Tug Forum

Specialist Types Of Tug Boat => Classic Diesel Tugs => : Calimero January 10, 2014, 08:43:49

: Robin Odin Build
: Calimero January 10, 2014, 08:43:49
Hi everyone,


As I said in my first post, I've resumed the build of a Robbe Odin kit after a 15 year "delay".

The Robbe Odin kit is based on German tugboats built by Mützelfeldtwerft (Mützelfeld Shipyards) of Cuxhaven.

The closest surviving one I've found is the Gruno V (IMO: 6907171).

Also very close is the Taucher O. Wulf 5 (IMO: 6907169) from Otto Wulf (a Towing services company also in Cuxhaven). Both were built in 1968.

Model is in 1:25 scale. Around 110cm (42-43") long.

As my build won't exactly match either, I'll probably keep the "Odin" name (or maybe "Wotan", to keep a reference to the original model while changing it).

I went to my parents' (where the boat and workshop are !) mid-November to assess the situation and do some basic work but that was only a three-day stay.

When I came back in Paris (where I live), I took some "homework" with me: there's a hatch giving you access to the rudder servo. The hatch itself is molded ABS. But on top of it is a duckboard (not sure with the English term). Duckboard is basic (just small wooden pieces glued with cyano). And then some brass wire to top if off !

See attached picture.

Took me probably 20 hours overall to finish that assembly (damn it I'm slow). And it's far from perfect. Instead of soldering the brass wire (I feared the plastic hatch would melt) I cheated and used some plastic tubing as a "sheath".

I also painted the small rigid-hulled inflatable boat, a single injection molded part. Well actually if was more like : 20 minutes of painting, 2 hours of masking and then again 20 minutes of painting.

I spent Christmas and New Year's Eve at my parents'. I had almost 10 days I could dedicate to the tug.

Here's where I'm at ...

Hull and deck were assembled 15 years ago. It's an ABS hull. Anything above deck wasn't touched, back then.

Motor mount, rudder servo mount, propshaft, kort nozzle and other "lower deck" items where all installed/glued.

There were a few problems though.

The deck paintjob looked quite horrendous. I don't remember how we painted it. Probably with a paint brush. Both the color and the finish looked quite bad.
Back in November it was thus decided to sand down, prime and paint the deck.

Now, in December, I had just finished masking the hull to ready it for painting the deck when I noticed that the paint from the hull would actually peel off ....  It seems that we weren't much better painters below deck ....   :(

I scraped the old paint off the hull. It was done in as little as 30 min ... The hull was smooth as a baby's bottom. Obviously we hadn't sanded it, let alone primed it before painting.  angry

So we sanded the hull with fine grit paper. Then I primed it with plastic primer. Then I used universal primer (which is thicker) to "fill" / get a better surface. And then ended with the red hull paint.

I used acrylic based paints from Dupli-Color (spray cans) because they are easy to find, have a half-decent selection of RAL tones (I wanted "standard" colors) in satin/mat.

Boy the number of cans that were needed .... Spray cans can get you a decent finish but half - if not more - of the paint actually ends up on the floor and covering every surface from your painting area.
Dupli-Color offers different spray nozzles. Of course, I only decided to get their nozzles assortment halfway through the painting. The wide spray nozzle really helps when painting large surfaces like a boat hull.

And of course, when I bought the last two cans in Germany (my parents are 10 mi from the border, on the Rhine), I noticed if was 1/3 cheaper there ...

Anyway, the hull was painted. I now had to trace the waterline. Not so easy, especially at the stern. But using a wood block and a L-shaped metal "stand" I managed to get the right height for my pencil.
A good hour and a half to apply masking tape and I could then paint the freeboard black.

By then I had gone through a 50m roll of 50mm masking tape, and a 50m x 19mm roll. Ha ha ha !

I also decided to redo the paint on the bullwark: outside is black, inside is grey like the deck. Again, sanding, priming, painting, masking, more painting ...

I used or will use the following colors:
- RAL 7001 "Silver grey" : deck, upper deck, stairs to upper deck, rear hatch. A little darker that I thought but still good.
- RAL 9005 "black" : freeboard, bullwark, small parts. Well, black is black...
- RAL 9010 "pure white" : superstructure/engine room, wheelhouse, winches, radar
- RAL 3020 "traffic red" : hull, FiFi equipment. Maybe a little bright for the hull (for a 1960s tug) but I didn't want to use two different tints for the hull and FiFi equipment
- RAL 1023 "traffic yellow" : mast. I haven't tried it yet so I'm not sure how it looks.

I also got some small pots of Tamiya acrylic paint in similar colors for small touches and small parts (handles, screws ...).

I essentially spent a week to get back to step one: a painted hull. Yay !
It looks better know and the paint is significantly tougher. All in all, no really a waste of time.

In the mean time, my father had put together the engine room/superstructure. We still need to finish it but the base is ready.

I completed the winch assembly for the rear part of the deck. We decided not to make it functional. I probably wouldn't have much use for it. So it was mostly painting, a little soldering and so on.

Most of the deck equipment (anchor windlass and brake, rear/main winch, rear hatch) is painted/ready and just needs to be glued or screwed in place.

The bullwark is also ready to be glued in place. I just have to file two notches to get some clearance for the main winch.

Another thing we started is the mast and all the lighting. Of course, we replaced the supplied bulbs with LEDs. LEDs are not perfect as they are directional while a bulb can illuminate "all-round". I got some wide-angle leds (110° supposedly) and the result is very decent. Significantly brighter than the bulbs.

