Author Topic: Fiery Cross  (Read 10748 times)

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sea monkey

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Re: Fiery Cross
« Reply #45 on: February 10, 2017, 10:29:48 »
Looks great Kevin. Good to have you back.
Steve

Kev30

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Re: Fiery Cross
« Reply #46 on: April 25, 2017, 12:57:15 »
There's a few things on model tugs and you think to yourself how the hell am I gonna do that, the main funnel vents on this was one???
After speaking to my Dad about different methods as I wanted the vent open like the real thing and you can't get a 90 degree elbow in an open tube and my Dad suggested electro-plating it in copper, there's nothing in any modern magazines/books but delve into any old model making book HEY BINGO. I won't go into the full process but you make a section what you want to form in copper from lead and then its dropped into a copper sulphate solution and it has a electric current 6-12volt attached to it on the other terminal you attach a piece of copper you place both in a pyrex beaker and also its good to have a small motor just to keep the copper sulphate solution flowing around the beaker in doing this you don't have build up on one side of you pattern. The time it takes depends on the thickness you want to build up on the outside of your pattern once done profile and clean up and then with a blowlamp melt the lead out inside and then your left with a shell. The wooden elbow you see in the photo is my pattern which I then placed in a dental-plaster mould which then I formed the lead pattern from.
The photo's where taken today after I melted the lead out, hopefully I'll get a bit more done tomorrow.
Regards
Kevin

des

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Re: Fiery Cross
« Reply #47 on: April 25, 2017, 14:06:27 »
I've done a couple of exhaust discharge elbows using styrene tube of the appropriate outside diameter, by fabricating "lobster back" bends.  This is a similar technique as used on 1:1 boats.  They only take about 10 minutes each, plus painting.

Des.

Kev30

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Re: Fiery Cross
« Reply #48 on: May 24, 2017, 14:40:59 »
Well I managed to get a few hours on my model tug this afternoon and it was one of those jobs that I was dreading the ladders on the mast and not just one of them two of them?
Originally I was going to use plastic but with all the clutter attached to it relying on superglue was too risky especially with most of the bit that were going to be added being brass I set about making brass ladders.
In machining the brass strips (uprights) I used the same jig that I made to make the handrail stanchions which was just the job, as I worked out all the spacings to the required size and we were off.
Again members might look at this method and think, that's a real long winded way of making them but believe you and me I always think the same making various jigs but when you're in full throw of drilling various pieces of brass YEAH THIS IS THE METHOD and all the pieces are identical.
I used soft-solder paste to fix the ladder pieces  together and rather than a pencil blowlamp which is my preferred choice when using this paste I used a 80 watt soldering iron to apply heat rather than obliterate the jig for the second ladder which would of happened using a blowlamp. All in all this the ladders come out alright so the jig was well worth the effort, and with this hurdle out the way I'll keep you up to speed on progress. The scale of the model is 1:32 so that's the reason for the twenty pence piece to show how small the item is.

Regards
Kevin 

Kev30

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Re: Fiery Cross
« Reply #49 on: May 24, 2017, 23:09:57 »
Perhaps I should say when I said I used soft solder paste this is a substance that contains both solder and flux so you just apply to the workpiece on the joint and then apply heat, as some companies say it's soft solder paste and it's just flux. When everything get hot you just left with a small amount of solder in a nice fillet on the join/joint. I prefer to use a small pencil flame blowlamp when using this paste but like I said above without destroying the jig to solder the ladders I used a 80 watt soldering iron which was completely clean on the end so it just applied the heat and this way it saves a lot of cleaning up with small files.

Anyone looking for this solder paste I know of a few companies that sell it but I use a company here in the UK called Cupalloys  there website is: wwwcupalloys.co.uk  and there great for advice as well and attend most of the Model Engineering exhibitions.

Regards
Kevin

olscuzbut

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Re: Fiery Cross
« Reply #50 on: May 25, 2017, 07:13:57 »
Hi Kev,  your soft solder paste sounds like interesting stuff.  Does is have a brand name?  Would like to be able to get some.   Thanks
Norm

Kev30

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Re: Fiery Cross
« Reply #51 on: May 25, 2017, 14:20:13 »
Hi Norm
Drop an email to Cupalloys as I've used their solder paste without no trouble at tall and see if they can help, as i'm not sure if they feature it on their website.
Regards
Kevin

olscuzbut

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Re: Fiery Cross
« Reply #52 on: May 26, 2017, 07:42:36 »
Thanks Kevin.  Had a look at their web site.  Does it come in a "hypodermic type" dispenser?  That seems to be the only one I could find that might be what I want.
Norm

Kev30

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Re: Fiery Cross
« Reply #53 on: May 26, 2017, 13:25:02 »
Hi Norm. No it comes in a small pot as I bought some from them up at the Doncaster model engineering show a fortnight ago, if you email them as I know the soft solder is not shown/listed on their web-site.

Regards
Kevin

Kev30

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Re: Fiery Cross
« Reply #54 on: June 02, 2017, 11:45:18 »
All the brass bits all attached to the mast now it just leaves a bit of cleaning with a small file then it be sprayed using etching primer.

Regards
Kevin

olscuzbut

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Re: Fiery Cross
« Reply #55 on: June 03, 2017, 06:31:13 »
Wow!  Super clean soldering Kev. Very nice and detailed work.