The hard part is ensuring everything is square so lots of measuring, checking and setting up is required.

Next I made the con rods that connect the piston rods to the main crankshaft which is positioned on the top of the side sections. The final photo shows all the parts made to date including the main drive shaft placed in position to give an idea of the winch layout.

With the bow section being compact the winch is a vertical design with the pistons moving vertically rather than the more traditional horizontal designs.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 March 02, 2014, 10:43:51
Update 56: 02/03/2014

Continuing on with the build of the winch I turned up four small pipe flanges and soldered two of each on to the steam valve body at right angles to each other.  The steam valves are mounted on the inner face of the main upright sections and are connected to the main drive shaft with occentric links.

To start the occentric links I cut two 3mm wide 7mm OD tubes and two 8mm OD tubes, soldering them together to form one thicker tube. Next I cut a length of 2mm x 3mm brass section and soldered it to the base of each tube. To finish off two small 2mm x 3mm brass sections were soldered either side of the main shaft to form the basic shape. At the base of the main shaft a 1mm OD hole was drilled for the pin of the connecting rod and the bottom edge rounded off with a file.

The top of the connecting rod was made from a rectangular section of brass tube with the top face filled off to form a 'U' shape before soldering it to a length of 1mm OD brass rod. The pin connecting the two items is a piece of 1mm OD brass rod.

Next I decided to jig up the base and sides using scap sections of plywood to hold the pieces so that I could solder everything together. Using two 40W irons I was able to generate enough heat for the solder to flow into the joints to ensure a strong clean connection. Now I could solder the two bearings for the top shaft in place. The photo shows the top drive shaft with the pistion linkages in place and occentic linkages on the main shaft. The two connectining rods are still to be cut to length.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Model Tug Man March 03, 2014, 08:33:39
You are doing a great job, Tiny. Very impressive.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Calimero March 03, 2014, 14:53:39
Dang ! That looks nice !

I sometime struggle with my simple kit tugboat, so I'm all the more impressed by scratch builds, especially with metal work/machining !  cool

Maybe one day I'll go the high road too.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 August 18, 2014, 10:39:54
Update 57: 18/08/2014

Its been a while since my last post and I haven't done any modelling since March. I have finally got the urge to carry on with the VIC so I have started where I left off, the winch. Well actually I started again using some of the existing parts but had the base, sides and other parts made using a brass etch I designed on the computer.

I started to reconstruct the winch by soldering the sides together and the mounted the top shaft with its gears and oscillating valve gear. Next I started to put together the main cable drum and mounted it on the main shaft.

The two capsan drums were turned from 18mm OD brass rod on the lathe initially turning it down to 16mm OD. Then I cut the brake cylinder groove at one end before turning down the drum section to 10mm OD. I used a round file to form the internal curves of the drums.

The last photo shows the winch in place on the bow with the pistons and connecting rods in position.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Model Tug Man August 27, 2014, 04:19:09
Impressive work, Tiny. Happy to see you back in the saddle. Looking forward to more.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 August 27, 2014, 11:18:01
Update 58: 27/08/2014

The next stage in building the winch was to assemble the three brake bands that run around the main drum, anchor drum and wrapping drum. Using plasticard and styrene strips I assembled the brackets and belts that fit in the groove section on each of the drums.

The brake is adjusted with a threaded rod that tightens the belt around the drum using a hand wheel. Using pieces of 3mm square plastic strip I filed to shape the two top brackets and glued them in place on top of the brake belts. Then a small hole was drilled through one of the brackets for the brass rod to pass through. The hand wheel was soldered to the end of the rod and placed in position.

Below the anchor drum is an idle wheel that the chain runs around before entering the chain locker below the deck. I turned the wheel from a section of 10mm OD brass bar and used a 3mm diameter round file to form the groove in the pulley. Using plasticard I constructed the casing for the pulley and glued it in place below the anchor drum.

The photo clearly shows how the chain runs over the anchor drum and drops down around the idle pulley.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 August 31, 2014, 08:45:03
Update 59: 31/08/2014

Work on the winch as continued with the addition of extra details on the braking belts. Using Grandt Line Hex nuts and Verlinden resin cast bolt heads I have applied them in various places on the winch. These will add an extra realism to the winch once it is all painted.

These items are very small and a great deal of patience is required to fit them in place but the overall result is well worth the effort. On the main shaft bearing I have also made the oil cups from brass, which were simply glued in place with Cyano.

The main steam chest is made using square tube sections of brass soldered together to form a cross and the ends filled with solder. These were filed to shape and a flange fitted on top from the etch brass sheet I had produced. The whole unit was then mounted on the bracket and glued in place on the base of the winch.

The four steam pipes were bent to shape from a length of brass tube. This was a fiddly job getting the the right shape and length to fit between the steam chest and valves. The rod that connects to the steam chest was made of brass which connects to the arm made from plastic strip filed to shape.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: FsASTSyd1 August 31, 2014, 23:25:31
Wonderfull - It's work like this that makes me stick to what I am good at - turning matches into charcoal springs to mind !!!. lol   The standards of work / construction seem to get better every year, just hope I can keep up with even half of them.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: 2tugboats September 01, 2014, 09:11:59
Thank you Tiny. . .the pleasure I find on your work is that I don't have to look
or worry about having found the very best approach for what I am working on
for my tugs. Your work is the end of searching for me.

I build copies of your dockworkers in my mind. You make my building a pleasure
for me. It is quite exciting to walk about the decks of your model. . .almost better
than the real thing. Although I will never achieve your museum quality, my
"wood butcher" approach produces pretty good amusing results.

For example, and don't be too aghast Tiny, here is a quickie winch that I spent
almost an hour on and then moved on to another winch project. The roller guides
are meant for a pickup truck winch. . .that's it. But, now that I have seen what
you have built, a real miniature winch, I will try to put a winch behind the guides.
You have inspired my yet again to move to a bit of higher standards.


Thank you for superior ideas and quality sharing Tiny,
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 September 03, 2014, 12:40:07
Glad to see my model work inspiring fellow builders to have a go at modelling to a higher standard and firing their imaginations.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 September 07, 2014, 10:35:11
Update 60: 07/09/2014

To finish the winch only the safety guards around the main toothed gears and piston flywheels needed to be made. I started with the two flywheel covers by finding some 6mm wide brass strip in my scrap box. The brass strip was formed around a piece of 16mm OD brass bar to give the curved shape of the cover, which was finished off with a short flat section at each end. I soldered a support bracket at each end and soldered the two covers in place over the flywheels.

The tooth gear guard was a little more complex to make as I needed to form the shape around the pinion gear as well as the drum gear. First I found a strip of 5mm wide brass and a 10mm OD brass tube. The tube was used to bend the strip around to form the shape of the cover around the pinion gear. Next I cut a slot either side of the formed arch shape where I needed to bend the strip at right angles. Once bent I soldered the joint to give it added strength. I then found a section of tube big enough to from the cover of the drum gear. With the odd looking shape now formed I checked it a number of times on the winch adjusting it were necessary. Again two support brackets were soldered in place before the whole cover was placed in position and the support brackets soldered to the main body of the winch.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 September 14, 2014, 09:43:05
Update 61: 14/09/2014

Beside the winch is a small access hatch down into the forward crews quarters. When I had the etch brass parts made for the winch I also had the hatch top, cover and port hole made at the same time. I made the body of the hatch from 1mm thick plasticard to form the square shape. The box is 18mm square and the hatch top fitted directly to the plastic box. Next I made the small brass hinges and soldered one side to the hatch lid and glued the other half of the hinge to the back of the plastic body. To finish it off I then glued the porthole to the lid.