There will be 6 light "channels" or "groups":
- deck lights, maybe on in the wheelhouse
- searchlight (on the roof of the wheelhouse) with a more directive/brighter LED
- under way: masthead, stern light, side lights red/green
- towing in progress: two mastheads (yeah I only tow > 200m  :P), yellow sternlight
- restricted maneuverability : red / white / red
- anchor lights

I'll use a RCD3003 multi-switch. Not perfect but decent enough. If I really want more control, I'll probably look into a small Arduino board to do whatever I want with the lighting.

The basic wiring of the mast is done. Before we complete if, will glue all LEDs and wires in place. The lamps which go on top of the LEDs are painted (black, inside and outside to make them completely opaque).

We'll use JST-XH Lipo 6 cells balancing cables to route the lighting cables. Connectors are small and offer 7 poles (6 channels + Gnd), so that you can easily remove the funnel/mast, for example.


I also replaced the rudder servo (a good old Graupner C507) by a newer digital high torque servo. It's wicked fast. I've added some heavy 'exponential' to my rudder channel.

I've also been able to test my smoke generator, a "Super Smoker v4" I got from some nice chap in Australia. The smoke fluid is ... quite smelly (outdoor use only !). Produces huge amounts of smoke under max voltage. I know diesel tugs only output smoke for a few seconds when throttling up. And well, diesel smoke is black. But anyway, I think smoke is still fun.  ;D

Plus the smoker is hooked to an ESC. I can adjust the "idling" smoke with a knob on my radio. And I can mix it with the throttle to get more smoke when going full throttle. Very flexible.

The smoke itself will be installed right under the funnel, in the superstructure, with some 10 cm tubing to connect if to the actual engine exhaust.


Big issue currently: we've lost the wheelhouse. The wheelhouse was an injection molded clear plastic part. You'd just mask the windows and paint it white. We haven't recovered it despite intensive SAR efforts.  :D

With all the 3D printing craze these days I tought: hey ! why not look into this ?

I decided two nights ago to google things up. I had heard of the RepRap open source printer a few years back and It seems it has come a long way. I decided to try and 3D model my wheelhouse. Apparently one of the easiest software  for basic non-engineering modeling is SketchUp which is free for personal/educational use. I downloaded it last evening and tried to "extrude" a shape similar to my missing wheelhouse. Hint: never get into this as 10 in the evening when the next day is a work day ...

I've replicated the basic shape and just "cut out" two of the windows. See the attached view.

I uploaded it to sculpteo.com , a French 3D-printing ("additive manufacturing") startup. There systems automatically comes up with the price depending on raw material, colors, shape... Dang ! More than 150 Euros .... Ouch.

I went to the post office next to my workplace, one of the three French post offices that have experimental 3D printing capabilities. They're a partnership with ... sculpteo.com (surprise !) so I didn't expect much difference in pricing. But I got to show them my crude model and ask about the windows and other openings I needed. When there's a "hollow" part, the printer actually switches to a soluble "supporting" material. Once the part is complete, it is soaked with solvent to get rid of the "temporary" material.

Well, at more than 150 Euros, it is impractical at best. I'll try and see if there's a private RepRap owner willing to help, ha ha !

If 3D printing isn't an option, I would revert to my original idea: using polycarbonate/lexan (or styrene ?) sheets and bend them in shape. Fun times ahead.

Well all this reporting is a little dry. I forgot to take pictures. Will do some next time I go to my parents'.

See ya !
: Re: Robin Odin Build
: Model Tug Man February 11, 2014, 07:20:09
Check out Shapeways for economical 3D printing:

http://www.shapeways.com/

: Re: Robin Odin Build
: Calimero February 11, 2014, 11:19:17
Check out Shapeways for economical 3D printing:

http://www.shapeways.com/

Yep, I tried that too. More "printing" options (actually lots of different techniques) but pricing is close to Sculpteo.

Anyway, I'm working my way to a 3D printer. I might be able to print whatever I want. I'm playing with Sketchup and I have to try FreeCAD for the modelling part.

Interesting and unexpected side of my RC project. :)

Thanks for your help ! :)
: Re: Robin Odin Build
: Sudbury II February 21, 2014, 15:39:13
How's it going?
: Re: Robin Odin Build
: Calimero February 21, 2014, 18:30:32
Not much going on, as the tug's 500km from me (I'm working on my springer tug (http://modeltugforum.com/index.php?topic=5536.0) here in Paris, in the mean time). I'll probably go to my parents' next weekend.

I'm working in Sketch-Up to recreate the missing wheelhouse. Might have to give FreeCAD a shot as the solid/boolean operations are only available in the "Pro" version of Sketchup.

I'll take pictures, this time !
: Re: Robin Odin Build
: Calimero February 23, 2014, 17:21:02
Well, as I miserably failed at taking pictures of my own Odin so far, here are some pics from the Robbe Catalog and from one of the two surviving tugs the Odin is based on (those I've been able to identify).

Model vs Real tugs (http://rc.noalia.fr/boats/odin/original)

(http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/robbe/tn/catalog01.jpg) (http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/robbe/catalog01.jpg)
General view

(http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/robbe/tn/catalog02.jpg) (http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/robbe/catalog02.jpg)
Rear area with main winch

(http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/robbe/tn/catalog03.jpg) (http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/robbe/catalog03.jpg)
Propulsion - single 95mm prop with steerable Kort nozzle

Odin is essentialy a replica of the Gruno V (formerly Clara) which was built in 1968 by the Mützelfed shipyards in Cuxhaven in northern Germany.

