Author Topic: Robin Odin Build  (Read 13101 times)

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Calimero

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Robin Odin Build
« on: January 10, 2014, 08:43:49 »
Hi everyone,


As I said in my first post, I've resumed the build of a Robbe Odin kit after a 15 year "delay".

The Robbe Odin kit is based on German tugboats built by Mützelfeldtwerft (Mützelfeld Shipyards) of Cuxhaven.

The closest surviving one I've found is the Gruno V (IMO: 6907171).

Also very close is the Taucher O. Wulf 5 (IMO: 6907169) from Otto Wulf (a Towing services company also in Cuxhaven). Both were built in 1968.

Model is in 1:25 scale. Around 110cm (42-43") long.

As my build won't exactly match either, I'll probably keep the "Odin" name (or maybe "Wotan", to keep a reference to the original model while changing it).

I went to my parents' (where the boat and workshop are !) mid-November to assess the situation and do some basic work but that was only a three-day stay.

When I came back in Paris (where I live), I took some "homework" with me: there's a hatch giving you access to the rudder servo. The hatch itself is molded ABS. But on top of it is a duckboard (not sure with the English term). Duckboard is basic (just small wooden pieces glued with cyano). And then some brass wire to top if off !

See attached picture.

Took me probably 20 hours overall to finish that assembly (damn it I'm slow). And it's far from perfect. Instead of soldering the brass wire (I feared the plastic hatch would melt) I cheated and used some plastic tubing as a "sheath".

I also painted the small rigid-hulled inflatable boat, a single injection molded part. Well actually if was more like : 20 minutes of painting, 2 hours of masking and then again 20 minutes of painting.

I spent Christmas and New Year's Eve at my parents'. I had almost 10 days I could dedicate to the tug.

Here's where I'm at ...

Hull and deck were assembled 15 years ago. It's an ABS hull. Anything above deck wasn't touched, back then.

Motor mount, rudder servo mount, propshaft, kort nozzle and other "lower deck" items where all installed/glued.

There were a few problems though.

The deck paintjob looked quite horrendous. I don't remember how we painted it. Probably with a paint brush. Both the color and the finish looked quite bad.
Back in November it was thus decided to sand down, prime and paint the deck.

Now, in December, I had just finished masking the hull to ready it for painting the deck when I noticed that the paint from the hull would actually peel off ....  It seems that we weren't much better painters below deck ....   :(

I scraped the old paint off the hull. It was done in as little as 30 min ... The hull was smooth as a baby's bottom. Obviously we hadn't sanded it, let alone primed it before painting.  angry

So we sanded the hull with fine grit paper. Then I primed it with plastic primer. Then I used universal primer (which is thicker) to "fill" / get a better surface. And then ended with the red hull paint.

I used acrylic based paints from Dupli-Color (spray cans) because they are easy to find, have a half-decent selection of RAL tones (I wanted "standard" colors) in satin/mat.

Boy the number of cans that were needed .... Spray cans can get you a decent finish but half - if not more - of the paint actually ends up on the floor and covering every surface from your painting area.
Dupli-Color offers different spray nozzles. Of course, I only decided to get their nozzles assortment halfway through the painting. The wide spray nozzle really helps when painting large surfaces like a boat hull.

And of course, when I bought the last two cans in Germany (my parents are 10 mi from the border, on the Rhine), I noticed if was 1/3 cheaper there ...

Anyway, the hull was painted. I now had to trace the waterline. Not so easy, especially at the stern. But using a wood block and a L-shaped metal "stand" I managed to get the right height for my pencil.
A good hour and a half to apply masking tape and I could then paint the freeboard black.

By then I had gone through a 50m roll of 50mm masking tape, and a 50m x 19mm roll. Ha ha ha !

I also decided to redo the paint on the bullwark: outside is black, inside is grey like the deck. Again, sanding, priming, painting, masking, more painting ...