The next item I decided to make was the large anchor that sits upright against the bulwark. It is a traditional style Stocked Anchor. First I drafted the shape I required on my computer and printed it out. I cut out the shape and glued to a sheet of 2mm thick brass sheet. I then mounted the sheet into a small milling machine to roughly cut out the shape the anchor. Now the hard work of filing the excess away and get the shape I wanted. Then I made the two plates from the 2mm thick brass and soldered them in place.

The anchor's stock was made from a piece of 2.4mm OD brass rod with three balls turned on the lathe from 6mm OD brass bar. The first two balls were soldered in place before the bar was pushed through the hole. The third ball was then soldered in place.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 September 22, 2014, 10:27:32
Update 62: 21/09/2014

Anchor Chain Stop

Continuing on with the machinery around the bow I decided to make the Anchor Chain Stop next. Using some brass channel I soldered the pieces together to form a U shape for the stop to sit in. The stop was made from two pieces of rectangular section of brass strip soldered together with a thin brass strip soldered on top. Then I soldered a round boss on top and drilled a 1mm OD hole through it for the shaft to fit in.

The two side pieces were made next from brass strip and glued in place. The U shaped unit was then glued in place on the bulwarks in front of the hole that the anchor chain passes through. Now I could make the hand wheel support bracket from a piece of brass bar with a 1mm OD hole drilled at the end. Lastly the small hand wheel was glued in place.

Mast Base

The main mast is split in to two sections with the pivot point just above the derrick mount. First I started making the base by bending a piece of flat brass to form a U section. Next I cut the two side pieces and soldered then in place. On the lathe I turned a boss with a 4mm OD hole through it so it could be bolted to the base and into the deck. Then the 89mm long 11mm OD tube was placed over the boss.

The triangular section was then soldered in place. Next I turned two flanges and soldered one to the bottom section of the mast. The other was soldered to the 273mm long 11mm OD tube that forms the second section of the mast. Each flange had a 9mm Diameter hole drilled through it so that a 9mm diameter tube could be inserted to hold the two sections together.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Model Tug Man September 24, 2014, 03:59:44

I can't wait to see the winch after it is painted. That has to be the most realistic scratch built winch I have ever seen. The other work is excellent as well. Very well done, sir.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 September 28, 2014, 08:59:14
Update 63: 28/09/2014

Upper Mast

Having soldered two further sections of tube to the main section the next item was to turn the mast top from a piece of 10mm OD brass bar.  First  I turned the end to form a 6.5mm OD knuckle so it would slot into the 8mm OD tube which has an internal diameter of 6.5mm.  Then it was parted off and turned around in the chuck to face of the end.  With a file I rounded of the edge.

On the milling machine I then cut some 4mm wide strips of brass to start making each of the rigging brackets.  Each one was cut to length with a 1.5mm OD hole drilled at the end.  The mast was set up in the milling machine and series of 4mm x 1.5mm slots were cut into the mast for the brackets to sit in.  With the brackets placed in the slots I then soldered each one.  The mast light bracket was assembled from a section of 9.5mm OD tube, 1mm thick flat plate and two some sections of brass strip all soldered together in a small wooden jig.


Having sketched up the derrick on my computer I obtained four sections of brass tube measuring 9/32, 1/4, 7/32 & 3/16, so each one slotted inside the other.  First I started by cutting the 9/32 OD tube to 270mm in length.  I then cut two sections 40mm long sections from the 1/4 OD tube and slotted one in each end of the 9/32 tube.  I repeated this for the other two tubes.

Before soldering all the sections together I made sure the derreck reached the crutch on the wheelhouse and found I had to make some small adjustments to the overall length to ensure a good fit.  At the base of the upper section of the mast is a strange looking bracket which I can only surmise is to hang a lantern from when at anchor.  I cut two sections of square tube, soldering a section of tube at on end of each piece.

I then made the U shaped bracket and drilled a hole through the two sides before gluing it in place at the end of the square tube.  The item was then glued to the base of the upper section of mast.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 October 05, 2014, 07:31:59
Update 64: 05/10/2014

Anchor Davit

I started this item some while back with the top section by bending a piece of brass strip to shape to get the correct angle of the davit. Then I cut a series of slots in a second piece of brass strip to allow it to be bent to form the shape of the first strip and mounted perpendicular on top. I repeated this on another piece of brass strip to form the underside of the cross section. The three pieces were then soldered together to create the cross section.

The centre boss was turned from a section of brass rod and a cross cut into the top surface for the upper section to slot into before soldering them together. The bottom cross section was milled from a section of 6mm square brass bar. Having cut the section to length I drilled a 1mm hole in the centre of the cross and inserted a 1mm OD brass rod to act as a strengthening pin. Next I drilled a 1mm hole in the bottom of the centre boss and just glued the top and bottom sections together. The bottom pivot was turned on the lathe and then filed to a diamond shape and mounted on top of a section of brass channel.

Fish Weather Vane Post

One item of decoration on the ship is a weather vane in the shape of a fish. It is made from copper and is mounted on top of a large post. To make the post I started with a section of 12mm OD brass tube. On the lathe I turned the top section and then soldered it to the top of the brass tube. The post is wrapped in thick rope so using some thick rigging string I wrapped the hole length of the brass tube.

Around the top is a decorative finish and to achieve this I glued three pieces of thinner string together at on end and then wrapped this around the top of the post to finish it off. I am still thinking how to do the fish shaped weather vane!

Water Pipe and Mast light

Next to the main mast is a small water pipe with a cap on top. The pipe is made from a piece of 3mm OD brass tube and I turned the cap on the lathe. Then I soldered a piece of very small chain to the top of the cap and the side of the pipe.

At the bottom of the mast is a circular light fitting. First I turned the base flange on the lathe, cut a section of 12mm OD tube for the outside of the light. The conduit box on top is from a piece of square brass filed to size. I drilled out the conduit box so I can fit a small bulb later. The three items were then soldered together.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 October 12, 2014, 10:54:50
Update 65: 12/10/2014

Now for something completely new to me, airbrushing. All along on this project I have wanted to try new building techniques such as CAD, laser cutting, brass etching, 3D printing and also learn to use an airbrush. I did a but of research and opted to buy an Iwata TRN2 airbrush with a Sprint compressor. I also found an helpful DVD on the basics of learning to use an airbrush. It covered the basics of the equipment, how it works and some simple painting techniques. It also went through some simple exercises to get use to the airbrush before showing how to apply the paint to a model. After spending a couple of days mixing paint to the correct consistency, spraying lines, dots, wiggly lines of various thicknesses and filling in blocks of paint all on plain white paper I felt confident enough to start applying some paint to the ship. I decided to paint some of the black fittings first as I had received some complementary paints with the airbrush and matt black was the only colour I could use on this model.