(http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/grunov/tn/grunov01.jpg) (http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/grunov/grunov01.jpg)
Gruno V underway

(http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/grunov/tn/grunov02.jpg) (http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/grunov/grunov02.jpg)
Rear area

(http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/grunov/tn/grunov03.jpg) (http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/grunov/grunov03.jpg)
Side view

(http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/grunov/tn/grunov04.jpg) (http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/grunov/grunov04.jpg)
Gruno V underway

(http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/grunov/tn/grunov05.jpg) (http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/grunov/grunov05.jpg)
Front view

(http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/grunov/tn/grunov06.jpg) (http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/grunov/grunov06.jpg)
Gruno V at the ready

She is operated by Bijma (http://www.bijmabv.com/) a Dutch towing company operating in Dutch and German ports.

Here are the specs from Bijma's site:
Name Gruno V
IMO 6907171
Length 29.60m (97ft)
Beam 8.40m (28ft)
Draft 3.80m (12ft) / 4.20m (14ft)
Power 1000kW / 1360HP
Bollard pull 23t


The other one I identified is the Taucher O. Wulf V ...
: Re: Robin Odin Build
: Calimero February 28, 2014, 17:49:10
I'm at my parents' this weekend to make some progress on the Odin and paint my springer tug.

Here are pics from work that was done back around Christmas (http://rc.noalia.fr/boats/odin/log20140102).

(http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140102/tn/hull01.jpg) (http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140102/hull01.jpg)
Hull with new paint job

(http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140102/tn/stern01.jpg) (http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140102/stern01.jpg)
Stern with Kort nozzle

(http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140102/tn/stern02.jpg) (http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140102/stern02.jpg)
Stern with Kort nozzle

(http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140102/tn/bulwark01.jpg) (http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140102/bulwark01.jpg)
Bulwark on deck

(http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140102/tn/bulwark02.jpg) (http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140102/bulwark02.jpg)
Side view with bulwark

(http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140102/tn/bow01.jpg) (http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140102/bow01.jpg)
Bow with forward deck

(http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140102/tn/bow02.jpg) (http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140102/bow02.jpg)
Waterline at the bow

(http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140102/tn/bow03.jpg) (http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140102/bow03.jpg)
Waterline at the bow

(http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140102/tn/deck01.jpg) (http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140102/deck01.jpg)
Rear deck

(http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140102/tn/rearhatch01.jpg) (http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140102/rearhatch01.jpg)
Servo hatch cover

(http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140102/tn/winch01.jpg) (http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140102/winch01.jpg)
Non-functional winch

(http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140102/tn/winch02.jpg) (http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140102/winch02.jpg)
Winch

(http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140102/tn/rhib01.jpg) (http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140102/rhib01.jpg)
Rigid-hulled inflatable boat

Progress has slowed down as we're getting into detailing work: small lights, fitting the superstructure on deck, installing the smoke generator. There's also the FiFi equipment layout we need to work on. And throw the hull in the bathtub just to have an idea how much ballast will be needed.

Saw this somewhere: "The first 80% of the job usually take me 80% of the time; the last 20% take me another 80%."
There's a lot of truth in that !  :D
: Re: Robin Odin Build
: model tugman March 01, 2014, 03:50:44
 ^-^  Very nice work indeed   :)
: Re: Robin Odin Build
: Calimero March 01, 2014, 05:48:26
Thanks !

Quick question: how do you call the "arch" above the main winch which - I assume - is there to prevent tow line from getting entangled in the winch ?
: Re: Robin Odin Build
: model tugman March 01, 2014, 10:59:19
Hi. Here on the Thames we call them. Towbows.  Geo
: Re: Robin Odin Build
: meechingman March 03, 2014, 06:44:16
Also known as towing horses down here on the South Coast!
: Re: Robin Odin Build
: Calimero March 03, 2014, 18:28:49
So, tow bow or tow horses. Interesting !  :)

Here's an update for this weekend. Log 2014-03-02 (http://rc.noalia.fr/boats/odin/log20140302)

(http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140302/tn/superstructure01.jpg) (http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140302/superstructure01.jpg)
Mock installation of superstructure

(http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140302/tn/superstructure02.jpg) (http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140302/superstructure02.jpg)
Mock installation of superstructure

(http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140302/tn/fifi01.jpg) (http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140302/fifi01.jpg)
FiFi platform with servo

(http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140302/tn/funnel01.jpg) (http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140302/funnel01.jpg)
Funnel and smoke generator

(http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140302/tn/funnel02.jpg) (http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140302/funnel02.jpg)
Funnel and smoke generator

(http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140302/tn/mastlights01.jpg) (http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140302/mastlights01.jpg)
Mast lighting

Fire monitor

Fire monitor "drive" was set up. Monitor will only rotate left/right and will be at a fixed 45° angle (which should give best range). I'm a bit short on RC channels and elevation control would make the whole setup significantly more complex.

A simple L-shaped mouting bracked was made from scrap aluminium. It will hold a "slow" micro-servo and act as a bearing for the brass tubing.

This is a Turnigy TSS-9S "slow" micro servo originaly intended for flaps on planes. Rated speed is 2" for 60° (which is around 10 times slower than a regular servo). Full range is around +/- 40°.

