Author Topic: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter  (Read 49730 times)

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Tiny69

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Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
« Reply #30 on: April 15, 2013, 11:25:51 »
I have complied another short video showing the second stage of building the hull

<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=StJ5pmButfI" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=StJ5pmButfI</a>

Tiny69

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Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
« Reply #31 on: April 18, 2013, 11:03:18 »
The next stage of the hull construction will involve plating the outside. Using the information on the shell plating drawing I obtained from the University of Glasgow I started to draw out the plating lines onto the hull. First I marked the frame locations along the keel and numbered them from 0 through to 38. These can be seen in the photo below.

Starting with the Garboard Strake (A) nearest the keel I marked the widths and lengths of each plate and numbered them 1 to 8. The row of plates (A) and (C) are indicated as 'IN' on the drawing meaning that row (B) indicated as 'OUT' will overlap them both along each edge.

With rows (A) (B) & (C) marked out I decided to start cutting the plates for row (A) from white 240gsm cardboard. These plates are joggled either side of the keel and are butt jointed rather than overlapped. Using a mix of 50/50 white PVA glue and water giving creamy consistancy I glued the first two plates (A5) and (A6) in place.

I continued along both sides of the keel until all of row (A) was completed.  These were let to dry for a number of hours. The white PVA mix gives a smooth finish to each plate and protects the cardboard.

Model Tug Man

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Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
« Reply #32 on: April 19, 2013, 11:04:15 »
Looking good, Tiny.
VGJQ

Tiny69

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Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
« Reply #33 on: April 20, 2013, 07:45:05 »
Now I am going to work on row (C) of the hull plating. Using some tracing paper the outline of each of the plates was drawn out and transfered to the white cardboard.

With all the plates cut out for both sides I mixed some white PVA glue with water and started to apply plate number 1 at the stern. The glue was applied to the hull and then some to the back of the plate and placed in position. Then I applied some glue to the outside surface to soften up the cardboard to mould the plate to shape of the hull.

Working from the stern I glued each plate in place, one at a time, port side first followed by the starboard before moving onto the next.  Each of these plate are overlapped with the previous one as indicated on the shell expansion drawing. This can be clearly seen in the second photo.  All eight plates for row (C) are now in place so I can start to work on row (B) which over laps both (A) and (C).

Tiny69

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Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
« Reply #34 on: April 24, 2013, 07:40:02 »
I started working on row (B) by cutting the eight plates for each side from the white cardboard I have been using and then starting at the stern, glued them in place.

These plates over lap rows (A) and (C) by about 2mm.
« Last Edit: February 02, 2015, 01:00:44 by Tiny69 »

Tiny69

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Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
« Reply #35 on: May 05, 2013, 10:15:31 »
I have been working on the next row of plates, (G) around the stern. These plates extend above the raised deck so I have choosen to use 0.4mm thick brass sheet. The reason for this is strength and the handrails attach to the extended section above the deck. The first task was to make some card templates to the correct shapes that could be used to mark out the brass sheet.

The first plate (G1) was marked out on the brass using the template and cut out with some sharp scissors and sanded to take away the sharp edges. This plate needed bending to curve around the stern so I placed it on the back of a foam mouse mat and with a piece of 45mm diameter copper tubing, gently rolled it over the plate applying downward pressure to bend it. Once I was happy the plate was the correct shape I roughed up the back face with sand paper and glued it in place using two part epoxy resin and held in place with clamps and masking tape whilst the glue set.

The proceedure was repeated for plates (G2) to (G4) for both sides of the hull.  Plate (G4) is the first plate of the bulwarks so I had to cut out the wash port before gluing them in place.  Each of the plates was over lapped by 4mm as indicated on the shell plate drawing.

Tiny69

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Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
« Reply #36 on: May 13, 2013, 08:01:14 »
Update No. 29 13/05/2013

The plating of the hull has been continuing with row (F) which over lap the bottom edge of row (G).  Starting at the stern each plate has been cut from the 0.4mm thick brass sheet and glued in place.  I used some lead blocks to weigh down the plates whilst the two part epoxy glue set.  Any excess epoxy glue can be quickly sanded off the brass.

Tiny69

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Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
« Reply #37 on: May 18, 2013, 11:51:07 »
Update No. 30 18/05/2013

More work continuing on the next row of plates, (E). A change of material and back to the cardboard which is a little quicker to produce but using the same method of tracing each plate from the hull and transferring it to the cardboard. Also there is an added complication of the stern knuckle which the top edge of the plate bends around. The plates where cut with additional material to allow them to bend around the knuckle and then trimmed back later.  That just leaves row (D) to complete the plating of the hull.

