Author Topic: Rine/Rhone Pusher tug "Egrete"  (Read 29991 times)

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gregk9

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Parts list update.
« Reply #30 on: June 20, 2010, 07:54:07 »
I have recently recieved delivery of a pair of radar units for this build, supplied and speedily delivered by "MMB" who advertise on this site.
On opening the packet i find they are suitably mounted on their own pedestals, just like the originals fitted to the Egrete, but being a casr resin item, the pedestals are solid. I did think about simply cutting these off and replacing with a hollow piece of plastruct tubing, but decided to have a go at drilling the originals out, to allo a driveshft to rotate them [from underneath the floor].
I found drilling the cast resin fairly easy to do, providing you constantly keep withdrawing the drill bit and removing the resin swarfe before it builds up too much and causes the drill bit to sieze and break the resin moulding, so please be aware of this if attempting similar yourselves.

I will try driving the radar units via a "geartrain" method as several other methods used on similar models dont seem to last very long and have been steered away from using elastic/rubber bands, as the bridge deck does not have sufficient strength to take the strain applied by  this method. Please remember that the bridge/wheelhouse section does lift/lower, so I have a weight limit to keep near to, so cant over strengthen the deck area too much without putting it over on weight.
yes, I will be using a high torque/sail winch type servo for this operation mode, but its one area that will require some delicate balancing on the scales to get it just right.
Best Wishes.

Gregg.
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Umi_Ryuzuki

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Re: Rine/Rhone Pusher tug "Egrete"
« Reply #31 on: June 22, 2010, 19:30:40 »
Gizmozone, or some other similar shop may have a nice small
6mm motor and gear box you can use to run your radar.

 ;)

http://www.gizmoszone.com/shopping/agora.cgi?

gregk9

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Re: Rine/Rhone Pusher tug "Egrete"
« Reply #32 on: June 23, 2010, 12:33:41 »
Hi Umi,

many thanks for sending that site link, those micro motors look good and not too badly priced either, especially when you consider how much the gear train kits were going to cost me to run from both radar units, to a centrally mounted motor in the wheelhouse.
So, yep, "you dun gurde" my freind.

many thanks.
Best Wishes.

Gregg.
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gregk9

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Parts update.
« Reply #33 on: September 14, 2010, 06:50:36 »
I have managed to secure a couple of minature geared motors for the radar masts, they are 3v dc  and so small in dimensions i should have no problems fitting them vertically on the uprigth radar masts on either side of the main bridge. i had to watch the weight and operating mechanism for these as the main bridge is on a working "scissors" mechanism which raises and lowers the complete bridge and gantry deck. :)

I have also now purchased a couple of drive motors for the propulsion system. they are 6volt, but have 6:1 gear ratio units attached. I hope that these will give sufficient power/torque for the tug. If any of you have used these motors before, let me know if you think they will either "do the job", or should I look for something else with more power.

the tug is still at design stage/ parts aquisition stage at present, so no harm done if Ive got wrong bits so to speak. ;D
Best Wishes.

Gregg.
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gregk9

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Build pt1
« Reply #34 on: October 18, 2010, 07:57:45 »
Due to the Sun Tug build nearing a close, its time to kick this build up and get things going. Ok, so its like a bit of multitasking, but i'm not one for starting one build off and simply doing "one at a time", I much prefer the challenge and interest of multiple builds so to speak.

So, initial stage of construction was to check all the drawings, re check the sizes of ALL the plastic sheets I orderd for the construction, to 110% make sure they are correct size and thickness as this biuld does call for a lot of different thicknesses of plastic sheet to carry out the construction.
First stage was to cut out the two side hull plates, allowing extra plastic at the bows to allow for the slight raduis, same applied to the forward hull bottom, an additional 3mm was let in to the dimensions to allow for the upward curve towards the bow.

I have also cut  the angled strengtheners as recommended [60], but a few spares due to the width of the sheet now reveals 64 cut in all, but no doubts I will need more and I'm bound to fit more of these support plates than suggested.
Best Wishes.