A lever (actually a standard-size servo arm) was added to the brass tubing. Linkage was set up to get some "overdrive" (farthest hole on the servo arm; closest hole on brass tubing arm). Fire monitor will rotate around +/- 45-50°. This setup is much simpler and smaller than the original Robbe system which was based on two sprockets and a chain drive to get more than 180° of rotation out of a standard servo.

Around 100° of range is good enough for me and the slow servo gives "scale speed" instead of the characteristic "jitter" of standard speed servos.

Smoke generator

Smoke generator was test-fired: huge amout of smoke at max voltage (12V). Smoke has really strong smell ... Generator is hooked to dedicated ESC (cheap $5 Turnigy 20-amp brushed ESC) and will be controlled through a dedicated proportional channel (knob / potentiometer). Knob will set idling smoke output. Then through mixing smoke output will increase relative to throttle (both forward and reverse).

Could probably wire the smoke generator in parallel to the propulsion motor but I want to be able do adjust (and disable) smoke output hence the dedicated channel.

Two wooden beams (visible in pics above) will be glued inside the superstructure below the funnel. A small aluminium plate was added to the smoke generator. Screws (from the underside) will hold plate to beams. Smoke generator will be slightly tilted towards the stern to get smoke fluid to flow towards the "burner" (actually some hot wire around a piece of wick)

Smoke generator output is 1/2" (12.5mm) brass tubing while the real exhaust on top of funnel is 10mm. As seen on the pictures we currently have a 10cm 12mm inner-diameter clear plastic pipe on the smoke generator. A small 10mm inner-diameter piece of tubing (some sort mesh-like plastic tubing) will be fitted onto the top exhaust and will easily slide into the 12mm clear tubing allowing easy removal of the generator from the bottom. Still needs to be tested though ...

A diesel tug actually produces little smoke. There might be a puff of black smoke as the engine revs up but once at stable RPM, little smoke is visible. The white smoke/steam the generator outputs won't nearly match this. But I'll go ahead anyway because it makes the boat look livelier.

Miscellaneous

Small gangway lights and a floodlight (rear deck/winch areay) were made from some small plastic profile and "wide-angle" white LEDs.

Two notches were filed in the bulwark to accommodate the "tow bow". Will require small touches of paint.

Still no wheelhouse. Working on it in SketchUp...

Springer tug visible on some of the pics is of course the Sequana (http://rc.noalia.fr/boats/sequana/) which was painted over the same weekend.
: Re: Robin Odin Build
: Calimero April 05, 2014, 14:44:00
Build log 2014-04-05 : 3D modeling and printing of wheelhouse (http://rc.noalia.fr/boats/odin/log20140405)

As stated previously the clear plastic molded original wheelhouse was lost somehow during the 10+ years of storage at my parents' basement.

I decided to go the 3D printing route to build the replacement part.

While the shape of the wheelhouse is very simple, it still took some time to get the basic of 3D solids modeling to get something that would look passable.

3D model was based on measurements on the 1:1 plan supplied with the kit. I also used pictures of the Gruno V found online.

(http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140405/tn/grunov_01.jpg) (http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140405/grunov_01.jpg)
Gruno V

(http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140405/tn/grunov_02.jpg) (http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140405/grunov_02.jpg)
Gruno V

(http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140405/tn/grunov_03.jpg) (http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140405/grunov_03.jpg)
Gruno V

(http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140405/tn/grunov_04.jpg) (http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140405/grunov_04.jpg)
Gruno V

(http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140405/tn/grunov_05.jpg) (http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140405/grunov_05.jpg)
Gruno V. I really like this pictures as it show how "massive" tugboats actually are.

(http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140405/tn/grunov_06.jpg) (http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140405/grunov_06.jpg)
Gruno V

(http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140405/tn/wheelhouse_3d_01.jpg) (http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140405/wheelhouse_3d_01.jpg)
3D model

(http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140405/tn/wheelhouse_3d_02.jpg) (http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140405/wheelhouse_3d_02.jpg)
3D model

(http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140405/tn/wheelhouse_3d_03.jpg) (http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140405/wheelhouse_3d_03.jpg)
3D model

(http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140405/tn/wheelhouse_3d_04.jpg) (http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140405/wheelhouse_3d_04.jpg)
3D model

(http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140405/tn/wheelhouse_3d_05.jpg) (http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140405/wheelhouse_3d_05.jpg)
3D model

(http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140405/tn/wheelhouse_3d_06.jpg) (http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140405/wheelhouse_3d_06.jpg)
3D model

(http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140405/tn/wheelhouse_3d_07.jpg) (http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140405/wheelhouse_3d_07.jpg)
3D model

My model differs slightly from the real thing. To keep the design simple, the wheelhouse is actually just a half shell which is then mirrored into a complete structure.

It also lacks the slightly rounded shape of the front.

Once I had the 3D model it was time to print a prototype. I got my 3D printer a few days ago so I'm still new to it. I also only have PLA while I intend to print the part in ABS which has physical properties a bit more appropriate but is trickier to print.

Once your 3D model is ready you feed it to the slicing software that comes with the printer.

Based on your settings, the software will slice the model into hundreds of layers. The slicer can also add support structures under zones that would otherwise "float in the air".

(http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140405/tn/wheelhouse_cura_01.jpg) (http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140405/wheelhouse_cura_01.jpg)
Slice 355 out of 735

(http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140405/tn/wheelhouse_cura_02.jpg) (http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140405/wheelhouse_cura_02.jpg)
Raft and support structures

As you can see on the "sliced model" above I decided to print the wheelhouse upside down to use the ceiling as a good solide baseplate.