Over the course of painting all the fittings I learnt the correct consistency to mix the paint so that I can apply thin coats of paint, how to set up my work space and how much paint to mix each for each session. Also how long it takes to clean the airbrush afterwards. I am quite please with the results and how fine the finish is compared to hand painting or spraying using an aerosol.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Jarvo October 12, 2014, 12:39:53
HI Tiny

My compliments on the fine finnish of the black components, your test will be when you start on larger areas, the black art of spraying is hard learnt, go slowly, don't try to lay to much paint to quickly and most of all make sure your workshop / spray booth is warm and dry.

I await your next post, good luck.

: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 October 19, 2014, 07:27:02
Update 66: 19/10/2014

I have been slowly progressing with the painting this week.

All the black fittings have been re-coated and on the hatch a test of the red I have chosen.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Model Tug Man October 20, 2014, 03:45:40
Looking good, Tiny. The detail work you are doing is remarkable. I was looking at the water tank with the rivets--wow. Should be able to see that mast coming from a distance, right.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 October 20, 2014, 12:14:16
Here is are some pictures of the VIC entering the Crinan Canal at Lochgilphead.  The mast is bright yellow and as you say can be seen for miles.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 November 04, 2014, 11:56:20
Update 67: 04/11/2014

At the beginning of this project I decided that I wanted to include some of the sounds I recorded whilst on board. I have been searching for an electronic module that I could use and download my own sounds into. On a recent trip to the Blackpool Model Boat show I came across the Component shop trade stand selling various electronic modules for model boats. One of them is the Action Noisy Thing that can store up to 11 sound files. I decided to purchase one with all the necessary items needed to set up the whole system.

The photo shows the layout of all the components. First I installed the motor lining it up with the shaft with a double universal coupling and screwed it in place on the wooden mount. Then I built a box to place the electronic speed control in, close to the motor. I placed the battery in the centre of the hold which fits neatly across the width of the hull. Now I arranged the Electronic modules and receiver in front of the battery tray, building small boxes to place them in.

The speaker is mounted at the rear underneath the engine room superstructure directly under the funnel. It is mounted on sticky pads with four screws to hold it down. The speaker is directly wired into the amplifier at the front of the hull. I have routed all the power cables down one side of the hull with all the receiver cables down the other side. This will minimise any electrical interference. I have also fitted a suppression kit on the motor. That's all of the hardware installation.

The software for the sound module was loaded onto my laptop and the unit connected via a USB lead to program it. Having already sampled the engine sounds I wished to use and converted them into the appropriate type of files the unit uses. The program was loaded and the sounds allocated to the relevant slots within the memory of the unit. With the laptop still connected I switched on the transmitter and then the boat. When I pushed the throttle stick the motor started to turn and the engine sound synced with it gradually increasing in speed as the motor did. I was able to fine tune the sounds with the laptop until I was happy with everything.

I hope this will add another dimension to the model when it is sailing.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 November 09, 2014, 08:19:22
Update 68: 9/11/2014

Back to the modelling side of this project and the windows in the side of the hatch. When the ship was converted for passengers the main hatch was raised by 23 inches to give plenty of head room in the saloon and seven windows were fitted on each side. Using the photos and the drawing I produced I marked out each of the 26mm x 19mm window positions. Then I drilled a series of holes inside the area to be removed and filed the out the hole to the marked lines.

The window frames are brass etch I had made and I cut them from the fret and filed away the support lugs before gluing each one in place with a dab of two part epoxy glue in each corner of the frame. With the windows fitted I moved on to fitting the angle section around the top of the hatch using 2.5mm plastic angle section. Each of the 45 degree angles was carefully cut and test fitted before gluing them in place. Then I cut and fitted 39 chock brackets onto the angle section each one being placed at a slight angle. These are to hold down the tarpaulin that covers the hatch.

Above one window on each side is a small handle which I bent to shape from a piece of 1mm OD brass and made two holding brackets from the 2.5mm angled plastic. These were glued in place over the window with liquid poly.

Now I was able to paint the red sections on the hatch and the main superstructure. First I mixed a pink colour and applied that to give a consistent colour before applying the red top coats.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 November 16, 2014, 10:24:32
Update 69: 16/11/2014

This week I fitted the two rear deck lights and airbrushed the rear deck green. The base coat was a 50:50 mix of green and white. When this had dried I sprayed the top coat of 100% green. I have also sprayed the black on the top half of the hatch.

Then I airbrushed the funnel red and hand painted the black. The roof of the engine room casing is also hand painted black.

Lastly I finished the cowl vents by hand painting the red inside the cowls.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 November 27, 2014, 13:10:38
Update 70: 27/11/2014

I have been working on the inside of the wheelhouse, by painting all the various fittings found inside. First I airbrushed the inside with a dark brown and then hand painted the various bits.

I have also started making the steering chain channels from 4mm wide plastic channel and a piece of grate embossed plastic for the covers.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Model Tug Man December 02, 2014, 04:50:24
Progressing nicely, Tiny.

: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 December 09, 2014, 13:45:01
Update 71: 09/12/2014

With most of the inside fittings complete in the wheelhouse I could now start to build the top section with all the windows. To start with I went back to my CAD drawing to check all the measurements and printed out the front and side elevations. The wheelhouse is made of square section uprights with the window frames fitted in between. I cut 4mm square lime strip into 50mm long sections to form the main uprights and starting in the four corners glued them in place.

With the corners uprights in place I then braced them with more sections of 4mm square lime wood around the top. Now I could mark the positions of the intermediate uprights and glue them in place to form all the window positions.

The first panel actually has a wooden panel instead of glass so I cut a piece of 1mm thick lime sheet to size to fit inside the frame. Then I lined the edges with one piece of 4mm x 0.5mm lime strip along the bottom edge and three pieces of 2mm x 0.5mm lime strip on the other three edges. I repeated this on the other side of the panel before fitting it in place.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: sea monkey December 09, 2014, 18:50:49
Great build, well done.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 December 16, 2014, 09:59:04
Update 72: 16/12/2014

Continuing on with the wheelhouse the next stage was to start to make the individual window frames. I spent some time thinking and scratching my head on how to make these delicate items. I had purchased some 4mm x 0.5mm and 2mm x 0.5mm lime wood to make the frames from. Eventually I came up with the idea of cutting some 1mm thick plasticard and slotting it between the uprights of the window. Then I could place the lime wood strip onto the plasticard and glue in place with wood PVA glue, hoping the glue would only stick the wood and not the plastic.

With the plastic fitted snugly between the frames I could now cut a piece of 4mm x 0.5mm to form the bottom of the frame. With this glued in place two upright sections from the 2mm x 0.5mm lime wood were glued in postion. To finish off another piece of the 2mm wide lime wood was glued on top. Slowly I worked on each frame in turn until all thirteen windows were complete.

