Author Topic: Robin Odin Build  (Read 12527 times)

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Calimero

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Re: Robin Odin Build
« Reply #15 on: April 09, 2014, 14:43:24 »
Nice write up on the printing. Looking forward to the final product. What does the printer cost?

Let us not get distracted by those lowly aspects ...  angel

Well ... it ranges somewhere between "not that expensive considering how much they cost a few years back" and "totally unreasonable for just some RC boat parts". The Ultimaker 2 can be had for a bit over 2000 EUR.  :-X

If you're willing to play with your soldering iron and tinker with computers and electronics, good RepRap kits can be had for around 700EUR. And well made RepRaps can give you very nice prints too. Kits are not that complex to put together and there's a very active community willing to help you. There are even "build-parties" where experienced users help noobs get their printer together over the weekend.

Things are very busy at work but pay is much more comfortable than with my earlier jobs; the Ultimaker 2 was still within the somewhat acceptable range.

I've had an eye on 3DP over the last few years. 3DP makes "imagining" and "building" even closer. It is still far from perfect but I find the technology very interesting and watching the printer "grow the part" is somewhat fascinating.

To some extent electronic systems like Arduino or Raspberry Pi have the same effect: by abstracting "low-level issues", people with some basic programming skills can now build small systems (there are even plane, multicopter, car, boats... GPS-based autopilots !) without worrying too much about electronics and "the analog world". And again thanks to the Internet you can find tons of resources to teach yourself stuff.
And these things are remarkably cheap so that burning one won't be too bad.

Calimero

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Re: Robin Odin Build
« Reply #16 on: May 14, 2014, 14:08:18 »
Build log 2014-05-12 : Detail work and wiring

I spent a few days at the shipyard my parents' to work on the Odin.

Now that most assemblies are "complete" a lot of time is spent on detail work.


Overall view - Mock installation of all assemblies. And Captain Peter inspecting.


Superstructure - With RHIB on its mount and life raft on launcher


RHIB mount - Steel rods from coat hanger and brass stanchions


Life raft launcher - Steel rods from coat hanger and brass stanchions


Mast with railing - Brass railings and other details


Water inlet - Drilled hull. Inlet came with o-ring and nut


Water pump - Installed as low as possible, right next to water inlet


Water pump - Installed on rubber dampeners to reduce vibrations/noise


JST-XH 6S Balancing cable


JST-XH 6S Parallel Y cable - One branch for mast/funnel; one for engine room/superstructure

FiFi, water pump

Fire monitor was assembled and painted. It was tested outside of the boat, pumping water from a plastic bucket. The filter (originally an RC car fuel filter) allows enough flow.

With the monitor at approximately 45 range is around 3.5 meters (12ft) which is probably slightly too much for a 1:25 scale model. I'll be able to get spectators and possibly ducks wet.  :)

A small aluminium water inlet was installed in the hull. Water inlet came with an O-ring and nut and is hence removable. Were it not watertight I would just have to glue it to the hull with Stabilit-Express.

Water pump is a gear pump and is quite noisy. As the pump is not self-priming it has to be installed as low as possible. A small piece of wood was glued to the keel, drilled with two holes. In order to reduce the amount of vibration and noise pump is installed onto the wood piece with rubber bushings.

Railing and metal work

I subcontracted all the railings to a contractor, my father. That's how shipyards work, right ?  :D

All railings (lower deck, upper deck, FiFi platform) are ready for installation. Railings were not soldered but just glued. Soldering railings can be challenging when installed in plastic parts which are quick to melt. Cyanoacrylate glue seems to offer decent strength. If it were to fail we would probably try and solder the railings.

The RHIB mount (or "basket") and the life raft launcher were made from bits from a coat hanger and brass stanchions that came with the kit.

Some deburring/sanding is still required but these can be considered done.

Oh and I learned the very existence of "life raft launchers" (which I had failed to notice on pics of the real tug !).

Wheelhouse

The wheelhouse I printed looks pretty decent but of course the base is off by approximately 5 millimeters ...  ::)

With my laptop running SketchUp and a pair of calipers I was able to create a precise model of the upper deck so that I'd be able to work on an updated wheelhouse which would fit perfectly.