I used or will use the following colors:
- RAL 7001 "Silver grey" : deck, upper deck, stairs to upper deck, rear hatch. A little darker that I thought but still good.
- RAL 9005 "black" : freeboard, bullwark, small parts. Well, black is black...
- RAL 9010 "pure white" : superstructure/engine room, wheelhouse, winches, radar
- RAL 3020 "traffic red" : hull, FiFi equipment. Maybe a little bright for the hull (for a 1960s tug) but I didn't want to use two different tints for the hull and FiFi equipment
- RAL 1023 "traffic yellow" : mast. I haven't tried it yet so I'm not sure how it looks.

I also got some small pots of Tamiya acrylic paint in similar colors for small touches and small parts (handles, screws ...).

I essentially spent a week to get back to step one: a painted hull. Yay !
It looks better know and the paint is significantly tougher. All in all, no really a waste of time.

In the mean time, my father had put together the engine room/superstructure. We still need to finish it but the base is ready.

I completed the winch assembly for the rear part of the deck. We decided not to make it functional. I probably wouldn't have much use for it. So it was mostly painting, a little soldering and so on.

Most of the deck equipment (anchor windlass and brake, rear/main winch, rear hatch) is painted/ready and just needs to be glued or screwed in place.

The bullwark is also ready to be glued in place. I just have to file two notches to get some clearance for the main winch.

Another thing we started is the mast and all the lighting. Of course, we replaced the supplied bulbs with LEDs. LEDs are not perfect as they are directional while a bulb can illuminate "all-round". I got some wide-angle leds (110° supposedly) and the result is very decent. Significantly brighter than the bulbs.

There will be 6 light "channels" or "groups":
- deck lights, maybe on in the wheelhouse
- searchlight (on the roof of the wheelhouse) with a more directive/brighter LED
- under way: masthead, stern light, side lights red/green
- towing in progress: two mastheads (yeah I only tow > 200m  :P), yellow sternlight
- restricted maneuverability : red / white / red
- anchor lights

I'll use a RCD3003 multi-switch. Not perfect but decent enough. If I really want more control, I'll probably look into a small Arduino board to do whatever I want with the lighting.

The basic wiring of the mast is done. Before we complete if, will glue all LEDs and wires in place. The lamps which go on top of the LEDs are painted (black, inside and outside to make them completely opaque).

We'll use JST-XH Lipo 6 cells balancing cables to route the lighting cables. Connectors are small and offer 7 poles (6 channels + Gnd), so that you can easily remove the funnel/mast, for example.


I also replaced the rudder servo (a good old Graupner C507) by a newer digital high torque servo. It's wicked fast. I've added some heavy 'exponential' to my rudder channel.

I've also been able to test my smoke generator, a "Super Smoker v4" I got from some nice chap in Australia. The smoke fluid is ... quite smelly (outdoor use only !). Produces huge amounts of smoke under max voltage. I know diesel tugs only output smoke for a few seconds when throttling up. And well, diesel smoke is black. But anyway, I think smoke is still fun.  ;D

Plus the smoker is hooked to an ESC. I can adjust the "idling" smoke with a knob on my radio. And I can mix it with the throttle to get more smoke when going full throttle. Very flexible.

The smoke itself will be installed right under the funnel, in the superstructure, with some 10 cm tubing to connect if to the actual engine exhaust.


Big issue currently: we've lost the wheelhouse. The wheelhouse was an injection molded clear plastic part. You'd just mask the windows and paint it white. We haven't recovered it despite intensive SAR efforts.  :D

With all the 3D printing craze these days I tought: hey ! why not look into this ?

I decided two nights ago to google things up. I had heard of the RepRap open source printer a few years back and It seems it has come a long way. I decided to try and 3D model my wheelhouse. Apparently one of the easiest software  for basic non-engineering modeling is SketchUp which is free for personal/educational use. I downloaded it last evening and tried to "extrude" a shape similar to my missing wheelhouse. Hint: never get into this as 10 in the evening when the next day is a work day ...

I've replicated the basic shape and just "cut out" two of the windows. See the attached view.

I uploaded it to sculpteo.com , a French 3D-printing ("additive manufacturing") startup. There systems automatically comes up with the price depending on raw material, colors, shape... Dang ! More than 150 Euros .... Ouch.