At this stage I decided to hand paint the inside of the wheelhouse the creamy yellow colour whilst I could still gain access to the inside.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: fastfaz December 16, 2014, 12:35:01
Hi Tiny,
     What a great idea! and relatively simple to do, up to now I have been making small timber individual frames, painting inside the wheelhouse then glueing the clear plastic inside and then the small windows on the outside after they are stained and varnished. Your method seems an awful lot easier (try holding the little frames together with mitred joints). Keep the tips coming really appreciate them.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 January 29, 2015, 11:56:42
Update 73: 29/01/2015

With all the windows of the wheelhouse completed I started on the roof by cutting a piece of 1mm thick plasticard to size and glued pieces of 2.5mm angle plastic around the edge. Then I placed it on top of the wheelhouse and marked the inside edge. Down the centre I glued a piece of 4mm square line wood to form the support beam. Next I cut forty eight strips of 4mm x 0.5mm Lime wood to plank either side of the beam.

With the inside of the roof completely planked I then painted it to match the rest of the wheelhouse.Mounted on the ceiling of the wheelhouse are some of the modern navigation aids found on many modern ships. Using the photos I had I searched the internet to find any brochures to give me details of the size of each item. I was lucky to find all three of the instruments so I could draw them to scale on my PC. The first item I made was the SAT Nav unit with its small LCD screen. I used 1mm thick sheet plastic to make the screen and three pieces of 2mm thick plastic for the rear section. The bracket is made from thin brass sheet bent to shape.

I have also made the two radio sets from bits of plastic. To make the items look more like the actual items I copied the front faces of the radio sets from online photos and printed them out at the size I needed. I cut out each panel and glued them in place.

With each item completed I then glued them to the inside of the roof. The image on the SAT Nav I copied from my own SAT Nav unit and printed it out. It is of the 'Sound of Jura' where the ship regularly sails.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 January 29, 2015, 12:00:11
Update 74: 29/01/2015

To finish off the interior of the wheelhouse I searched on the internet and found some charts of the Western Isles of Scotland, pasted them into a WORD document at the size I required and printed them out. After cutting them out I placed them in the open draw and on top of the chart table. Then I found some charts showing diagrams of Surface to Air Signals used. Again these were printed out and glued in placed adjacent to the chart table along with the white fuse box.

Now all I had to do was to fix all the fittings in place starting with the ships wheel, then the chain cover plates and the reversing lever.

On the outside of the wheelhouse are four bulkhead lights which are clear LED's inserted inside a small section of brass tube.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 January 29, 2015, 12:02:56
Update 74: 29/01/2015

Just a few photos this week. Lots of painting been done.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 February 01, 2015, 09:02:00
Update 75: 01/02/2015

At the start of the week I sat down and made a list of all the items I still needed to make. It is quite a long list but at least I can tick off each item as I make it. So this week I have finished the two life raft containers, including self printed decals and hold down straps. The two name boards that sit on top of the engine room casing. I used Autocad to draw up the letters and get the spacing correct. Then I exported it as a bitmap file and loaded it into word for printing onto the Decal sheet I produced. The two board a plastic sheet with brass channel at the ends. After painting black I applied the decal to each board. I have also made three aerials that fit onto the wheel house as well as the flag pole at the rear of the wheel house.

Even though the ship was originally built in 1943 it has been modernised and fitted with a radar system. It sits at the top of the tripod mast mounted on the wheel house. Firstly I drew up the tripod section on the computer to get all the angles and sizes correct. Then I cut the brass sections and soldered the central section together.

Using a simple jig to hold the central section in place I was able to set up the two support uprights and temporary tack the top flat sections in place before removing them to soldering the joints. Then I reassembled the uprights to the central section to position the two feet and glued them in place with cyano.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 February 08, 2015, 10:54:56
Update 76: 08/02/2015

The next item on the list I have chosen to make is the wheelhouse ladder. I initially drew up the design on the computer and printed it out. To start with I cut out the top step from a piece of 1mm thick brass sheet. Next I cut two lengths of brass 2.5mm x 90mm long to form the sides. From each of the two side pieces I cut a short 5mm long section and soldered them to the the step section. Having marked out the six rungs I drilled 1mm diameter holes for the rungs to slot into. The two sides and rungs were slotted together in a wooden jig and then soldered together.

The top step and ladder were then bolted together using 1mm OD nut and bolts with a 0.8mm pitch thread. The ladder was then positioned on the model to get the correct angle, which is almost vertical. This allowed me to work out the angles and bend the two handrails to the correct shape before soldering them in place. To finish it off I made the two fixing brackets and soldered them in place at the end of the handrails. To fix the ladder in place two 1mm OD holes were drilled either side of the door to slot the handrails into.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: 2tugboats February 08, 2015, 16:22:20
Thank you Tiny. I just finished walking about the stern deck of your ship. I looked up and into
the wheel house, eyeing the fine wheel. I was able to snag a new way that I am going to use
from your ladder for the making of my next one.

And, thank you for suggesting your pictures and ideas for planking hulls - excellent.

Looking good Tiny,
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 February 15, 2015, 11:17:08
Update 77: 15/02/2015

Continuing on with the build I wanted to start on the gangway and after looking closely at my photo I noticed a label stating the company who supplied it. I did a search on the net and found the website of the Tyne Gangway Company and some information on the gangways they make. This along with my photos helped me draw up a plan and elevation that I printed out to aid in construction. I decided to use plasticard to form the basic structure. Using a sheet of embossed plasticard I cut out the bottom sections of each of the steps and glued then into position. Then I built up the two side sections to give the height of the steps.

I was then able to cut and glue the top sections of the steps in position before cutting out the angled side sections and gluing them in place. Next I made the six stanchions from brass rod, soldering two 2mm OD brass ringlets, one on top and the other half way up the stanchion. The stanchion bases are from brass tube soldered to a flat section of brass before inserting the stanchion in and soldering them together. The stanchions were glued in place and I made the two wheels from clear plastic rod and fastened them in place with a 1mm OD nut and bolt.

To finish off I undercoated it with grey primer and then sprayed it with an aluminium finish paint. I Used some white coloured rigging string soaked in a 50:50 mix of grey acrylic paint and water to make the rope hand railing. Once dried I rubbed in pencil graphite to give it a well used look. The ropes were then thread through the ringlets and fastened in place.

The gang way is stored on the engine room platform and is lowered into position when in dock.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Calimero February 15, 2015, 14:03:50
Outstanding work as always !
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 February 22, 2015, 11:47:26
Update 78: 22/02/2015

To start with I cut a 150mm length of brass angle and filed a chamfer at each end. Then I cut a length of 3mm wide brass strip and set them up in a wooden jig and soldered them together. This formed the basis of the steering gear cover. The four legs were cut from brass angle and soldered to a square brass section and attached to the D shaped top section.

Next I started to make the planks, firstly by cutting an 8mm wide strip of wood down to 6mm on a circular disc saw. The first plank was cut to length and the end chamfered so it fit into position inside the D frame. Then I placed a 0.5mm thick plastic spacer next to the plank and placed the second plank in place. I repeated the process until all five planks fitted in place individually cutting and shaping each plank in turn.

Before final assembly the frame was painted black and the planks treated with a 50:50 mix of brown paint and water.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 February 22, 2015, 11:49:46
Update 78 continued

With the steering gear cover completed I started to make the steering gear wheel covers.