I've already started working on the new design which will be a little less "boxy".

I also have to think about the interior: controls, radar screens, ... I got some instrument panel decals from CAP Maquette in my last order (which was mostly stuff for the Sequana).

Probably going to print stuff based on pictures (I have yet to find ...).

Lights

Lights are split in six independent circuits:

  • Deck lights: seven gangway lights; one floodlight on the funnel lighting up towing hook and winch
  • Search light: one search light on wheelhouse
  • "Underway lights": red and green sidelights, two mast heads, one stern light
  • Towing lights: one masthead, one yellow sternlight
  • Restricted ability to manoeuvre: three all-round lights (red/white/red)
  • Anchor lights: two white all-round lights

Total number of LEDs: 21.

Lights are located either on the mast and funnel or on the engine room/superstructure.

As with other devices on board, LEDs will get power from the main 12V lead-acid battery.

Each LED has it's own resistor (either 560 ohms for white LEDs or 470 ohms for red/green/yellow LEDs.

An RCD3003 remote multi-switch will allow remote switching with some flexibility.

These can be had for around $12-$20 on eBay (search: RCD3003 or "multi remote switch") or HobbyKing (although the one I got from HK seems to behave differently).

Board has a single 5-16V input and seven outputs (each max 500mA, combined 3500mA). A servo lead connects the unit to the receiver.

On the TX end a momentary switch is suggested although using a stick could work too. Only short "bursts" will have the unit switch (hence the momentary switch).

7 relays/outputs and only a single control channel, you may ask ? The board has 9 switching "modes". Actually 5 "momentary" cycles (power is on for 0.5sec) and 4 "constant-on" cycles.

Lights will run on one of the "constant-on" mode. Namely "Mode 6". Each press of the switch will turn on one relay. Once all relays are on, subsequent presses will turn one relay off.

That's obviously not as flexible as pure independent control but you can arrange something half decent.

We get the following sequence:

Deck lights: OK
Deck lights + Search light: OK
Deck lights + Search light + Underway lights: OK
Deck lights + Search light + Underway lights + Towing lights: OK
Deck lights + Search light + Underway lights + Towing lights + Restricted ability to manoeuvre : OK
Deck lights + Search light + Underway lights + Towing lights + Restricted ability to manoeuvre + Anchor lights: Wrong
Search light + Underway lights + Towing lights + Restricted ability to manoeuvre + Anchor lights: Wrong
Towing lights + Restricted ability to manoeuvre + Anchor lights: Wrong
Restricted ability to manoeuvre + Anchor lights: Wrong
Anchor lights: OK

One thing that won't be possible with that "cycle" is turning the deck lights off while keeping the navigation lights on.

If you look closely at the user manual (link above) you'll notice that some of the "modes" are actually the same (ie: power on relays one by one, power off one by one starting with the first one) but with different pin order. Which is quite stupid: you could achieve the same result by pluging the wires the way needed. Some of the modes could provide more complex patterns: turn 1, 2, 3 on, turn off 2, turn 4 on, turn 5 on, turn 1 off ...

Anyway at $15 you cannot complain too much. I might look into an Arduino-based custom board some day.

The switching unit will be connected to the Y/parallel connector shown above. One end will go up to the funnel/mast. The other will power lights on the engine room (namely: deck lights, search light, navigation sidelights, stern lights).

Mast / Funnel

LEDs were tested once more and soldered together (if applicable) on the small bread board at the base of the mast.

There's a flood light on the funnel (lighting up the towing hook and winch) which will connect to the same bread board.

Mast/funnel assembly is bolted onto the superstructure and is hence removable. I decided to use Lipo 6-cell balancing connectors (JST-XH). Wires are a bit thick (meant probably for 5 amps while LEDs burn just a few milliamps ...) but there's enough room to fit them in the funnel and they are really cheap ($0.50 per cable). I'll be able to easily unplug the mast/funnel lights.

A toolbox (vacuum-formed pard) was acetone-welded to the portside of the funnel.