I went to the post office next to my workplace, one of the three French post offices that have experimental 3D printing capabilities. They're a partnership with ... sculpteo.com (surprise !) so I didn't expect much difference in pricing. But I got to show them my crude model and ask about the windows and other openings I needed. When there's a "hollow" part, the printer actually switches to a soluble "supporting" material. Once the part is complete, it is soaked with solvent to get rid of the "temporary" material.

Well, at more than 150 Euros, it is impractical at best. I'll try and see if there's a private RepRap owner willing to help, ha ha !

If 3D printing isn't an option, I would revert to my original idea: using polycarbonate/lexan (or styrene ?) sheets and bend them in shape. Fun times ahead.

Well all this reporting is a little dry. I forgot to take pictures. Will do some next time I go to my parents'.

See ya !

Model Tug Man

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Re: Robin Odin Build
« Reply #1 on: February 11, 2014, 07:20:09 »
Check out Shapeways for economical 3D printing:

http://www.shapeways.com/

VGJQ

Calimero

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Re: Robin Odin Build
« Reply #2 on: February 11, 2014, 11:19:17 »
Check out Shapeways for economical 3D printing:

http://www.shapeways.com/

Yep, I tried that too. More "printing" options (actually lots of different techniques) but pricing is close to Sculpteo.

Anyway, I'm working my way to a 3D printer. I might be able to print whatever I want. I'm playing with Sketchup and I have to try FreeCAD for the modelling part.

Interesting and unexpected side of my RC project. :)

Thanks for your help ! :)

Sudbury II

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Re: Robin Odin Build
« Reply #3 on: February 21, 2014, 15:39:13 »
How's it going?
"Suds"

Calimero

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Re: Robin Odin Build
« Reply #4 on: February 21, 2014, 18:30:32 »
Not much going on, as the tug's 500km from me (I'm working on my springer tug here in Paris, in the mean time). I'll probably go to my parents' next weekend.

I'm working in Sketch-Up to recreate the missing wheelhouse. Might have to give FreeCAD a shot as the solid/boolean operations are only available in the "Pro" version of Sketchup.

I'll take pictures, this time !

Calimero

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Re: Robin Odin Build
« Reply #5 on: February 23, 2014, 17:21:02 »
Well, as I miserably failed at taking pictures of my own Odin so far, here are some pics from the Robbe Catalog and from one of the two surviving tugs the Odin is based on (those I've been able to identify).

Model vs Real tugs


General view


Rear area with main winch


Propulsion - single 95mm prop with steerable Kort nozzle

Odin is essentialy a replica of the Gruno V (formerly Clara) which was built in 1968 by the Mützelfed shipyards in Cuxhaven in northern Germany.


Gruno V underway


Rear area


Side view


Gruno V underway


Front view


Gruno V at the ready

She is operated by Bijma a Dutch towing company operating in Dutch and German ports.

Here are the specs from Bijma's site:
Name Gruno V
IMO 6907171
Length 29.60m (97ft)
Beam 8.40m (28ft)
Draft 3.80m (12ft) / 4.20m (14ft)
Power 1000kW / 1360HP
Bollard pull 23t


The other one I identified is the Taucher O. Wulf V ...

Calimero

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Re: Robin Odin Build
« Reply #6 on: February 28, 2014, 17:49:10 »
I'm at my parents' this weekend to make some progress on the Odin and paint my springer tug.

Here are pics from work that was done back around Christmas.


Hull with new paint job


Stern with Kort nozzle


Stern with Kort nozzle


Bulwark on deck


Side view with bulwark


Bow with forward deck


Waterline at the bow


Waterline at the bow


Rear deck


Servo hatch cover


Non-functional winch


Winch


Rigid-hulled inflatable boat

Progress has slowed down as we're getting into detailing work: small lights, fitting the superstructure on deck, installing the smoke generator. There's also the FiFi equipment layout we need to work on. And throw the hull in the bathtub just to have an idea how much ballast will be needed.

Saw this somewhere: "The first 80% of the job usually take me 80% of the time; the last 20% take me another 80%."
There's a lot of truth in that !  :D

model tugman

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Re: Robin Odin Build
« Reply #7 on: March 01, 2014, 03:50:44 »
 ^-^  Very nice work indeed   :)
Tugs are for life      George B

Calimero

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Re: Robin Odin Build
« Reply #8 on: March 01, 2014, 05:48:26 »
Thanks !