The covers were cut from sheet brass and filed to shape. Then the details were added using small pieces of plasticard cut and filed to shape before adding the small nuts on top. These covers will stop the steering chain jumping off the wheels when in operational

I have also made the Fairlead support brackets from pieces of plasticard.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: 2tugboats February 22, 2015, 15:40:19
Thank you Tiny. . .the inspiration I receive from seeing your prime work helps me to refine
the efforts on my projects. I especially like the ladder design you researched and built.
I fitted and welded many real ladders for applications in the ship yard but I have never
seen a design as well thought out as the one you chose.

A pleasure Tiny,
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Model Tug Man February 23, 2015, 05:56:25
Awesome work, Tiny. Truly impressive build.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 March 06, 2015, 13:16:58
Update 79: 06/03/2015

I wanted to do some more 3D printing and the life raft on the main hatch looked like a good item to design and have printed. It has six sides and rounded edges so would be reasonably straight forward to draw up on the computer.

With the design complete the STL file was produced and checked for errors before being uploaded to a printing bureau for production. The item was printed in White strong Flexible plastic with a polished finish which has a slight texture to the surface that would represent the finish of the actual life raft.

After inspecting the raft I highlighted with a pencil the holes for the positions of the eyelets along the side and then drilled them out with a small drill. Each eyelet was made by bending a length of brass wire into a U shape around a 2mm OD drill and gluing each one in position.

The raft was given a couple of coats of white spray primer before finishing of with Humbrol Acrylic Orange, thinned and applied with the airbrush.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: tug-arlyn-nelson April 12, 2015, 17:04:16
The old expression, " what separates the men from the boys"  would be apt here I think!  Looking at work like this makes my efforts seem feeble by comparison!  You must have the patience of Job and the skills to accompany!  Beautiful work.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Kev30 April 13, 2015, 02:12:48
After seeing this and also watching a 3D printer perform formthe first time last weekend what 3D printer did you use to undertake the life-raft? As that looks just the part on your puffer.

: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 April 14, 2015, 11:57:25
To answer your question Kev30, I use a company called shapeways to produce the life raft.  They are an online company that I upload the STL file to and they access it and then print it in whatever material I have chosen from the vast range they offer.



: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 April 14, 2015, 12:06:32

Thanks for your comments.  I have been following your build and it is a fine looking ship with lots of detail, should look great on the water.

: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 April 18, 2015, 00:03:34
Update 80: 18/04/2015

The first stage to painting the hull was to apply several layers of undercoat using red oxide car spray paint. I left this to dry over night to allow it to harden properly before applying a top coat of red spray paint.

Again this was left some time to harden off before I started to mask off the waterline. Using Tamiya 6mm wide masking tape I run the tape along the waterline on both sides. Then I covered the lower section of the hull with plain white paper to protect the red area of the hull. I also masked off the main deck area to protect the bulwarks.

The top section of the hull was given a number of coats of matt black car spray before finishing with two coats of Tamiya TS-29 Satin Black spray paint. This was left to dry for about half an hour before I removed the all the masking tape and paper. At this stage the paint is dry but still 'soft' and a good clean edge is achieved.

The hull was left overnight to allow the paint to harden off.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 May 03, 2015, 07:37:08
Update 81: 03/05/2015

With the base colours of the hull applied the next step was to apply the white trim on the top of the bulwarks and along the rubbing strips. I purchased 2 metres of 2mm wide automotive pin stripe and applied it along the rubbing strips on each side of the hull. To paint the top of the bulwark masking tape was applied along the edges to be protected and thin coats of white acrylic paint applied with a brush.  When I was happy with the density of the white paint the masking tape was carefully removed.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 May 03, 2015, 22:00:02
Update 82: 04/05/2015

To finish off the main hatch it was time to make the tarpaulin that covers the hatch boards. Some time ago I found an article on a military modelling website that described how to make tarps using tissue and water based bathroom sealant. Here is a link to the article showing the basic techniques I used.

http://www.militarymodelling.com/news/article/making-realistic-tarps/3310 (http://www.militarymodelling.com/news/article/making-realistic-tarps/3310)

I obtained a piece of tissue paper large enough to cover the entire hatch and mixed up a solution of the sealant and water and applied it to both sides of the tissue paper ensuring that the tissue was fully soaked through. I left it to dry overnight and then ironed it flat. The next step was to paint it so I mixed some green and grey acrylic paint applying it to both sides of the tissue and left it to dry.

I measured the size of the hatch and cut an over sized section of the tarp which allowed for the edges to be folded over ad tuck in behind the wedge brackets. Before fitting I folded the tarp up to add creases. Now I fitted it neatly tucking the edges behind each of the wedge brackets until it was completely covering the hatch.

The two hatch runners where fitted and the sliding hatch cover glued in place behind the hatch door.

At the rear of the hatch the life raft is placed on top of four tyres and a small bench made from some planks of wood placed in front.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: tug-arlyn-nelson May 04, 2015, 07:17:12
Amazing detail,  just great!!
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 May 10, 2015, 08:44:48
Update 83: 10/5/2015

The engine room deck needed to be painted so I applied two coats of thinned black acrylic paint. Now I could assemble the funnel and add the four stays that hold it in position. Then I added the steam pipe and whistle assemblies. The two life rafts containers were then glued in place either side of the funnel.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: tug-arlyn-nelson May 10, 2015, 12:01:51
Beyond cool!
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 May 16, 2015, 22:01:53
Update 84: 17/5/2015

The handrail stanchions I had had made some time back when I had the first set of brass etch fret produced back in August 2013. It was now time to fit them in place around the stern of the ship. Each one was removed from the fret, the excess tang filed away and placed in the pre-drilled hole in the deck. Once I was happy with the vertical alignment I glued them in place.

Each stanchion has a 1mm hole at the top and a 0.75mm hole at the mid point to pass the rails through. The first length of 1mm OD brass rod was bent at an angle so it fitted into a hole drilled into the top of the bulwark and then threaded through the holes in the top of the stanchions. The top rail is split into three pieces of rod, so I trimmed them so the join would be at one of the stanchions, therefore hiding it. Each of the joints along the top rail and stanchion was then soldered to secure them in place.

The middle rail was then threaded and soldered in place where required. With the handrails complete two coats of thinned white satin finish paint was applied to finish them off.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: 2tugboats May 17, 2015, 20:53:16
Beautiful work Tiny. Thank you again for the 50th time. . .your pictures of details have shown
me how to finish off a tug project I am working on. I have a bare pilot house deck. Your lifeboat
containers and stack stays are exactly what I have been seeking for the same ideas. If I can come
even close to your workmanship, I will have a fine looking and serious pilot house deck also.

I would suppose you are working over your next project in your tugboat mind. I also am doing
mental gymnastics with my new tugboat design. . .I even have my work table cleaned and ready
to accept keel. . .

Thank you for sharing Tiny,

: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Model Tug Man May 18, 2015, 06:14:59
Beautiful work, Tiny.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 May 18, 2015, 08:39:17
Thanks for your comments, I am only to happy to share my build with you and glad to hear that you are can use my ideas on your own projects.  I still have a bit to do on this model so haven't decided what to build next, but I am always looking for interesting subjects.


