Author Topic: Sun Tug Build.  (Read 35606 times)

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tugs53

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Re: Sun Tug Build.
« Reply #15 on: April 14, 2010, 06:40:46 »
Well Done!!

Great build thread...keep the info and pictures coming!! :) :) :)


...Cheers...
MIKE

tugnut

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Re: Sun Tug Build.
« Reply #16 on: April 14, 2010, 12:03:19 »
Looking good greg  :) :)keep pict coming
 john
john b

tugs53

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Re: Sun Tug Build.
« Reply #17 on: April 15, 2010, 21:54:41 »
Brilliant idea with the wiring and circuitry cool cool cool cool
MIKE

gregk9

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Wheelhouse update.
« Reply #18 on: April 16, 2010, 04:52:38 »
i have now managed to cut down and fit the 2 wheelhouse front side panels, bit fiddly due to it being made from 3mm and 1.5mm ply, careful use of both knife balde and file are called for here, but after leaving the glue to dry for 24hrs before continuing, worked well. I have now added some framing to all the wheelhouse window edges, especially as there were some nasty saw cut marks in the window corners that would be visible, not unless i filed out the window frames to take larger windows, but that may of gone a little too far size wise, so framing it is. I have cut down the side doors to height, as were too tall and used some of the offcut to make a drip rail to fit above the door.
The flying bridge has now had the teak floor boards cut, these were thin balse strips, pre painted with ronseal teak stain varnish. they have had one coat all over and will now get a second coat before finally glueing down on the deck floor. A final "3rd" coat will be applied once fully dried in place for added protection, due to the deck being fully open to the elements.
Best Wishes.

Gregg.
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gregk9

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hull attack
« Reply #19 on: April 17, 2010, 14:35:14 »
Well, being as such a nice sunny day, decided to get the hull outside and put the main bulkheads in.
 
Bulkheads didnt need much reprofiling to get to fit in correct places, along with forward "breasthook". I firstly bonded these in with stabilit express, then once cured, finished off with some P40 glass fibre resin & glass mix.
 
i did notice how thin the hull is, on the flatter sections midships, so applied an extra coat of glass fibre across both sides, as well as inserting a length of dowel rod in the ridge of the keel, purely for additional rigidity and strength.
 
I then did another trial fit of the main deck, then had a real laugh when I tried one of the 32 "pre cut/shaped" Bulwark ribs. they must be10mm too wide at the base and 12- 15mm too tall to fut under the rail!
 
me thinks the "rib set" must of been for another kit and Lesro put in wrong pack. I will however, when i re profile these, put some saw cuts in to the underside of the bulwark railing, allowing these ribs to be bonded "into", rather then just tuck under the rail, might be a stronger "fix" and not reply on the rail just "sitting" on top of the thin hull side wall.
 
have also "test fitted the propeller support/rudder support, drilled the main holes for the propeller shaft and checked motor position. I just need to  adjust the motor platform so it sits a little lower to get 100% alignment with shaft.
 
I will use the steam plant base for the battery pack base.
Best Wishes.

Gregg.
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gregk9

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Re: Sun Tug Build.
« Reply #20 on: April 17, 2010, 14:38:08 »
Few more closeup pics..........
Best Wishes.

Gregg.
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gregk9

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Rudder servo
« Reply #21 on: April 20, 2010, 14:55:22 »
Time ot do next stage of the build, rudder servo mount. I found a plastic servo mount in my spares box, but this is normally attatched via a sticky pad. now, not wanting to "test" the full strength of one of these pads, i decided to bolt the servo mount to the wooden bulkhead. i could of used screws, but being as the bulkhead is only 3mm thick, decided to use bolts instead. next problem is, if I need to remove/replace the servo mount again, I will be unable to get to the other side of the bolts, to stop them from turning so to speak, so I came up with this little and "cheap" solution.
I use brass bolts, so if you simply cut a small length of brass rod, or thick copper wire, you can solder this to the top of the bolt head "slot", forming a "T" head, so once the bolts are passed through the bulkhead, you can either simply firbre glass over and secure in, or for additional fixing, bend one of the "T"'s at 90 degrees, drill a small hole alongside the bolt head and pass the rod tip through before again, fixing/bonding to the panel. So i can then fix the deck floor fully and wont have to be nervous about the servo bolts working loose if I need to adjust or replace it in the future.
Best Wishes.