Gregg.
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gregk9

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Build pt2
« Reply #35 on: October 19, 2010, 15:23:44 »
ive started to form the basic hull bottom together, placing some of the main strengtheners inside, along with all the triangulation pieces to add support where it needs it most [hopefully]. I have also added an extra bit. I have slipped in a piece of 1.5mm ply as a base section for the battery area, to help spread the weight of the power packs a bit more evenly, as this will reduce the need for too much plastic ribs and cross bars to do same job. I have pencilled in the centre lines for the props and motors, just as an "aide memoir", so i dont go sticking any cross strengtheners in their paths!
I will wait untill the rear rudder support plate and hull sides are fully fixed before dry fitting the drive train, so i know the hull is fully square and all the glue has set.  trying to check any of this now wont achieve much as the  hull is still very flexible and dont want to misalign anything in this one.
Best Wishes.

Gregg.
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gregk9

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Build pt3
« Reply #36 on: October 20, 2010, 13:53:22 »
Today has consisted of attaching the hull sides and bow plate, stern plate section. I differed from the original plans somewhat, but to basically strengthen areas where it could do with it! I have added some angled plates to the front bow corners, as well as adding a horizontal cross brace behind where the pusher posts will be affixed. Again, to add beef to the bow section when pushing barges and stranded boats in our club pool [ha ha].  I will be adding some more additional plates too, details to follow later. The stern rudder supports have been bonded in, ready to accept the pivot posts for the kort units, again swapped the original 1mm stern rudder plate for a 1.5mm one. hopefully this should prevent any warping under turn load, along with some additional cross bracing supports.
Best Wishes.

Gregg.
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gregk9

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1st water tank test
« Reply #37 on: October 24, 2010, 06:10:53 »
 So, the Pusher tug progresses. I needed to test the integrity of the basic hull before going any further, just so I know all the main joints in the hull plates are sound.  yes, I did have 2 minor leaks, just where the brush on liquid plastic weld hadn't run in to, but a quick dry and reapplication has repaired them.
Then on to an engine test, just to try out the geared motors and korts.  the motors sound sweet and the 60mm props running inside swivelling kort nozzles should see it able to handle most operations it may be called to task for.
I had to add a lot of ballast to drop the hull low enough in the water to submerge the korts, but this dead weight will be replaced as the build continues with the remaining structure, plus proper size 12v batteries, once I know what space i have available for them.
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0M9qRgaGlHE[youtube]
« Last Edit: October 26, 2010, 17:12:01 by tugs53 »
Best Wishes.

Gregg.
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gregk9

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Re: Rine/Rhone Pusher tug "Egrete"
« Reply #38 on: October 26, 2010, 15:18:49 »
So, after the first water test, I did find a couple of minor leaks, but "hey", were not all perfect ! [ha ha] it had occurred where the poly glue just hadn't quite run full length along the lower hull seams, but a quick dry off and re application, soon sorted this out.
The next stage was to add some vertical reinforcing struts along both sides of the inner hull. Firstly, to add strength to the hull sides to prevent buckling due to the upper hull weight and secondly, to form a solid platform for the deck, so the deck does not bow or flex once in place.
The rear deck section has also recieved extra strengthener bars at each join line of the angled sections that make up its angular shape. Again bit of "belt n braces", but I dont want to have to take this thing apart, due to split seams later on. id far sooner reinforce now and not have to do so later.
<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0M9qRgaGlHE" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0M9qRgaGlHE</a>
« Last Edit: October 26, 2010, 17:12:22 by tugs53 »
Best Wishes.

Gregg.
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gregk9

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Build pt4
« Reply #39 on: October 27, 2010, 14:37:54 »
Now that the pusher posts are firmly set in place, I have now constructed the cable roller sets. there are 4 of these set inbetween the pusher posts. I have alos decided to fit a motorised winch, to power 2 of the cables, so making it easier to hitch and unhitch a barge. YES, I will be having a "go" at making this tug work! I have found a nice suitable winch mechanism, complete with a combination set of gears so you can choose the best matching gear train to suit the rpm's desired for winching purposes, plus it means a nice cute small motor, as the gearing will do all the torque multiplying it needs. Its one of the MFA range, fitted with a 1.5v motor. All i really had to do was fix the drive gear securely enough so it does not slip on the metal drum shaft.
The winch in/out motoring will be controlled by a servo operating 2 micro switches, so will just use one throw of a joystick to operate.
Best Wishes.