: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Model Tug Man May 20, 2015, 10:25:50
Do you plan to do a build book like you did on the TID? That was a lovely bit of publication.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 May 21, 2015, 12:08:11
I have made a start on doing a build book like the one I published for the TID.  I will finish it off when the model is complete.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 May 23, 2015, 10:44:22
Update 85: 23/05/2015

At the front of the main hatch is a set of steps for getting on top of the hatch. To make this a jig of some sort was needed. First a piece of wood was cut the same width as the tread plates. Then four angled slots equally spaced were cut int the top face of the block. The tread plate were cut from a length of 5mm x 0.5mm brass, each one 15mm wide and positioned in the slots. Next two lengths of 2mm x 0.5mm brass were cut to form the side pieces.

On either side of the block a strip of wood was glued in place to support the side piece which were pinned in place. All the joints were then soft soldered. To make the soldering easier some of the wood behind each step was removed so that the tip of the iron could properly heat each joint.

On one side is a hand rail which was shaped from a length of 1mm OD brass and also soldered in position. Now the assembly was removed from the jig and any excess solder filed away. The top bracket was made from some more 2mm wide brass. Holes were drilled on each side and a thin brass rod passed through to hold it in place.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 May 24, 2015, 23:19:41
Update 86: 25/052015

It is now time to start on the rigging of the main mast. The first items to make are the two sets of three turnbuckles that hold the ratlines to the bulwarks. Each one is made of up of three sections. the end sections were made first, one with a ring end and the other a U section. These were soldered to a 10mm length of 1mm threaded rod as shown in the photo.

The centre section was cut from a piece of copper tube to a length of 14mm. Then a 1mm OD nut was threaded onto each of the end sections and placed into the copper tubes and soldered in place. Through the ringed end section a shackle was fitted, purchased from http://www.prime-miniatures.co.uk who specialise in miniature nut, bolts and other fittings.

At the top of each turnbuckle is a pulley block that holds the rigging in place. First I turned a pulley from 3mm OD brass rod and cut it to a length of 1mm. Then a template for the teardrop shape sides was made from plasticard with the two holes drilled through in the correct positions. This was to be used to mark out each one onto the sheet brass. Once marked out it was roughly cut out with scissors and then filed to shape. The two 1mm OD holes were then drilled.

Each turnbuckle was then assembled in place with thin wire used to temporary fix then in position so the cross support beam could be measured. The beam is a piece of brass rod bent at each end with another section soldered in the centre.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: tug-arlyn-nelson May 25, 2015, 17:26:46
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 June 05, 2015, 23:35:12
Update 87: 06/06/2015

Continuing on with the rigging it was time to start making some pulleys blocks. After some thought I decided to make them out of sheet brass soldered together. The first block has two pulley wheels whilst the other has three. I turned five wheels on the lathe from 5mm OD brass rod with a 1mm OD hole in the centre and a groove around the circumference. Each one is only 1mm wide. To make the blocks I cut some brass sheet into 10 x 6mm pieces. These would form the sides. Then I cut some brass section 1mm thick to form the pieces between the side sections. Basically each block is made up of laminates of brass.

A simple jig was made from scraps of wood to hold each piece in place and then they were soldered together. The two wheel pulley is made of five pieces and the three wheel pulley has seven. With the basic block made the next stage was to drill the hole for pulley shaft and then file it to shape. To finish off the eyelet was soldered to the top and the pulley wheels fitted. The three wheel pulley has an additional loop soldered to the bottom to fasten the pulley rope to.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: tug-arlyn-nelson June 06, 2015, 08:48:15
Having a hard time wrapping my head around this level of patience and detail!  Stunning!
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 June 06, 2015, 21:41:09
I just enjoy building a model that's as close to the original that I can possibly make it.  Sometimes the hard thing is figuring out how to make an item with the materials and tools at hand.  A good source of photos of the ship is a good start so I can study them before making anything.  I have probably spent as many hours looking at the photos I have as it has taken to build the model itself.  With over 200 photos of the ship to study and even then I sometimes wish I had more from different angles just to make sure  am modelling the item correctly.  That's when I search the net to try and find more to confirm any little details.  I started this model in September 2012, so it is coming up to nearly three years of building and I still estimate that at least another six months before I can see it finished.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 June 14, 2015, 09:23:05
Update 88: 14/06/2015

Guess what? I've been making more pulley blocks and shackles, using similar techniques as previously described.

The single block directs the rope to the main winch for lifting and lowering the derrick. The rope through the double blocks hold the derrick in place once in position.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: tug-arlyn-nelson June 17, 2015, 19:17:16
Hi Tiny,   Is the top pic in post 154 of real rigging parts or is that some of your handiwork?  It looks almost too real to be modeled. Thanks!
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 June 19, 2015, 12:00:20
Yes the top photo in post 154 are the actual pulley blocks and the second is my modelling attempt.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: tug-arlyn-nelson June 19, 2015, 13:48:49
Thanks Tiny, I know you are good but that just seemed to real to be modeled!
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 June 19, 2015, 22:52:44
Taking a break from making pulley blocks I decided to test out the VIC 32 to check everything was working correctly.

Here is a video to view.

https://youtu.be/esD-fyLee3s (https://youtu.be/esD-fyLee3s)

: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: tug-arlyn-nelson June 20, 2015, 07:08:06
I beautiful piece of work Tiny, magic!!
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: 2tugboats June 21, 2015, 09:54:47
Congratulations Tiny on a very successful launching. Perfect performance and
you didn't even have to experience it rolling over or taking on water and sinking.

Thank you for sharing your accumulation of efforts on the first wetting of the hull.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 July 12, 2015, 08:39:52
Update 89: 12/07/2015

To replace the temporary line I had in place I obtained some 0.5mm OD stainless steel wire. Each of the lines was made to length and wrapped around the bottom 'Deadeye' and cord wrapped around to secure it.

At the top an eyelet was made from a section of brass rod and the wire wrapped around the outside edge and secured in place with a small section of aluminium tube squashed flat with a pair of pliers.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 July 19, 2015, 10:50:40
Update 90 19/07/15

To start the steam pipe from the engine room to the main winch o n the bow I decided to make it in three sections. The first section from the engine room bulkhead was bent to shape from a 1.5mm OD brass rod. Then two flanges were turned on the lathe and soldered to each end.

The second section runs alongside the hatch and a third flange was turned on the lathe and soldered to one end. The third section runs from the front of the hatch at an angle to the front of the winch. There is an inline valve at the front of the winch. The main body of the valve was turned from 6mm OD perspex rod using a file to form the ball section in between the two flanges. Then I turned the flange for the hand wheel. Then the support bracket was made from a small piece of 2mm wide brass strip bent to shape and soldered to the top of the brass flange.

