Author Topic: PSV Lowland Prowler 1:70 Build  (Read 31615 times)

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Capt.Towline

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Re: PSV Lowland Prowler 1:70 Build
« Reply #60 on: February 20, 2019, 14:50:56 »
Some detailing added to the crane. Hydraulic hoses, lifting wire and hook block

Capt.Towline

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Re: PSV Lowland Prowler 1:70 Build
« Reply #61 on: February 20, 2019, 14:53:35 »
Handrails for monkey island made out of brass

Capt.Towline

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Re: PSV Lowland Prowler 1:70 Build
« Reply #62 on: February 20, 2019, 14:56:32 »
Brass rail fitted to aft bridge with styrene frame below to support grating (will fit the grating after paint job)
« Last Edit: February 20, 2019, 14:58:14 by Capt.Towline »

Capt.Towline

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Re: PSV Lowland Prowler 1:70 Build
« Reply #63 on: March 20, 2019, 07:41:18 »
The accommodation superstructure is now almost complete. Handrails and ladders added. I remade the aft bridge external walkway/platform as I wasnít happy with my first effort.
External stairways added.
Funnels completed.
Some signage included.
Radars in place. The one on the stbd side works with a 6v geared micromotor but itís quite noisy...has anyone had similar issues? Might just need some soundproofing!

Iíve also fixed the lifeboats in their Davits to the structure but not shown in these pictures.

Still have some little bits and bobs to add; battery boxes, MOB buoys and ramps, compass binnacle, hose boxes etc then I can move onto the main deck and stern bulwarks.

Kev30

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Re: PSV Lowland Prowler 1:70 Build
« Reply #64 on: March 21, 2019, 14:03:16 »
Thanks for posting photos of your build and keeping us updated on progress.
Regards
Kevin

Capt.Towline

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Re: PSV Lowland Prowler 1:70 Build
« Reply #65 on: March 22, 2019, 04:55:12 »
YW Kev, nice to see a few more people on here again...itís been quiet! Would be good to see more projects on here too!

Capt.Towline

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Re: PSV Lowland Prowler 1:70 Build
« Reply #66 on: June 13, 2019, 07:31:08 »
Iím still plugging away!

Accommodation unit now Ďplugsí into the focsle deck.
Life rafts/Davits are fixed to the accommodation.
Iíve still got some detailing to add to this unit but nearly there.

Foremast is made up but still needs to be fitted/wired in; it carries the lower masthead light and forward anchor light.

Capt.Towline

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Re: PSV Lowland Prowler 1:70 Build
« Reply #67 on: June 13, 2019, 07:37:18 »
Iíve turned my attention to the bulwarks around the stern.

They are made up of styrene sheet and fixed to the deck plate; the whole of which can be removed for access to the inside of the hull.
Itís fixed down with 6 small screws, two of which will be built into the capstans as shown.

Capt.Towline

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Re: PSV Lowland Prowler 1:70 Build
« Reply #68 on: June 13, 2019, 07:43:33 »
There are two cut outs in the aluminium deck plate to allow access to the power switches and charging of the two batteries (1x 6v board and 1x 12v board).
These cutouts will be covered by removable deck cargo  containers.

The aluminium deck will eventually be covered with thin wood strips to replicate the wooden covering of the real deck.
« Last Edit: June 13, 2019, 13:01:15 by Capt.Towline »

Capt.Towline

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Re: PSV Lowland Prowler 1:70 Build
« Reply #69 on: June 13, 2019, 07:49:15 »
Below the deck there is a sound board in the lower part and power boards with ESCís for main prop motors and bow/stern thruster in the upper part.

des

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Re: PSV Lowland Prowler 1:70 Build
« Reply #70 on: June 14, 2019, 19:36:01 »
Nice job Cap'n T.  I like the double-stacked electrical gear panels and the neat wiring job.  How do you conceal the edge lines when the main deck insert is screwed down?

Des

Capt.Towline

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Re: PSV Lowland Prowler 1:70 Build
« Reply #71 on: June 15, 2019, 01:58:17 »
Thanks Des.
The double stack was the only way I could come up with to accommodate all the gear. Itís not without its issues; I canít adjust the sound modules output with the power board in place! And Iím currently getting some sound interference from the ESCís. We live and learn!

For the deck plate edges concealment:
Of course the real wooden deck area is laid onto the steel deck and is therefore raised so the forward end of the deck plate will have a fake securing bar for the timbers.
The sides take care of themselves because they run up to the inside of the crash rails.
A rubbing strake runs around the quarters and along the transom at deck level and by glueing this to the hull will create a slight well for deck plate to drop into; Iím not sure Iíve explained that very well but future pictures should clarify.
The white tape on the hulls deck is a soft sealant tape. Iím hoping that, with the deck screwed down, this will provide watertight integrity!

CT

des

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Re: PSV Lowland Prowler 1:70 Build
« Reply #72 on: June 15, 2019, 02:38:31 »
Yes - I thought that you'd use the deck sheathing to conceal the edge.  Unfortunately, I'm just starting a new build that won't have deck sheathing, so I'm looking for ideas in that area.  Or maybe I'll just install deck sheathing anyway, even though it wouldn't be strictly "correct".

The RFI could be coming from either the motors or the power switching devices within the ESCs - do you have suppression capacitors connected to your drive motors?  If not, try emailing Action - they sell them as a kit.  And if that doesn't work, try adding a layer of aluminium foil between your two electrical layers, and use another set of capacitors connected to the alfoil and the main power supply to the ESCs.

Des.

Capt.Towline

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Re: PSV Lowland Prowler 1:70 Build
« Reply #73 on: June 15, 2019, 09:25:32 »
Whatís you new build Des?
Depending on the external boundaryís of the deck is it possible to conceal the edges into the well deck or bulwarks.
Iíve seen various ideas by other modellers but itís difficult to decide how much access you give yourself and where the cutouts go.

I have suppression capacitors on the motors but thanks for the foil idea...Iíll give that a try. Iím pretty sure the interference is caused by the power switching in the ESCís.

des

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Re: PSV Lowland Prowler 1:70 Build
« Reply #74 on: June 15, 2019, 14:00:31 »
I was thinking again overnight about the foil.  Foil will do the job, but it's difficult to solder the wires onto, and a more physical attachment is almost impossible as the foil is not strong.  You may need to use a thin piece of aluminium sheet, drill a small hole for a screwed or bolted connection.

Des.