Quick question: how do you call the "arch" above the main winch which - I assume - is there to prevent tow line from getting entangled in the winch ?

model tugman

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Re: Robin Odin Build
« Reply #9 on: March 01, 2014, 10:59:19 »
Hi. Here on the Thames we call them. Towbows.  Geo
Tugs are for life      George B

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Re: Robin Odin Build
« Reply #10 on: March 03, 2014, 06:44:16 »
Also known as towing horses down here on the South Coast!
Admiral of the Haven Towage Fleet

Calimero

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Re: Robin Odin Build
« Reply #11 on: March 03, 2014, 18:28:49 »
So, tow bow or tow horses. Interesting !  :)

Here's an update for this weekend. Log 2014-03-02


Mock installation of superstructure


Mock installation of superstructure


FiFi platform with servo


Funnel and smoke generator


Funnel and smoke generator


Mast lighting

Fire monitor

Fire monitor "drive" was set up. Monitor will only rotate left/right and will be at a fixed 45° angle (which should give best range). I'm a bit short on RC channels and elevation control would make the whole setup significantly more complex.

A simple L-shaped mouting bracked was made from scrap aluminium. It will hold a "slow" micro-servo and act as a bearing for the brass tubing.

This is a Turnigy TSS-9S "slow" micro servo originaly intended for flaps on planes. Rated speed is 2" for 60° (which is around 10 times slower than a regular servo). Full range is around +/- 40°.

A lever (actually a standard-size servo arm) was added to the brass tubing. Linkage was set up to get some "overdrive" (farthest hole on the servo arm; closest hole on brass tubing arm). Fire monitor will rotate around +/- 45-50°. This setup is much simpler and smaller than the original Robbe system which was based on two sprockets and a chain drive to get more than 180° of rotation out of a standard servo.

Around 100° of range is good enough for me and the slow servo gives "scale speed" instead of the characteristic "jitter" of standard speed servos.

Smoke generator

Smoke generator was test-fired: huge amout of smoke at max voltage (12V). Smoke has really strong smell ... Generator is hooked to dedicated ESC (cheap $5 Turnigy 20-amp brushed ESC) and will be controlled through a dedicated proportional channel (knob / potentiometer). Knob will set idling smoke output. Then through mixing smoke output will increase relative to throttle (both forward and reverse).

Could probably wire the smoke generator in parallel to the propulsion motor but I want to be able do adjust (and disable) smoke output hence the dedicated channel.

Two wooden beams (visible in pics above) will be glued inside the superstructure below the funnel. A small aluminium plate was added to the smoke generator. Screws (from the underside) will hold plate to beams. Smoke generator will be slightly tilted towards the stern to get smoke fluid to flow towards the "burner" (actually some hot wire around a piece of wick)

Smoke generator output is 1/2" (12.5mm) brass tubing while the real exhaust on top of funnel is 10mm. As seen on the pictures we currently have a 10cm 12mm inner-diameter clear plastic pipe on the smoke generator. A small 10mm inner-diameter piece of tubing (some sort mesh-like plastic tubing) will be fitted onto the top exhaust and will easily slide into the 12mm clear tubing allowing easy removal of the generator from the bottom. Still needs to be tested though ...

A diesel tug actually produces little smoke. There might be a puff of black smoke as the engine revs up but once at stable RPM, little smoke is visible. The white smoke/steam the generator outputs won't nearly match this. But I'll go ahead anyway because it makes the boat look livelier.

Miscellaneous

Small gangway lights and a floodlight (rear deck/winch areay) were made from some small plastic profile and "wide-angle" white LEDs.

Two notches were filed in the bulwark to accommodate the "tow bow". Will require small touches of paint.

Still no wheelhouse. Working on it in SketchUp...

Springer tug visible on some of the pics is of course the Sequana which was painted over the same weekend.

Calimero

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Re: Robin Odin Build
« Reply #12 on: April 05, 2014, 14:44:00 »
Build log 2014-04-05 : 3D modeling and printing of wheelhouse

As stated previously the clear plastic molded original wheelhouse was lost somehow during the 10+ years of storage at my parents' basement.