Support material (blue-green) is added by slicing software because printing "mid-air" is not possible. You can achieve so decent overhangs depending on the angle (45° seems the reasonable limit). A fine-tuned can even print straight lines above two centimeter gaps but the windows of the wheelhouse are too high and too wide to print unsupported.

And off to the printer ...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BM5Oa5pixQM

And now the result ...

(http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140405/tn/pla_print01.jpg) (http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140405/pla_print01.jpg)
PLA print

(http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140405/tn/pla_print02.jpg) (http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140405/pla_print02.jpg)
PLA print

This is actually my fifth print with my 3D printer. It took approximately 14 hours and 155 grams of PLA (including support structures).

Printing raft and support structures were obviously removed before pics were taken. Some quick deburring and sanding too.

The walls and windows look very decent. Some light sanding will be required but I think primer would even things out quite easily.

The steep taper to the ceiling - especially the corners - on the other hand don't look so great.

The tapered section (and the small rounded windows) were printed without any support.

Things to test/improve:

Final part will be printed in ABS (which I currently don't have hence PLA) which will probably also incure some tweaks.

Overall I'm happy with this print. I didn't know what to expect and it turned out decent. As with any technology there's a learning curve but so far even with my limited experience things are very decent.
: Re: Robin Odin Build
: Model Tug Man April 09, 2014, 03:40:55
Nice write up on the printing. Looking forward to the final product. What does the printer cost?

 cool

 cool
: Re: Robin Odin Build
: Calimero April 09, 2014, 14:25:52
Build log 2014-04-09 : Adding doors to the wheelhouse (http://rc.noalia.fr/boats/odin/log20140409)

Now that the basic shape of the missing wheelhouse has been modeled, time for additional work: doors !

Wheelhouse was also lowered by one centimeter (cut from the bottom) to get closer to scale size.

(http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140409/tn/wheelhouse_door01.jpg) (http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140409/wheelhouse_door01.jpg)
Wheelhouse with hinges

(http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140409/tn/wheelhouse_door02.jpg) (http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140409/wheelhouse_door02.jpg)
Hinges (X-Ray)

(http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140409/tn/wheelhouse_door03.jpg) (http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140409/wheelhouse_door03.jpg)
Wheelhouse with door

(http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140409/tn/wheelhouse_door04.jpg) (http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140409/wheelhouse_door04.jpg)
Door

(http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140409/tn/wheelhouse_door06.jpg) (http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140409/wheelhouse_door06.jpg)
Door section showing hinge shape

(http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140409/tn/wheelhouse_door05.jpg) (http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140409/wheelhouse_door05.jpg)
Test "wall"

(http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140409/tn/wheelhouse_door07.jpg) (http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140409/wheelhouse_door07.jpg)
Test print: Door on test "wall"

(http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140409/tn/wheelhouse_door08.jpg) (http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140409/wheelhouse_door08.jpg)
Door and test rig : pivot pins are bits cut from a paperclip

The holes in the hinges accomodating the pivot pins were actually printed and not drilled.

Just had to wiggle the pins in and that's it. Door was deburred with a box cutter. Would require some sanding or "polishing" with a Dremel it I were to use it but it is already very useable.

Might have to come up with a functional door handle or some kind of mechanism to keep the door closed although the hinges offer some frinction and prevent the door from flapping.

I haven't printed a new wheelhouse with hinges. I first have to think of the interior: panels, wheel and controls, ...

I'm thinking of just adding some brackets all around the wheelhouse (mid-height) on which I would then glue finished assemblies.

Need to get pics from late 1960s tugs interior. And keep in mind that there's the FiFi brass pipe going through the back of the wheelhouse down to the hull.
: Re: Robin Odin Build
: Calimero April 09, 2014, 14:43:24
Nice write up on the printing. Looking forward to the final product. What does the printer cost?

Let us not get distracted by those lowly aspects ...  angel

Well ... it ranges somewhere between "not that expensive considering how much they cost a few years back" and "totally unreasonable for just some RC boat parts". The Ultimaker 2 can be had for a bit over 2000 EUR.  :-X

If you're willing to play with your soldering iron and tinker with computers and electronics, good RepRap kits can be had for around 700EUR. And well made RepRaps can give you very nice prints too. Kits are not that complex to put together and there's a very active community willing to help you. There are even "build-parties" where experienced users help noobs get their printer together over the weekend.

Things are very busy at work but pay is much more comfortable than with my earlier jobs; the Ultimaker 2 was still within the somewhat acceptable range.

I've had an eye on 3DP over the last few years. 3DP makes "imagining" and "building" even closer. It is still far from perfect but I find the technology very interesting and watching the printer "grow the part" is somewhat fascinating.

To some extent electronic systems like Arduino or Raspberry Pi have the same effect: by abstracting "low-level issues", people with some basic programming skills can now build small systems (there are even plane, multicopter, car, boats... GPS-based autopilots !) without worrying too much about electronics and "the analog world". And again thanks to the Internet you can find tons of resources to teach yourself stuff.
And these things are remarkably cheap so that burning one won't be too bad.
: Re: Robin Odin Build
: Calimero May 14, 2014, 14:08:18
Build log 2014-05-12 : Detail work and wiring (http://rc.noalia.fr/boats/odin/log20140512)

I spent a few days at the shipyard my parents' to work on the Odin.