Gregg.
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gregk9

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Build pt5
« Reply #40 on: October 29, 2010, 15:11:12 »
Construction has now begun on the superstructure and winch room, which as the original instructions mention, are basically 2 boxes, joined together under the wheelhouse/bridge.
Following the degin plans is easy enough, all the parts being flat plats, with cutouts for engine room grilles or windows. The holes drilled in the locations of the doors, so once the doors are fitted, you can still see through the perspex. I took the liberty to add some "cover panels" to the side plates, simply to add detail and interest.  the other points to note are there are 2 escape hatches located at the rear, either side of the winch room cabin.
Due to me alos wanting to fit a powered winch, I fixed the front panel of the winch room wall to the deck, thus allowing the winch cables to run through their allotted hawser ports, I then simply cut 2 sidewall pieces and glued them to the removeable superstructure, so once this is in place, the winch wall looks like one piece, plus gives the strength needed to operate the winches properly.
Best Wishes.

Gregg.
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gregk9

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Build pt6
« Reply #41 on: October 31, 2010, 03:35:47 »
Time to have a go at the twin funnels. the original details for these seem to differ, the plans show the funnels simply constructed from flat plasticard, but the actual description in text , goes on to say how the rear funnel vents are made, so much is left to your own design and imagination here, but I did decide to go for the "vented" versions, well it adds just that little bit more details to a somewhat bland looking object.
So the funnels were constructed as per the plans, the exhaust pipes were increased in diameter, for better effect and "looks" and I added the rear vents from some stock 4mm wide plasticard strip.
Best Wishes.

Gregg.
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tugs53

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Re: Rine/Rhone Pusher tug "Egrete"
« Reply #42 on: October 31, 2010, 14:03:08 »
Funnel vents are a great detail feature.

One of the plasic card manufactures makes a small scall model R/Road 'clapboard' sheet; which works great as well.
MIKE

gregk9

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Re: funnel vents.
« Reply #43 on: October 31, 2010, 16:07:30 »
Many thanks for the comments. I dare say that some manufacturer somewhere will produce a lot of things, useable by a lot of people, but i'm on a strict budget and simply cant afford much in the way of extras, so I personally make as much as I can out of bits I have in stock, plus by doing so, It also lets other members of the forum view what actually can be made from a bit of time and trouble. it adds to the challenge of the build in my books, just wait till I get to the stern anchor winches [ha ha].

I am currently desgining a lever operating mechanism to lower the bridge mast, as the cabin lowers down to the deck and vice versa. hopefully it will link up with the lift mechanism, but its still bits pinned on a board at the moment, but it will be posted on here in due course. I am 2 stages ahead in the build , as to whats on site, just to ensure all works 110% before it gets posted, even the mistakes get rectified, but not before posting them as well as i do prefer to post everything, that way others learn from mistakes too!
Best Wishes.

Gregg.
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gregk9

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Build pt 6 - rubbing strakes
« Reply #44 on: November 01, 2010, 16:40:40 »
The original construction details, calls for some 6mm square rubber strips, to be glued vertically to the pusher post faces [for obvious reasons]. But thinking a little further, why not put something similar along the sides of the hull? Especially to help protect both the thin plastic hull sides, but the paintwork too??
So, how to attach such, without it peeling off at the first nudge against the pool edge i ask myself.
Well, On a lot of boats the rubbing strake appears to sit inside a channel fixed to the hull side plates.  Ok, so how to do same?

I decided to attach 2 parallel 3mm thick plastic strips, horizontally along the hull sides, about 20mm above the waterline, so the rubber is not permanently immersed in water, but also at a heaight where it would be of assistance, when nudging barges and other vessels in due course of its called duties.

Square rubber eh?  yep, I thought about that too, well you can either source from a model supplier who deals with gliders, as its often used as a launching item, or if you want some thicker stuff, i went for a hunting shop, as they sell square profile rubber, for catapaults and managed to get some beefy 7mm square rubber, sold by the metre and reasonable priced too!


The pics below show the plastic rubbing strip guides in place, as once the rubber is bonded in, the glue will hold on 3 faces, to give better security, whereas originally, it would of only had glue on the back edge, against the hull!
Best Wishes.

Gregg.
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