An antenna was made from leftover small parts and brass wire. The upper backplates of the mast were glued with CA. Lower backplate will require fitting before it is glued in place. And we still need access to the breadboar to connect the last LED. I still can't understand why Robbe designed the back of the mast as 6 small plates instead of 3.  :-[

Next step is glueing mast onto the funnel with Stabilit Express and sanding it flush/smooth.

Then we'll solder the rear floodlight (funnel) to the breadboard at the base of the mast. Mast can then be closed down (with the last/lower backplate)

Engine room / Lower deck

Fake doors and steps were glued onto the engine room. Still some handles to build from brass wire.

Extra compartment at the front of the engine room was acetone-welded.

Gangway lights are all complete. Made from some ABS profile with LEDs. Some of the LEDs broke as pins were bent at a 90 angle. LEDs were tested at each step to make sure they were still working. Wouldn't want to glue a broken LED in place ...

LEDs are pretty bright. Most plastic parts had to be painted black (two to three coats) to make them opaque. Final color will be applied on top of those coats of black.

Wooden beams were glued to the underside of the engine room to hold the smoke generator. Beams were set with a slight downward angle towards the bow so that the smoke fluid would gently flow towards the heating element (wire coiled around a piece of rope that sucks up the fluid).

Next up ...

New wheelhouse design. Final print in ABS.

All main units are almost complete. Now it's mostly fitting, detailing, sanding, prep work before painting.

It is now becoming "critical" to think and plan a bit ahead, especially when it comes to painting.

Bulwark still has to be glued onto deck. Not sure exactly how. Stabilit Express has great bonding characteristics but is a pain to work with (working time : less than 10 minutes). Epoxy would be nice (anywhere from 5 min to 2 hours pot life !) but it just doesn't stick well on ABS. CA tends to be too brittle and sets in way too fast.

Next time we'll probably put the hull in the bath to find out how much ballast is needed. Plan calls for two 12 6Ah lead acid batteries. And two auxiliary batteries (1 for RX/servos, 1 for lights and other functions). I'll run it with a single 12V 10Ah battery. Just like on the Sequana I think I'll use hook & look (Velcro) tape to hold small lead ingots.

A lot of blabbering and some lousy pics (courtesy of my cell phone), that's all you get for tonight !  ;D

Model Tug Man

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Re: Robin Odin Build
« Reply #17 on: May 15, 2014, 04:30:05 »
When you are soldering material that is next to something that will melt consider using a heat sink to defer the heat.
VGJQ

Calimero

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Re: Robin Odin Build
« Reply #18 on: May 15, 2014, 07:09:44 »
When you are soldering material that is next to something that will melt consider using a heat sink to defer the heat.

I was thinking of using a wet rag (or paper towel) to cool the base of the stanchions down. We'll see.

Model Tug Man

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Re: Robin Odin Build
« Reply #19 on: May 15, 2014, 07:58:35 »
Place an alligator clip between the vulnerable area and the area you are soldering and the heat will be absorbed by the clip.
VGJQ

Calimero

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Re: Robin Odin Build
« Reply #20 on: August 20, 2014, 17:53:35 »
Build log 2014-08-19 : Paint, lights, wiring !


Bow - Wheelhouse and anchor windlass obviously missing


Side view - Fendering also missing


Stern view - Paint scheme is a blend between Gruno V and Taucher O. Wulf 5


Lights on - Minus wheelhouse search light (not installed) and anchor lights (turned off)


Stern view - Might need to make a tarp for the RHIB


Port holes - Glazing yet to install

Lots of sanding, priming, sanding, priming, sanding, primine, masking, painting, maksing, painting .... Most of the paint looks half decent. Still have to practice more with those spray cans, especially on complex parts like the mast with lots of stuff protruding. Wider area are somewhat more forgiving.

Of course I only noticed that graffiti shops sell acrylic spray cans at a fraction of what I paid in those damn home improvement shops (3.50 EUR vs 10-12 EUR).
I'll give that paint-for-rascals a shot for my barge project.

A few changes/corrections along the way ...

The bread board for the LEDs in the mast had all ground/minus poles in common with the positive on separate circuits (with resistors). Of course my remote switch actually wires all positive poles in common and switches the negative poles. Had to swap everything out. That's probably the only drawback of LEDs: polarity.