Now that most assemblies are "complete" a lot of time is spent on detail work.

(http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140512/tn/overall01.jpg) (http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140512/overall01.jpg)
Overall view - Mock installation of all assemblies. And Captain Peter inspecting.

(http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140512/tn/superstructure01.jpg) (http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140512/superstructure01.jpg)
Superstructure - With RHIB on its mount and life raft on launcher

(http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140512/tn/rhibmount01.jpg) (http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140512/rhibmount01.jpg)
RHIB mount - Steel rods from coat hanger and brass stanchions

(http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140512/tn/liferaftlauncher01.jpg) (http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140512/liferaftlauncher01.jpg)
Life raft launcher - Steel rods from coat hanger and brass stanchions

(http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140512/tn/mast01.jpg) (http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140512/mast01.jpg)
Mast with railing - Brass railings and other details

(http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140512/tn/waterinlet01.jpg) (http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140512/waterinlet01.jpg)
Water inlet - Drilled hull. Inlet came with o-ring and nut

(http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140512/tn/waterpump01.jpg) (http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140512/waterpump01.jpg)
Water pump - Installed as low as possible, right next to water inlet

(http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140512/tn/waterpump02.jpg) (http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140512/waterpump02.jpg)
Water pump - Installed on rubber dampeners to reduce vibrations/noise

(http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140512/tn/jsthx_6s_extension.jpg) (http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140512/jsthx_6s_extension.jpg)
JST-XH 6S Balancing cable

(http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140512/tn/jsthx_6s_parallel.jpg) (http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140512/jsthx_6s_parallel.jpg)
JST-XH 6S Parallel Y cable - One branch for mast/funnel; one for engine room/superstructure

FiFi, water pump

Fire monitor was assembled and painted. It was tested outside of the boat, pumping water from a plastic bucket. The filter (originally an RC car fuel filter) allows enough flow.

With the monitor at approximately 45° range is around 3.5 meters (12ft) which is probably slightly too much for a 1:25 scale model. I'll be able to get spectators and possibly ducks wet.  :)

A small aluminium water inlet was installed in the hull. Water inlet came with an O-ring and nut and is hence removable. Were it not watertight I would just have to glue it to the hull with Stabilit-Express.

Water pump is a gear pump and is quite noisy. As the pump is not self-priming it has to be installed as low as possible. A small piece of wood was glued to the keel, drilled with two holes. In order to reduce the amount of vibration and noise pump is installed onto the wood piece with rubber bushings.

Railing and metal work

I subcontracted all the railings to a contractor, my father. That's how shipyards work, right ?  :D

All railings (lower deck, upper deck, FiFi platform) are ready for installation. Railings were not soldered but just glued. Soldering railings can be challenging when installed in plastic parts which are quick to melt. Cyanoacrylate glue seems to offer decent strength. If it were to fail we would probably try and solder the railings.

The RHIB mount (or "basket") and the life raft launcher were made from bits from a coat hanger and brass stanchions that came with the kit.

Some deburring/sanding is still required but these can be considered done.

Oh and I learned the very existence of "life raft launchers" (which I had failed to notice on pics of the real tug !).

Wheelhouse

The wheelhouse I printed (http://rc.noalia.fr/boats/odin/log20140417) looks pretty decent but of course the base is off by approximately 5 millimeters ...  ::)

With my laptop running SketchUp and a pair of calipers I was able to create a precise model of the upper deck so that I'd be able to work on an updated wheelhouse which would fit perfectly.

I've already started working on the new design which will be a little less "boxy".

I also have to think about the interior: controls, radar screens, ... I got some instrument panel decals from CAP Maquette in my last order (which was mostly stuff for the Sequana (http://rc.noalia.fr/boats/sequana/)).

Probably going to print stuff based on pictures (I have yet to find ...).

Lights

Lights are split in six independent circuits:


Total number of LEDs: 21.

Lights are located either on the mast and funnel or on the engine room/superstructure.

As with other devices on board, LEDs will get power from the main 12V lead-acid battery.

Each LED has it's own resistor (either 560 ohms for white LEDs or 470 ohms for red/green/yellow LEDs.

An RCD3003 remote multi-switch (http://rc.noalia.fr/files/misc/docs/RCD3003.pdf) will allow remote switching with some flexibility.

These can be had for around $12-$20 on eBay (search: RCD3003 or "multi remote switch") or HobbyKing (http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__12615__Multi_Remote_Receiver_operated_on_off_Switch_.html) (although the one I got from HK seems to behave differently).

Board has a single 5-16V input and seven outputs (each max 500mA, combined 3500mA). A servo lead connects the unit to the receiver.

On the TX end a momentary switch is suggested although using a stick could work too. Only short "bursts" will have the unit switch (hence the momentary switch).

7 relays/outputs and only a single control channel, you may ask ? The board has 9 switching "modes". Actually 5 "momentary" cycles (power is on for 0.5sec) and 4 "constant-on" cycles.

Lights will run on one of the "constant-on" mode. Namely "Mode 6". Each press of the switch will turn on one relay. Once all relays are on, subsequent presses will turn one relay off.

That's obviously not as flexible as pure independent control but you can arrange something half decent.