I decided to go the 3D printing route to build the replacement part.

While the shape of the wheelhouse is very simple, it still took some time to get the basic of 3D solids modeling to get something that would look passable.

3D model was based on measurements on the 1:1 plan supplied with the kit. I also used pictures of the Gruno V found online.


Gruno V


Gruno V


Gruno V


Gruno V


Gruno V. I really like this pictures as it show how "massive" tugboats actually are.


Gruno V


3D model


3D model


3D model


3D model


3D model


3D model


3D model

My model differs slightly from the real thing. To keep the design simple, the wheelhouse is actually just a half shell which is then mirrored into a complete structure.

It also lacks the slightly rounded shape of the front.

Once I had the 3D model it was time to print a prototype. I got my 3D printer a few days ago so I'm still new to it. I also only have PLA while I intend to print the part in ABS which has physical properties a bit more appropriate but is trickier to print.

Once your 3D model is ready you feed it to the slicing software that comes with the printer.

Based on your settings, the software will slice the model into hundreds of layers. The slicer can also add support structures under zones that would otherwise "float in the air".


Slice 355 out of 735


Raft and support structures

As you can see on the "sliced model" above I decided to print the wheelhouse upside down to use the ceiling as a good solide baseplate.

Support material (blue-green) is added by slicing software because printing "mid-air" is not possible. You can achieve so decent overhangs depending on the angle (45° seems the reasonable limit). A fine-tuned can even print straight lines above two centimeter gaps but the windows of the wheelhouse are too high and too wide to print unsupported.

And off to the printer ...

<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BM5Oa5pixQM" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BM5Oa5pixQM</a>

And now the result ...


PLA print


PLA print

This is actually my fifth print with my 3D printer. It took approximately 14 hours and 155 grams of PLA (including support structures).

Printing raft and support structures were obviously removed before pics were taken. Some quick deburring and sanding too.

The walls and windows look very decent. Some light sanding will be required but I think primer would even things out quite easily.

The steep taper to the ceiling - especially the corners - on the other hand don't look so great.

The tapered section (and the small rounded windows) were printed without any support.

Things to test/improve:
  • Print right-side-up
  • Add more material at corners
  • Manually add support struts instead of relying entirely on slicing software

Final part will be printed in ABS (which I currently don't have hence PLA) which will probably also incure some tweaks.

Overall I'm happy with this print. I didn't know what to expect and it turned out decent. As with any technology there's a learning curve but so far even with my limited experience things are very decent.

Model Tug Man

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Re: Robin Odin Build
« Reply #13 on: April 09, 2014, 03:40:55 »
Nice write up on the printing. Looking forward to the final product. What does the printer cost?

 cool

 cool
« Last Edit: April 09, 2014, 03:42:54 by Model Tug Man »
VGJQ

Calimero

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Re: Robin Odin Build
« Reply #14 on: April 09, 2014, 14:25:52 »
Build log 2014-04-09 : Adding doors to the wheelhouse

Now that the basic shape of the missing wheelhouse has been modeled, time for additional work: doors !

Wheelhouse was also lowered by one centimeter (cut from the bottom) to get closer to scale size.


Wheelhouse with hinges


Hinges (X-Ray)


Wheelhouse with door


Door


Door section showing hinge shape


Test "wall"


Test print: Door on test "wall"


Door and test rig : pivot pins are bits cut from a paperclip

The holes in the hinges accomodating the pivot pins were actually printed and not drilled.

Just had to wiggle the pins in and that's it. Door was deburred with a box cutter. Would require some sanding or "polishing" with a Dremel it I were to use it but it is already very useable.

Might have to come up with a functional door handle or some kind of mechanism to keep the door closed although the hinges offer some frinction and prevent the door from flapping.

I haven't printed a new wheelhouse with hinges. I first have to think of the interior: panels, wheel and controls, ...

I'm thinking of just adding some brackets all around the wheelhouse (mid-height) on which I would then glue finished assemblies.

Need to get pics from late 1960s tugs interior. And keep in mind that there's the FiFi brass pipe going through the back of the wheelhouse down to the hull.