The 1mm OD hand wheel shaft was then glued in place and a small etch brass hand wheel soldered to the top of the shaft. With all three sections made I then added the lagging by wrapping each piece with rigging string. The pipe is supported with seven U shaped brass brackets soldered onto 1mm OD brass rod.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: sea monkey July 19, 2015, 13:55:56
I have a copy of your TID book and refer to it often to see how the experts do it. Look forward to the next one.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 July 20, 2015, 10:23:24
I have made a start on the  book for VIC 32 but it won't be finished until I finish the boat.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 August 09, 2015, 07:14:10
Update 91: 09/08/2015

The dingy on the VIC 32 is a traditional clinker planked boat so I decided to make a wooden plug to lay the planks over. Three 12mm thick blocks of balsa wood were cut and glued together to form a block 36mm thick to shape the hull out of. Then I cut and sanded the shape of the keel followed by the shape of the outside to give the basic shape of the hull.

After a little more sanding the final shape of the hull plug was complete so I then spray painted it with numerous coats of oxide red paint before finishing it off with a coat of white paint. The paint will stop the PVA glue I will be using sticking to the plug, hopefully.

With the plug complete the first step was to add the keel to build the rest of the boat around. The keel is made of three laminates of 2mm x 1mm lime wood strip glued together with PVA glue and held in place with pins and masking tape.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 August 09, 2015, 07:16:22
Update 91: 09/08/2015 continued.

With the keel set in position I could start to plank the hull around the plug. Starting with a 5mm plank of strip wood each plank was cut to length and then shaped to fit the hull. The planks are narrower at the ends and overlapped by 1mm to give the clinker built effect.

I have worked on both sides of the keel so to even out any stresses that may result whilst building the hull cutting and gluing each plank in place on each side before moving on to the next row down.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Model Tug Man August 16, 2015, 07:57:55
Nice job on the little boats, Tiny. I may have to give that a try on my next model. How do you think it would work on a double ender???

I was looking at some not so old Marine Quarterlys I have on my 1:1 boat and ran across a History of Vic 32 in the Winter 2011 edition (AKA #4). Did not know whether you were aware of this or not.

Keep up the wonderful work and also looking forward to your build book.


: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 August 16, 2015, 09:11:44
Model Tug Man,

The principle of construction would be the same for a double ender, the only difference would be that the keel would have to wrap around both bows.

I was not aware of the Marine Quarterly you talk about but there is a detailed history of VIC 32 on the save the puffer website which I often visit.


: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 August 16, 2015, 09:14:51
Update 92:16/08/2015

Continuing on with the building of the dingy the rest of the planks have been cut, shaped and glued in place to finish the basic hull. The next step was to slowly ease it off the plug to reveal the inside of the hull. Next the transom was cut and shaped to fit in the hull.

Now I could start to fit out the inside starting with the keel cut from a 2mm wide strip of wood and glued down the centre of the hull. Then I glued a 2mm wide strip of wood along each side of the inside top edge of the hull.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 August 23, 2015, 04:05:05
Update 93: 23/08/2015

With the basic hull complete the next stage is to start fitting out the inside starting with the wooden ribs. First I determined the spacing of each of the ribs and marked them onto the keel. Each rib is cut from a piece of 2mm wide, 0.5mm thick strip wood which I soaked in water to soften it a little and pressed it against the inside of the hull to form the shape before cutting it to length and gluing them in place.

Next the seating was made starting with the three seats running across the beam of the hull. Each was cut to length and glued into position. Then I measured the distances between each and cut strips from 10mm wide wood and with a bit of fiddling about got each one to fit along the inside edge of the hull to form the side seating.

The floor decking is made with five strips of 4mm wide, 1mm thick strip woodcut to a length of 100mm and glued to three longitudinal strips of wood with a 1mm gap between each.

To finish of the seats the corner and vertical strengtheners were made and glued in place before the top strip of wood for mounting the rollocks on, was glued in place.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: tug-arlyn-nelson August 23, 2015, 08:16:25
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 August 29, 2015, 08:06:11
Thanks for your comment, here are a few pictures taken today were VIC 32 is on display on the Ship Modelling Society stand at this years Model Boat Convention at Haydock Park Racecourse, Northwest England.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Model Tug Man September 02, 2015, 12:04:13

You have done a beautiful job once again. She is a fine ship. Well done.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: tug-arlyn-nelson September 02, 2015, 18:36:25
An amazing amount of work and skill on display here. Fantastic!
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 September 13, 2015, 03:36:52
I have not been able to do any more on the VIC 32 as I have been away on holiday for the last two weeks. Whilst away I did organise my holiday to meet up with the VIC 32 at Banavie descending Neptune's Staircase at the end of the Calendionian Canal near Fort William in Scotland. I was able to get some more photo's of the ship, especially some of the little details I had missed on the previous two visits. The ship waited until 3:30pm to start the descent through the locks, taking over ninety minutes to get through the eight locks and pass through the road and rail swing bridges. It was fascinating to watch.

Here is short clip I made of the VIC 32 passing through the swing bridges at the botton of Neptunes Staircase.

: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 September 21, 2015, 11:04:05
Update 94: 21/09/2015

Continuing on with the dinghy the next item to make was the Suzuki 5hp outboard motor mounted on the transom. I searched the internet to find some pictures I could use to help build it. Using the photo's I had and found I sketched up a drawing to build from. The outboard is made from plasticard and metal tube and then painted with metalic paint. The decals where then applied after I made them using my PC and inkjet decal paper.

Next I carved two oars from a length of 10mm wide strip wood, cutting and sanding them to shape. Then I mixed a watery brown wash and applied it to the inside and outside of the hull letting it soak into the wood. Once dry I gave it two coats of gloss acrylic clear varnish.

To finish off I made a small petrol can from plasticard and painted it red, mounted the outboard to the transom and added the petrol pipe, then placed the oars on top of the duck boards.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: sea monkey September 21, 2015, 13:09:58
What a fantastic job. That clinker dinghy (and outboard) is perfect.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: tug-arlyn-nelson September 23, 2015, 19:37:30
Its all quite unbelievable to me, the amount of detail here!
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 October 11, 2015, 10:10:35
Update 95: 11/10/2015

To finish the hatch windows I needed to glaze them, so using some clear plastic sheet I cut each of the fourteen 26mm x 19mm panes and placed them behind the window frames. Next I had to add the cutains. First I drew out a sheet of green coloured rectangles on the PC and printed them onto some photo paper.

Once printed each was cut out and folded using the lines I printed on sheet above each of the coloured squares.

Then I glued two behind each window using white PVA glue.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: tug-arlyn-nelson October 12, 2015, 18:23:54
Oy!  Amazing!
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 October 25, 2015, 01:41:40
Update 96: 25/10/2015

The welding set consists of two oxygen bottles and one acetylene mounted on the side of the engine room. To make the bottles brass tubes were cut to length, with the ends turned on the lathe and soldered in place before finishing off in the lathe to form the rounded ends. The two gass regulators were made from pieces of brass rod soldered together.

The welding torch was made from brass rod for the main body with two small tubes soldered to the end for the gas hoses to slot into. The hoses are made from red and blue 1mm OD electrical wire held together with small strips of masking tape placed at 20mm intervals. The bottles were painted black for oxygen and maroon for acetylene and held in place with two brackets made from brass strip painted black.