We get the following sequence:

Deck lights: OK
Deck lights + Search light: OK
Deck lights + Search light + Underway lights: OK
Deck lights + Search light + Underway lights + Towing lights: OK
Deck lights + Search light + Underway lights + Towing lights + Restricted ability to manoeuvre : OK
Deck lights + Search light + Underway lights + Towing lights + Restricted ability to manoeuvre + Anchor lights: Wrong
Search light + Underway lights + Towing lights + Restricted ability to manoeuvre + Anchor lights: Wrong
Towing lights + Restricted ability to manoeuvre + Anchor lights: Wrong
Restricted ability to manoeuvre + Anchor lights: Wrong
Anchor lights: OK

One thing that won't be possible with that "cycle" is turning the deck lights off while keeping the navigation lights on.

If you look closely at the user manual (link above) you'll notice that some of the "modes" are actually the same (ie: power on relays one by one, power off one by one starting with the first one) but with different pin order. Which is quite stupid: you could achieve the same result by pluging the wires the way needed. Some of the modes could provide more complex patterns: turn 1, 2, 3 on, turn off 2, turn 4 on, turn 5 on, turn 1 off ...

Anyway at $15 you cannot complain too much. I might look into an Arduino-based custom board some day.

The switching unit will be connected to the Y/parallel connector shown above. One end will go up to the funnel/mast. The other will power lights on the engine room (namely: deck lights, search light, navigation sidelights, stern lights).

Mast / Funnel

LEDs were tested once more and soldered together (if applicable) on the small bread board at the base of the mast.

There's a flood light on the funnel (lighting up the towing hook and winch) which will connect to the same bread board.

Mast/funnel assembly is bolted onto the superstructure and is hence removable. I decided to use Lipo 6-cell balancing connectors (JST-XH). Wires are a bit thick (meant probably for 5 amps while LEDs burn just a few milliamps ...) but there's enough room to fit them in the funnel and they are really cheap ($0.50 per cable). I'll be able to easily unplug the mast/funnel lights.

A toolbox (vacuum-formed pard) was acetone-welded to the portside of the funnel.

An antenna was made from leftover small parts and brass wire. The upper backplates of the mast were glued with CA. Lower backplate will require fitting before it is glued in place. And we still need access to the breadboar to connect the last LED. I still can't understand why Robbe designed the back of the mast as 6 small plates instead of 3.  :-[

Next step is glueing mast onto the funnel with Stabilit Express and sanding it flush/smooth.

Then we'll solder the rear floodlight (funnel) to the breadboard at the base of the mast. Mast can then be closed down (with the last/lower backplate)

Engine room / Lower deck

Fake doors and steps were glued onto the engine room. Still some handles to build from brass wire.

Extra compartment at the front of the engine room was acetone-welded.

Gangway lights are all complete. Made from some ABS profile with LEDs. Some of the LEDs broke as pins were bent at a 90° angle. LEDs were tested at each step to make sure they were still working. Wouldn't want to glue a broken LED in place ...

LEDs are pretty bright. Most plastic parts had to be painted black (two to three coats) to make them opaque. Final color will be applied on top of those coats of black.

Wooden beams were glued to the underside of the engine room to hold the smoke generator. Beams were set with a slight downward angle towards the bow so that the smoke fluid would gently flow towards the heating element (wire coiled around a piece of rope that sucks up the fluid).

Next up ...

New wheelhouse design. Final print in ABS.

All main units are almost complete. Now it's mostly fitting, detailing, sanding, prep work before painting.

It is now becoming "critical" to think and plan a bit ahead, especially when it comes to painting.

Bulwark still has to be glued onto deck. Not sure exactly how. Stabilit Express has great bonding characteristics but is a pain to work with (working time : less than 10 minutes). Epoxy would be nice (anywhere from 5 min to 2 hours pot life !) but it just doesn't stick well on ABS. CA tends to be too brittle and sets in way too fast.

Next time we'll probably put the hull in the bath to find out how much ballast is needed. Plan calls for two 12 6Ah lead acid batteries. And two auxiliary batteries (1 for RX/servos, 1 for lights and other functions). I'll run it with a single 12V 10Ah battery. Just like on the Sequana (http://rc.noalia.fr/boats/sequana/log20140211) I think I'll use hook & look (Velcro) tape to hold small lead ingots.

A lot of blabbering and some lousy pics (courtesy of my cell phone), that's all you get for tonight !  ;D
: Re: Robin Odin Build
: Model Tug Man May 15, 2014, 04:30:05
When you are soldering material that is next to something that will melt consider using a heat sink to defer the heat.
: Re: Robin Odin Build
: Calimero May 15, 2014, 07:09:44
When you are soldering material that is next to something that will melt consider using a heat sink to defer the heat.

I was thinking of using a wet rag (or paper towel) to cool the base of the stanchions down. We'll see.
: Re: Robin Odin Build
: Model Tug Man May 15, 2014, 07:58:35
Place an alligator clip between the vulnerable area and the area you are soldering and the heat will be absorbed by the clip.
: Re: Robin Odin Build
: Calimero August 20, 2014, 17:53:35
Build log 2014-08-19 : Paint, lights, wiring ! (http://rc.noalia.fr/boats/odin/log20140819)

(http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140819/tn/bow.jpg) (http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140819/bow.jpg)
Bow - Wheelhouse and anchor windlass obviously missing

(http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140819/tn/side.jpg) (http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140819/side.jpg)
Side view - Fendering also missing

(http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140819/tn/stern.jpg) (http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140819/stern.jpg)
Stern view - Paint scheme is a blend between Gruno V and Taucher O. Wulf 5

(http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140819/tn/lights01.jpg) (http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140819/lights01.jpg)
Lights on - Minus wheelhouse search light (not installed) and anchor lights (turned off)

(http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140819/tn/lights02.jpg) (http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140819/lights02.jpg)
Stern view - Might need to make a tarp for the RHIB

(http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140819/tn/lights03.jpg) (http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20140819/lights03.jpg)
Port holes - Glazing yet to install

Lots of sanding, priming, sanding, priming, sanding, primine, masking, painting, maksing, painting .... Most of the paint looks half decent. Still have to practice more with those spray cans, especially on complex parts like the mast with lots of stuff protruding. Wider area are somewhat more forgiving.