Tiny69

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Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
« Reply #38 on: May 27, 2013, 05:40:50 »
Update No. 31 27/05/2013

This week I have been working on Row (D) of the plating. These plates are the last made from cardboard and over lap both rows (C) and (E.)  As usual I started at the stern tracing out each plate, cutting it out and gluing them in place one at a time.  Plate D7 has an unusual shape which allows for the protective belting below the waterline to be fixed in position. Another good reason to obtain the shell expansion drawing, because without it I would not have known about this detail.  The final plate D9 was positioned with a small overhang which can be trimmed back when the glue is totally dry. Now I can complete the final row (G) the bulwarks.

Tiny69

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Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
« Reply #39 on: May 31, 2013, 08:54:31 »
Update No. 32 31/05/2013

I have been working on the final row of plating, row (G) or more commonly known as the bulwarks. Starting with plate (G5) I marked and cut out the shape from cardboard to ensure the correct shape was obtained before starting to cut it out of the brass sheet. Next I covered the surface of the brass sheet with a strip of masking tape and using the card template I drew around it.  The plate was cut out, sanded to shape to remove the sharp edges and then I removed the masking tape and sanded the outside face smooth. It was then glued in place with two part epoxy.  Plate (G6) and (G7) have a washport in each so once I had cut the plate to shape I cut out the wash port hole using a small drill and then filling each to shape.  The last photo shows plates (G8) and (G9) glued and clamped while everything sets.

Thats all for now. Off on holiday for a week. Hopefully I will be able to rendezvous with the VIC 32 while I'm away.

Tiny69

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Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
« Reply #40 on: June 15, 2013, 10:33:28 »
Update No. 32  15/06/2013

I have put together another video showing all the hull plating on the hull now it is complete.

<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MvTFvL0MWGM" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MvTFvL0MWGM</a>

Tiny69

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Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
« Reply #41 on: June 23, 2013, 07:56:39 »
Update No. 33 23/06/13

With the plating now complete the next stage is to add all the exterior detail to the hull. I decided to start with the three rows of protective belting that runs down the side of the ship. From the shell plate drawing I marked the positions with a pencil. I then cut 150 long x 8mm wide strips of 40 thou thick plasticard and glued them in place with thick cyano.

The bottom row runs at an angle from the bow to half way up row E of the plating through the top of plate D7.

With the belting attached I moved onto the top of the bulwarks and added the edging using a 2mm half round section of styrene strip, again glued in place with cyano.

Tiny69

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Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
« Reply #42 on: June 23, 2013, 08:02:24 »
Update No. 33 continued 23/06/13

The washport support bars are cut from 1.5mm diameter brass rod and glued in place along the centreline of the vertical side of the opening. Along each side of the hull are three scupper tubes below the open washports. Firstly I marked out the locations and the drilled out the holes in the hull and deck.

Next I inserted a 3/16 diameter brass tube which was glued in place with two part epoxy. When the glued had totally set I filed each one flush to the hull and deck.

Tiny69

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Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
« Reply #43 on: June 25, 2013, 11:58:15 »
Update No. 34 25/06/13

Continuing on with the hull detailing I started to work on the stern deck by covering it with 20 thou thick plasticard. First I cut a template from cardboard to get the curved shape of the edge of the deck before transferring to the plastic sheet. The deck is in two halves cut down the centre line due to the sheets not being quite wide enough to cover the whole deck. The two pieces were glued to the plywood with a thin layer of cyano. With the deck in place I then glued a 2.5mm plastic angle between the deck and raised edge.

I repeated the process for the bow deck, first cutting a template and cutting out each half and gluing with Cyano.

With the plastic deck in place I then cut out the scupper tube holes with a 3.5mm diameter drill and filed to shape with a round file. The next stage I fitted the angle plate between the deck and bulwark using a 4mm angle styrene strip cut into 100mm lengths.

Tiny69

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Re: VIC 32 - Steam Lighter
« Reply #44 on: June 25, 2013, 12:01:48 »
Update No. 34 continued 25/06/13

To finish of the bulwarks I added the capping rail using a 3mm styrene angle positioned 1mm from the top edge and finished of with a 6mm wide strip of plastic glued on top.

The final photo shows the capping rail complete on one side and half complete on the other, due to the fact I ran out of 3mm angle and needed to get some more.

To allow the 6mm wide strip to bend around the shape of the bow I cut 3mm deep slots every 10mm along its length to aid with the bending. Once in place I filled the slots and sanded it flat.