Test you electronics and wiring at each an every step. Start from single units and then assemble them into groups, test again, and wire everything together and ... test again. Takes time but we were able to fix things that would have been much more painful to fix had they been detected later on.

Instead of one 12V 12Ah battery I'm going with two of them. That's a bit over 16lb of ballast. I'll probably have to add another 2kg of lead to trim her. I had to move the water pump 5mm forward so that the output hose (which goes to the FiFi monitor) wouldn't be squeezed by the batteries.

We noticed the smoke generator actually draws quite a lot of power (a little over 3.5Amps at full throttle which produces A LOT of smoke; around 3 Amps half throttle). Not really an issue with those two 12Ah batteries. Might have to check on the wires and the DB9 connectors used to connect electronics on the superstructure to the hull.

Next:
  • Wheelhouse printing and finishing
  • Bulwark installation
  • Fendering installation
  • Door handles/latches
  • Painting a white strip on the funnel (not sure yet)
  • Missing portholes and porthole glass
  • Ballast installation and trim
  • Deck equipment installation (anchor windlass; painted/ready to install ...)
  • Lettering and decals
  • Mast rigging
  • Building a cart/stretcher (almost worth a dedicated topic ...)

Calimero

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Re: Robin Odin Build
« Reply #21 on: November 28, 2014, 17:07:49 »
Quick update as I'm working on the Odin this weekend

At last I got the 3D printed wheelhouse onto the deck.


3D-printed Wheelhouse - Handrails on top of wheelhouse like the Gruno V and Taucher O. Wulf 5


3D-printed Wheelhouse - Glazing already glued in and masked off

Still has to be primed/sanded/painted but it looks pretty decent.

Minor sanding so that it now fits snugly on the deck. No interior tough but this can come later.

Excuse the lousy cellphone pics.

dimtim

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Re: Robin Odin Build
« Reply #22 on: November 30, 2014, 12:24:47 »
looking  good

Calimero

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Re: Robin Odin Build
« Reply #23 on: December 02, 2014, 02:13:37 »
looking  good

Thanks ! I saw the video on your build topic. Looks lovely.

2014-12-01 : Wheelhouse paint, fenders

Lousy cellphone pics again as I hadn't brought my regular camera an tripod.


Odin with wheelhouse - We're getting there!


Odin & Sequana - Sequana had some paint done at the shipyard too

I barely had enough white paint left to paint the wheelhouse (including doors and roof) and the white stripe on the funnel. But again using the right spraycan nozzle for the job was crucial: first the standard nozzle to paint complex spots (window frames, handrails ...) and then a wide nozzle to cover large areas/finish.

Fenders were installed too. Bow and stern fenders were glued in place with 5-min epoxy. And it took me 2 hours (I'm that slow !) to install the 16 truck tyres all-round. They're Italeri 1:24 rubber tyres.

Calimero

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Re: Robin Odin Build
« Reply #24 on: January 05, 2015, 08:17:13 »
The Odin was successfully launched yesterday. Weather was a tad chilly and there are a few kinks to iron out but overall very happy with her first time on a pond.



That's Happy New Year in French !

More details & videos coming ...

Calimero

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Re: Robin Odin Build
« Reply #25 on: January 25, 2015, 05:15:36 »
I finally managed to edit the footage from launch day.


Custom cart - Roll-on/roll-off cart


Custom cart - Single-operator (me!)



Odin at dusk -


Odin at dusk

<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ann71BNxslc" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ann71BNxslc</a>

Still a few things to tweak or do but I'm glad that the Odin is finally on water.

olscuzbut

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Re: Robin Odin Build
« Reply #26 on: January 25, 2015, 06:50:28 »
Very nice build Calimero and a great video.  Watch out for the environment police as I think your fuel injectors need some work.  lol.  A tug to be proud of.

robbe1973

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Re: Robin Odin Build
« Reply #27 on: January 17, 2017, 12:50:44 »
do you have the 3d file for the printer you can send me the plastic on my wheel house is fragile and will need to be replaced soon