On the opposite side of the engine room four angled brackets were mounted and a hose wrapped around them made from yellow electrical wire. The connector on the end was turned on the lathe with a 1mm hole drilled down the centre to thread the wire into.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: 2tugboats November 05, 2015, 19:32:15
I have to comment on your welding set. A most appropriate part of every ship I
have worked on. I spent about 40 years fitting and welding pipe and so your
creation of a set, made "shop shape", brings back many memories.

Very nice Tiny,
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 November 15, 2015, 07:43:44
Update 97: 15/11/2015

Just some photos of some additional details, such as tyres, radar, and brushes.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 November 15, 2015, 07:45:45
Update 97 Continued: 15/11/2015

and more photos of the dinghy mast/sail and lifebelt marker bouys. Getting closer to the end.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: mike_victoriabc November 15, 2015, 07:51:18
Very nicely done!
Thanks for the building details as well as the photos.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: tugnut November 15, 2015, 08:28:51
Cracking build Tiny lots of great detail.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: tug-arlyn-nelson November 15, 2015, 08:52:07
A work of art!
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: sea monkey November 15, 2015, 11:51:09
What's that QR code doing there?
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: tug-arlyn-nelson November 15, 2015, 11:57:18
What's that QR code doing there?

????  Don't know what that means.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 November 16, 2015, 11:10:09
The QR code is mounted on each side of the hatch and can be scanned with a mobile phone to link directly to the Save the Puffer website were holidays can be booked aboard.

Here is a picture of one as displayed on the actual boat.


: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: tug-arlyn-nelson November 16, 2015, 11:59:06
Thanks Tiny!  Had no idea what that was even called, seen them around here and there, always wondered. Now I know!  I think with my dinosaur "mobile phone", I would be lucky to take a pic, let alone scan anything!
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 December 20, 2015, 11:06:50
Update 98: 20/12/2015

To finish of the hulls protection I now had to make two basket fenders that are hung from the rear hand rails either side of the rudder. Having studied the photos I had I decided that I could weave them using some 0.5mm diameter enamelled copper winding wire.

To start with I drew a simple pattern on the PC as a guide and printed it out. Next I started to cut lengths of the wire in eight groups of four and taped them in place on the paper pattern.

Now I could start to weave across alternating each as I went along, with a drop of cyano glue to hold them temporary in place. I would cut ten lengths of wire and weave them which covers about 5mm in depth. A total depth of 30mm was completed before removing from the paper backing.

The next stage was to roll the weaved mat around a plastic tube and glue the two ends together. Then I snipped and bent sone of the wire ends to give a distressed and well used feel.

To finish off each one was painted and hung from the rear railings.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 December 20, 2015, 11:08:32
Update 98: 20/12/2015 continued
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: tug-arlyn-nelson December 20, 2015, 11:11:42
That boat belongs in the museum!
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 December 21, 2015, 12:46:50
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 April 03, 2016, 09:14:36
Update 99: 03/04/2016

Finally the day for the maiden voyage of the VIC arrived today after three and a half years since starting the build. Here are a few photo's of it on the water.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: olscuzbut April 03, 2016, 10:03:06
Very very nice Tiny.  Gotta wonder if the wheelhouse was an afterthought having it behind the funnel back in the day when they were built.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: 2tugboats April 03, 2016, 16:04:42
Congratulations Tiny on an as near to perfect as a model can be. If I were to see real
little 3 inch tall deck workers on deck I wouldn't be surprised.  And, I bet she also
sails perfectly.

Excellent Tiny,
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 April 04, 2016, 11:41:16
The layout of the engine room with the vertical boiler in front of the compound engine dictates the position of the funnel.  The boiler is close to the main hatch bulkhead giving the hold its maximum size for the cargo.  Therefore the steering position, which was originally open to the elements has to be behind the funnel.  These little vessels were only 66ft long and it was not until the likes of Moonlight at 88ft in length appeared with its fully designed enclosed wheelhouse positioned in front of the funnel with a horizontal boiler that forward visibilty improved.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: tug-arlyn-nelson April 04, 2016, 21:10:07
Just beautiful!
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 April 06, 2016, 11:17:08
Here is a video of the VIC 32 sailing for the first time on the open water.

: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: tug-arlyn-nelson April 06, 2016, 20:07:15
That's great!  Looks like a successful sea trial. It looks great on the water. Nicely done.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Kev30 April 16, 2016, 02:41:32
Great job you did on your VIC 32 puffer Tiny just in case you missed the program last Thursday night like myself the VIC 32 featured in a story of the Clyde Puffer called "Scotlands Vital Spark" which is being repeated next Tuesday 19/04 BBC 4 at 23.00. Apparently its a great program to watch with some lovely footage and shows one being restored to full working order.

I hope this is of interest
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 April 20, 2016, 11:30:27
Now that the building of VIC 32 is complete I have put together an ebook containing my research, ship photos, drawings and some pictures of the model sailing.  It is available to download from the link provided.


or visit my web page at follow the link at the bottom of the page.


: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: tug-arlyn-nelson April 24, 2016, 19:03:15
What a fantastic job Tiny!  Thanks again for all of this.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 April 25, 2016, 09:06:56
Glad you enjoyed the read.

: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Model Tug Man May 02, 2016, 08:44:54
Beautiful job, Tiny. I will be printing your book to add to my modeling library. If it is anything like the TID book it will be a welcome addition. Well done.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: 2tugboats May 02, 2016, 20:50:41
Excellent Tiny, you really know how to post and complete a model build. Thank you very much.

: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 May 06, 2016, 09:55:20
I'm glad that my ebook will be joining your library, I hope you enjoy reading it too.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 May 11, 2016, 11:07:19
One thing was missing from the VIC 32 build and to finish off a display stand was required. I have been thinking for some time on how to display the model and decided to keep it simple so not to over power the model. I drafted up some ideas on the computer and played around with different sizes and eventually chose a simple oval shaped base with pedestals to mount the model on. To start the build I drafted up the design on the computer and printed the oval base out full size. Recycling the old display stand from the Moonlight model I was able to cut two oval bases from the 4ft x 2ft piece of mahogany that is almost 2 inches thick. One base for VIC 32 and the other for the future restored Moonlight.

The printed oval plan was glued to the mahogany and roughly cut out with a hand held power jigsaw. Then the edge was sanded on my circular sander to the line on the printed plan. Then I drilled out the three M6 holes for the pedestals to locate before removing the printed plan with some white spirit. Next I routed the outside edge of the base with a 1/2 inch cove router bit. To finish the wooden base five coats of clear gloss varnish was applied.

The three pedestals I turned on the lathe from a length of 16mm OD brass bar with a 5mm OD hole drilled into the base and screw threaded with a M6 x 1 tap. The rear pedestal has a slot milled into the top to allow the keel to slide into when the model is placed on top.

The photo shows the model on display at a recent Model Ship Society meeting with the hard back copy of the book I recently produced.
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: sea monkey May 12, 2016, 11:47:07
Perfect. What's next?
: Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
: Tiny69 May 13, 2016, 22:30:55
I have to finish the restoration of the Moonlight before I start any new builds.  I have some ideas and have been doing some research on various subjects.