Of course I only noticed that graffiti shops sell acrylic spray cans at a fraction of what I paid in those damn home improvement shops (3.50 EUR vs 10-12 EUR).
I'll give that paint-for-rascals a shot for my barge project.

A few changes/corrections along the way ...

The bread board for the LEDs in the mast had all ground/minus poles in common with the positive on separate circuits (with resistors). Of course my remote switch actually wires all positive poles in common and switches the negative poles. Had to swap everything out. That's probably the only drawback of LEDs: polarity.

Test you electronics and wiring at each an every step. Start from single units and then assemble them into groups, test again, and wire everything together and ... test again. Takes time but we were able to fix things that would have been much more painful to fix had they been detected later on.

Instead of one 12V 12Ah battery I'm going with two of them. That's a bit over 16lb of ballast. I'll probably have to add another 2kg of lead to trim her. I had to move the water pump 5mm forward so that the output hose (which goes to the FiFi monitor) wouldn't be squeezed by the batteries.

We noticed the smoke generator actually draws quite a lot of power (a little over 3.5Amps at full throttle which produces A LOT of smoke; around 3 Amps half throttle). Not really an issue with those two 12Ah batteries. Might have to check on the wires and the DB9 connectors used to connect electronics on the superstructure to the hull.

Next:
: Re: Robin Odin Build
: Calimero November 28, 2014, 17:07:49
Quick update as I'm working on the Odin this weekend

At last I got the 3D printed wheelhouse onto the deck.

(http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20141128/tn/wheelhouse01.jpg) (http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20141128/wheelhouse01.jpg)
3D-printed Wheelhouse - Handrails on top of wheelhouse like the Gruno V and Taucher O. Wulf 5

(http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20141128/tn/wheelhouse02.jpg) (http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20141128/wheelhouse02.jpg)
3D-printed Wheelhouse - Glazing already glued in and masked off

Still has to be primed/sanded/painted but it looks pretty decent.

Minor sanding so that it now fits snugly on the deck. No interior tough but this can come later.

Excuse the lousy cellphone pics.
: Re: Robin Odin Build
: dimtim November 30, 2014, 12:24:47
looking  good
: Re: Robin Odin Build
: Calimero December 02, 2014, 02:13:37
looking  good

Thanks ! I saw the video on your build topic. Looks lovely.

2014-12-01 : Wheelhouse paint, fenders (http://rc.noalia.fr/boats/odin/log20141201)

Lousy cellphone pics again as I hadn't brought my regular camera an tripod.

(http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20141201/tn/odin01.jpg) (http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20141201/odin01.jpg)
Odin with wheelhouse - We're getting there!

(http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20141201/tn/odin_sequana01.jpg) (http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20141201/odin_sequana01.jpg)
Odin & Sequana - Sequana had some paint done at the shipyard too

I barely had enough white paint left to paint the wheelhouse (including doors and roof) and the white stripe on the funnel. But again using the right spraycan nozzle for the job was crucial: first the standard nozzle to paint complex spots (window frames, handrails ...) and then a wide nozzle to cover large areas/finish.

Fenders were installed too. Bow and stern fenders were glued in place with 5-min epoxy. And it took me 2 hours (I'm that slow !) to install the 16 truck tyres all-round. They're Italeri 1:24 rubber tyres.
: Re: Robin Odin Build
: Calimero January 05, 2015, 08:17:13
The Odin was successfully launched yesterday. Weather was a tad chilly and there are a few kinks to iron out but overall very happy with her first time on a pond.

(http://rc.noalia.fr/files/misc/hny2015.jpg)

That's Happy New Year in French !

More details & videos coming ...
: Re: Robin Odin Build
: Calimero January 25, 2015, 05:15:36
I finally managed to edit the footage from launch day (http://rc.noalia.fr/boats/odin/log20150105).

(http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20150105/tn/cart01.jpg) (http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20150105/cart01.jpg)
Custom cart - Roll-on/roll-off cart

(http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20150105/tn/cart02.jpg) (http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20150105/cart02.jpg)
Custom cart - Single-operator (me!)


(http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20150105/tn/odin01.jpg) (http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20150105/odin01.jpg)
Odin at dusk -

(http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20150105/tn/odin02.jpg) (http://rc.noalia.fr/files/odin/20150105/odin02.jpg)
Odin at dusk

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ann71BNxslc

Still a few things to tweak or do but I'm glad that the Odin is finally on water.
: Re: Robin Odin Build
: olscuzbut January 25, 2015, 06:50:28
Very nice build Calimero and a great video.  Watch out for the environment police as I think your fuel injectors need some work.  lol.  A tug to be proud of.
: Re: Robin Odin Build
: robbe1973 January 17, 2017, 12:50:44
do you have the 3d file for the printer you can send me the plastic on my wheel house is fragile and will need to be replaced soon