Gregg.
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lightshipman

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Re: Sun Tug Build.
« Reply #22 on: April 21, 2010, 11:45:06 »
Greg,
Thanks for your comments in my post, your boat is coming along fine, there are points of achievement in a boat build, you have reached one of mine by fitting the steering servo.
One thing I would do is make sure you have access to the steering gear after the deck is down, you need to be able to check for water ingress in the aft compartment, water has a habit of working up steering tubes, especially if there is a fair bit of power in the tug. Please don't take this as a critism, it may save you work later.
Andy
« Last Edit: April 21, 2010, 11:47:23 by lightshipman »
Keeping the Bristol Channel safe
Nav Aids Tender Skipper

gregk9

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Re: Sun Tug Build.
« Reply #23 on: April 21, 2010, 13:37:25 »
Thanks for your comments, I understand your concerns and thats why I have relocated the rudder servo forward, as it now sits inside the motor compartment. So rather than it sit in a seperate "box" with its own seperate cover. I can seal this cover off, as the compartment will contain nothing but a small amount of ballast, the propeller shaft runs clean through this compartment and exits in the motor room, so again, no risk of water ingress in to this space. This will be finally filled with epoxy resin, once ballasting is complete, as I already have a fair amount of wheel weights already stuck in there.
id sooner have a longer rudder servo rod, than a servo box filling with water off overwash off the deck! Thats why i moved the servo from original plans, as I can now fully glue down the hatch and remove that "nasty feeling" from my mind when I open the throttle up and see the stern drop deeper in the water .
Best Wishes.

Gregg.
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gregk9

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Re: Sun Tug Build.
« Reply #24 on: April 21, 2010, 13:59:34 »
I will also add a further water bulkhead just forward of the rudder, to prevent any water ingress going any further. there is already an access cover for the rudder control arm, so i can always pop that off to check for any ingress. Save to much building up in there.


Please keep all comments coming, i dont mind, in fact a fresh pair of eyes can often help, rather than hinder [or offend] afterall its far easier to sort thinsg out whilst something is still being built, rather than someone posting pictures of their "achievement" only for someone to spot a fault and then make suggestion about it.  thats why I like to post all Ive done on the forum and let others view it, thatway any bits can be spotted, like your kind self for example, this then allows thinsg to be sorted and resolved and all readers, let alone myself, "learn" from such.

Well thats the theory anyway.

Incidentally, anyone looking for  brass 2mm Id bearing bushes, try an "O"  gauge train shop, apparently their train axles are all 2mm, which incidentally runs same as some propeller shafts [on smaller boats]. bearings come in a bag of 25! and last bag I bought was a mere 3 !! now find same deal in a model boat shop, they'd be adding a zero on the end for 10.
Best Wishes.

Gregg.
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gregk9

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1st stage lighting.
« Reply #25 on: April 22, 2010, 14:54:55 »
Ive now finally cut the portholes out on the lower cabin block, So I can now wire up the led bulbs I fitted during construction. I wanted to give the effect of "low wattage bulbs" as no doubts so long as there was some form of light in a cabin, that was good enough, especially as showing too bright a light out of the portholes could be mistaken for something else  I think, So I used some "amber" led's, running off 12v, wont use too much power, or at least not as much as ordinary wheatgrain bulbs.
Once all tested, the internal wiring was secured with a hot glue gun. to keep the wiring secure, but visible, so I can still replace any blown led's at any time during the tugs working life.  yes, its ok fitting all these "toys", but I always prefer to think about replacing things when they fail, rather than shrug it off and sgive the  excuse, "it worked once, but blew" and not bother to get working again.
I think the effect is quite good and once the main wheelhouse/bridge is wired up with some brighter lighting and of course with the navigation lights [of which you should of seen my earlier post about using the copper strip] these will be fitted shortly, once I can get the deck fully seated on the hull to get correct angles for the forward nav light boxes, then show you all how the led's connect up without too much showing......
Best Wishes.

Gregg.
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tugs53

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Re: Sun Tug Build.
« Reply #26 on: April 23, 2010, 07:43:08 »
Brilliant :) :) :) :)
MIKE

gregk9

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Funnel
« Reply #27 on: April 23, 2010, 08:41:28 »
Ok, so I "believe" I've finally got the funnel to the painting stage [ he says hopefully!]. Ive not cut the vertical ventilation grilles on the upper sides [All thanks to a great little cheap replica of a dremmel and a minute router bit]. ive given the funnel a sanding [wet] with some fine 800 grit automotive bodyshop paper, to get a good level to paint on, allowed to dry, then have masked off the "red band" area, as I dont wish to paint the funnel completely black, then apply the red band, as if I did, the red band would show up a darker colour, so much preferring to paint on to a white primer base, to get best colour from the red, once applied.

Pics uploaded of funnel prior to paint, will update funnel again once all paint sorted on it.
Best Wishes.

Gregg.
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gregk9

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Re: Sun Tug Build.
« Reply #28 on: April 23, 2010, 08:48:47 »
Appologies, I hit "submit", before attaching the pictures!

Oh incidentally, after consultation with a, er "good source of information", the wheelhouse lighting will not be as "bright" as I'd mentioned, but I will endeavour to re create the light effect given by the electrical equipment, ie the radar screen and map table, so there will then be a green glow eminating from the radar set and a reddish glow from the map table. yes, I'd forgot that you would not have bright lights on in the wheelhouse and then "expect" the steersman" to be able to see through the windows. Tut tut, such an amateur I am, I'll never get my navy blue wooley pulley this way !
Best Wishes.

Gregg.
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model tugman

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Re: Sun Tug Build.
« Reply #29 on: April 23, 2010, 10:33:12 »
Hi Greg just had another thought for you, the red band on thr funnel is nearer orange than red ,

ATB Geo
Tugs are for life      George B